Hey guys, well I just ran a compression test on my 98 H22A4 with 120k on it and it shows 208-210-210-210 so im good there, but its consuming between 3-4 quarts per 3,000 miles. As to my knowledge and driveway im not leaking it, and when in heavy downtown traffic i do oil smoke pretty heavily... So with good compression can my oil rings still be damaged enough for 3 quarts, or what can my problem be?

I really need to solve this because this oil burning is getting a little dangeriuos if i dont check it all the time.

Once agian, i dont notice any smoke while driving 10mph +, but that just could be the wind issue, but i do get alot the more I sit and idle. let me know guys.. i need your help.

 

Sorry if this seems stupid, but Head gasket? Is it possible it is in your coolant?

 

No, my coolant is clean, and my headgasket would of showed during the compression test.

 

bump, any help guys? possible problems?

 

From my own experiences with the h22 , I've noticed that my motor consumed oil even though my compression was 225 across the board. I wouldnt worry about the oil consumtion it's common on h22's. 3-4 quarts are alot though for only 3k miles. When was the last time you did annual maintenance and a decent tune?

 

Every scheduled maintanence has been done according to the time or mileage dated. And I keep my car in tip top shape.. except for this oil problem.. what would be the best oil to use in this case also... And should i worry about the fact that I smoke like a chimney idling?

Because I do, and want it fixed, obviously its getting oil in there somehow, I just would really like to know where the hell could it be going... I dont like watching my oil stick every gasup and smoking all my fellow commuters out on the road, its embarrasing and definatly doesnt go with the look that im trying to achieve from my car..


bump

 

Oil control rings on the pistons. The reason your compression figures are a little high-range is the excess oil sealing the compression rings. The only other things that would contribute to this condition would be valve seals or sludge build-up in the valve train area causing oil to pool (not drain) from the head; thus overwhelming the valve seals.
Unfortunately, neither a Compression Test or a Leak-down test will pick up on either.

P

 

So should I just plan on rebuilding it, because thats what I have been planning, And just tear into it and do the do.. And then if my pistons look like **** Ill just pay the 133 at majestic honda and rering it, but i really need to fix this. So I guess the only real way to find it is to go into surgery, I was just hoping to know the problem before I tear her up, $ can really put a cramp on style sometimes. I see that 60+ people have viewed but so little posts, I need advise.. help guys!

 

When I ran 5w30 it consumed more oil , try using a thicker weight like 10w 30. How does your motor feel , is it strong? You said that when you get on it , it shoots black smoke right? If so black is usually unburnt fuel and blue is oil. What modifications have youe made? Also stated above , I would also perform a leakdown test to see if your valve seals are still good , if not that could be your problem.

 

Have you changed your PCV valve lately?

 

I agree that it sounds like a cylinder head problem to me. If your valve seals are leaking, they wold be pouring oil down into the cylinder on each intake/exhaust stroke. Like P-Adams said, the excess oil would be sealing off your rings, and giving those high compression readings. Then of course on the power stroke, you're burning all of that excess oil that's in the combustion chamber.

I've never seen a clogged PCV valve cause something as severe as that before, but a clogged PCV won't help anything.

I don't know that a leak down test will give any definite diagnosis either, because you have to do the leak down test with the cylinder in question at TDC on the compression stroke........of course the valves will be closed, so you still won't get an indication of leaking valve seals. If you do a leak down test with the cylinder in any other stroke, it will be redundant because at least one set of valves will already be open.

 

I get no black smoke at all, I never meantioned that. It runs good I guess, I can tell a slight foulness but thats probably because of all the oil. the PCV valve has been recently changed.. Like 6 months ago.. and so what would be the best way of going about this, taking it into surgery? Or trying to run some more tests before I crack her open.. it seems like doing a leakdown test wont help anything on my part since the engine still is in tact, I make sure to keep her lubed. I am using a thicker oil. As for modifications, I havnt done anything internal on the engine, Just I/H/E and the VAFC. So Im hoping none of that has contributed to this problem.. mainly worried about the VAFC, but it was professionaly tuned. For awhile I had my vtec set at 4300. But i recently moved it back to stock, which should help on the oil problem. At the begining of this tread I was thinking oil rings.. but this motor only has 120k on it so you guys have got me thinking the head, which is very possible. More info would be greatly appreciated!


