ok, so as i have said before, my gsr burns oil like crazy but runs great. I can just about keep up to mustang gt's(97&up). So i think its the oil valve seals. The guy just replaced them before i bought it and im wondering if he put on in the wrong way or screwed up. Its only in one cylinder, all teh other sparkplugs are nice and tan, while the other has oil on it. But what i dont get is when ever i get in the high revs, theres a cloud behind me. I wonder if unburnt oil dripped down the exhaust and is burning since th eexhaust is hotter? The thing is i wouldnt mind replaceing them myself and i heard that you can get them off by using a air compressor screwed in the spark plug hole at tdc to pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves in place? and what is the most likley source of the burnt oil? like i always have to add a liter for every 2 tanks at least. Iv also tried oil additives but to no avail.

 

Another reason for burning large quantities of oil is bad piston rings, which create blow-by.

 

You will see more loss of oil from blown piston rings. Is the car smoking when idling or downshifting? That is a sign of bad valve seals since oil is being sucked through them. If the car is smoking while on the throttle, then you have bad piston rings.

I had the same problem with mine at full boost and it turns out that the rings were shot, not the valve seals.

 

I have nice compression though. What should the plugs look like then? everytime i pull them 1,2 and 3 are nice and dark tan but 4 always has oil on it. and it smokes when i start it up but goes away after a bit. I just dont want to fix the wrong thing. If its the rings, well i might aswell put sum forged cp pistons in since it costs the same amount for outfitting the curent pistons with a set of oem rings(around 100 bucks a cylinder before tax). So ya, its 150-200 bucks to do the valve seals if i dont do it myself, and teh piston deal i will do myself if it is the rings and thatll be like 600-700 bucks. Im still a student with little partime job so this is crucial i get the right parts fixed

 

but can i do teh valve seals myself w/o takin teh head off?

 

*bump

 

You won't want to do it without removing the head and cleaning it before installing a new set of seals and reinstalling the head.

When you remove the valve stem seals, they like to leave lots of shredded rubber laying on and around the valve guide.

It's also harder to remove the seals with the valves still in the guides since whatever tool you use will need to occupy the same space that the valve stem naturally resides in. The valve will have to slide down so you can get the stem seal pliers or stem seal slide hammer around the valve seal.

If you haven't irretrievably lost a valve down the guide yet, then you still have a really good chance of dropping a valve into the combustion chamber after the valve seal is removed since the seal is what holds the valve up when the springs are no longer in place.

And then there's installing a new seal....need I go on?

 

Ya the only reason i have doubt its not the rings is that the 4th cylinder always has oil in it and the valve guide seals were just done so i have the idea that an exhaust valve seal went and when you start the car up oit migh be in the cylinder or not depending if the valve was open or not, and the rest of the oil drips down the exhaust and when i start givin'er it burn the unburnt oil cuz of the hotter exhaust and higher revs. It also gets better the more i treat it hard. Like the first time i start it up and its warm, ill let it out and theres a cloud behind me, after that its not as bad but noticable. highway driving and such theres really no problem. and i think im running rich cuz my exhaust is black also, so theres always a mess on my bumper. Also whats the difference between burnt oil and rich exhaust? like th eblack soot on my bumper and muffler? How can i tell if its running rich so its just the carbon or if its burnt oil?

 

yes. pain in the ***, but it is possible.

 

*bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You won't want to do it without removing the head and cleaning it before installing a new set of seals and reinstalling the head.

When you remove the valve stem seals, they like to leave lots of shredded rubber laying on and around the valve guide.

It's also harder to remove the seals with the valves still in the guides since whatever tool you use will need to occupy the same space that the valve stem naturally resides in. The valve will have to slide down so you can get the stem seal pliers or stem seal slide hammer around the valve seal.

If you haven't irretrievably lost a valve down the guide yet, then you still have a really good chance of dropping a valve into the combustion chamber after the valve seal is removed since the seal is what holds the valve up when the springs are no longer in place.

And then there's installing a new seal....need I go on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the reason when i do the valve seal i take the head off. plus i dont want to take the chance of dropping a keeper...small damn things!. also to the poster have you checked your pcv system if its working correctly? also what about your spark plug o-rings that are in the valve cover, it may sound weird but they can cause oil to get on the plugs.

 

K but i just want to find out what the source is of the burning oil? like a leak down test costs 150 and the stem seal job costs 150. and teh rings like easily over 5-600.

 

What would the plugs look like if i was burning a liter or two a tank? If the compression is that good and even if teh oils rings is bad it shouldnt burn that much oil should it?