Bump for info!

 

bump for info.

 

I have another bump for you in the form of a question. I get 240psi + or - 5 across the board.

Why is it that my numbers are so much higher then his?

As far as I know its a stock motor. I have about 145,000mi on the car.

Thanks
matt

 

good question....the only reason I can think of for really high compression numbers is that there is a large carbon build-up in the combustion chamber.....that would raise your compression ratio. Maybe try using some Sea Foam, and try the compresison test again.

For a 98 prelude, with a H22a4 Engine the nominal compression is 184psi, with a 29psi allowed variance. The minimum is 134psi. Obviously 240psi is really high.

 

Yeah, I think I'll skip the Seafoam. I feel I have too many miles to knock all that sealing gunk out of my engine.

Would this translate to 11:1 or is this number just wrong?

****... so the process goes?
1 remove the plugs, pull the ecu fuse
2 attach the gage
3 Turnover the car w/ the throttle open till the needle stops bouncing

Thanks
matt

 

Well US H22s should have a 10.0:1 ratio.......some JDM H22s have 11.0:1 though.

Sounds like you're doing the test right. You should usually have to crank it over between 4 and 8 times, to get a good reading.

 

bumped

 

Mine is doing about the same thing. If I run her hard in VTEC, it eats oil. I went on a 1 day mountain run and it used a quart that day alone (lots of hard driving though).

I do see what looks like some grayish-blue smoke (the best I can tell...some might be unburnt fuel too as it tends to run a little rich when I first get on it) come out when I get on it...

Compression checked in at 210-210-215-215 recently (10:1) and a dyno tuned to get 180whp (and that it's not getting enough air in and out but that's another story) on turbo cams (all mods listed in sig).

Car feels like it runs good though...

I have some questions though, why wouldn't leaking valve seals show up on the compression test? Why wouldn't it show on a leak-down test? What makes them to be considered leaking if they don't leak closed?

 

When you do either a leak down test, or a compression test, you're testing the ability of the combustion chamber to hold air. The only time you can build pressure within the chamber is on the compression stroke, when all valves are closed.

If you had a problem with the valves sealing, you would notice it in the leak down test, because you would be able to hear the air escaping the valves from either the intake or the exhaust side. The compression test works in the same way, the gauge only builds up pressure when the piston compresses the air in the combustion chamber.....again, both sets of valves have to be closed.

The valve guides, and seals are above the valve, around the valve stem. The valve seals stop oil from running from the valve train, down the valve stem. When the valves are closed, like on the compression stroke, if your valves are sealing ok, you shouldn't leak any air......but leaking oil could be building up behind the valves.

If your seals are leaking, the oil that is running down the valve stem, will flow into the combustion chamber while the valves are open. If there is enough of it flowing in there, it's logical to assume that it would raise your compression a bit. Then on the power stroke, the excess oil would be burned.....giving you nice blue smoke, and the cycle would begin again. Make sense?

 

try this, and you will know if your valve seals are done....

run the car for a while, get it good and hot....then park it, shut it off for like 3 minutes, then start it back up and rev to like 4k...if you puff a good cloud of white, your stem seals are gone, leaking a drip of oil onto the piston that burns off when you take off from idle or start the car...

 

Makes sense, thanks...

 

very usefull information finally. Thanks guys.

 

Welcome.

 

So HOndaJunkie or mgags7 say that my valve seals are gone.. What all would I have to replace to fix the problem..without trying to mod or fix anything else only the seals.. heres a link to the valve-rocker assembly, which parts would I need, and if not on the list feel free to redirct it on majestics website for me. http://www.hondaautomotivepart...R+ARM

i need to tally up a total parts price and know what to purchase so when I tear into my motor I am prepared for either way.. It definatly sounds like my valve seals which does make sense because of the way I used to drive with VTEC, then agian it could always be my rings, Ive already got a price/parts list for rebuilding my rings, but Id like to find out the parts Id need for the valve seals and whatever else.