LS/V parts list...suggestions?
I currently have a blown LS and im looking to do the ls/v swap instead...i've already got about half the parts but lemme know what u guys think of the list
-c1 *gsr* head port/polish/bored to match skunk2
-skunk2 stage 2pro cams/gears
-ARP rod bolts + head studs
- Cam seals
-p28 programmed w/ chrome + conversion harness
-Skunk2 Intake manifold
-AEM HF Fuel Rail
-Golden Eagle Vtec oil line conversion kit
-GSR head gasket
-Apexi VAFC
-NGK Plugs/Wires
-Skunk2 Valves/Springs/Retainers
-GSR Timing Belt
-ITR Throttle body
-ITR Fuel Pump
-*possibly pistons and rods...but most likely not*
-ITR Oil/Water pump
so for all u ls/v owners or just the knowlegable folk.....did i do good...if not...what else would i look into getting....i will be looking into turbo but not for a year or 2 down the road....so besides I/H/E i believe i got it all covered....yeaH?
-c1 *gsr* head port/polish/bored to match skunk2
-skunk2 stage 2pro cams/gears
-ARP rod bolts + head studs
- Cam seals
-p28 programmed w/ chrome + conversion harness
-Skunk2 Intake manifold
-AEM HF Fuel Rail
-Golden Eagle Vtec oil line conversion kit
-GSR head gasket
-Apexi VAFC
-NGK Plugs/Wires
-Skunk2 Valves/Springs/Retainers
-GSR Timing Belt
-ITR Throttle body
-ITR Fuel Pump
-*possibly pistons and rods...but most likely not*
-ITR Oil/Water pump
so for all u ls/v owners or just the knowlegable folk.....did i do good...if not...what else would i look into getting....i will be looking into turbo but not for a year or 2 down the road....so besides I/H/E i believe i got it all covered....yeaH?
why do you have vafc if you are using chrome?
I'd have the block looked at by a machine shop being that you have blown it. Get the crank turned and ballanced and linear bore the mains. I'd replace all the bearings in the bottom end and have the cylinders checked for cracks and make sure it doesn't need to be bored and get it honed to break in your new rings. Then once I get all the specs on your block get the internals. If your not going with aftermarket forged rods I'd get arp rod bolts for your stk rods (that need to all be checked by a machine shop due to the blowing or your engine), I'd also recommend getting either vtec pistons or forged pistons. If you plan on running stk ls pistons (I don't recommend) you have to enlarge the valve reliefs on the exh. side.
Remember to assemble your engine using plenty of assembly lube and please use a torque wrench and double and tripple check yourself on all specs. I dont have a stretch gauge too so I have to loosen and tighten the main and rod bolts 3 times before they are reay to go. Also use plasti gauge if you don't have mics and other expensive measring tools. And last but not least break your engine in with conventional motor oil I see too many engines broken in with synthetic and the rings do not seat properly, synthetic is too slick. OH and I reccomend oil press gauges.
I'd go more into detail but I gotta get back to work, hope this helps out some
I'd have the block looked at by a machine shop being that you have blown it. Get the crank turned and ballanced and linear bore the mains. I'd replace all the bearings in the bottom end and have the cylinders checked for cracks and make sure it doesn't need to be bored and get it honed to break in your new rings. Then once I get all the specs on your block get the internals. If your not going with aftermarket forged rods I'd get arp rod bolts for your stk rods (that need to all be checked by a machine shop due to the blowing or your engine), I'd also recommend getting either vtec pistons or forged pistons. If you plan on running stk ls pistons (I don't recommend) you have to enlarge the valve reliefs on the exh. side.
Remember to assemble your engine using plenty of assembly lube and please use a torque wrench and double and tripple check yourself on all specs. I dont have a stretch gauge too so I have to loosen and tighten the main and rod bolts 3 times before they are reay to go. Also use plasti gauge if you don't have mics and other expensive measring tools. And last but not least break your engine in with conventional motor oil I see too many engines broken in with synthetic and the rings do not seat properly, synthetic is too slick. OH and I reccomend oil press gauges.
I'd go more into detail but I gotta get back to work, hope this helps out some
to the first one....
i bouht the vafc before i realized i might as well just chip the ecu so...im in the process of selling that off....and i dont know about all the block work on such a minor build....seems amost unnecessary specially when i will be getting away from the n/a fairly soon and turboing the bitch. as for the second reply.... "power steerin????" i didn't know i would have anything different w/ my power steering if i were to go thru w/ a head change....haven't read that anywhere ....if u can elaborate on that tidbit a little more would be cool
i bouht the vafc before i realized i might as well just chip the ecu so...im in the process of selling that off....and i dont know about all the block work on such a minor build....seems amost unnecessary specially when i will be getting away from the n/a fairly soon and turboing the bitch. as for the second reply.... "power steerin????" i didn't know i would have anything different w/ my power steering if i were to go thru w/ a head change....haven't read that anywhere ....if u can elaborate on that tidbit a little more would be cool
to keep powersteering you need the top power steering to motor mount from a vtec engine and you will re-use the bottom bracket from the LS.
You should rebuild/beef up your bottom end on your ls/vtec especially if you plan on going turbo. But everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I personally don't like the idea of my valves bouncing off of my pistons and snapping the weak stk ls rod bolts when shifting at 8,500 rpms at 12psi. It's cheaper to do things right the first time.
You should rebuild/beef up your bottom end on your ls/vtec especially if you plan on going turbo. But everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I personally don't like the idea of my valves bouncing off of my pistons and snapping the weak stk ls rod bolts when shifting at 8,500 rpms at 12psi. It's cheaper to do things right the first time.
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haha....im assuming something like a bracket isn't too much to spring for when im spendin about 1700 total on everything....and as far as the block beef-up i've already got it setup for n/a as far as the valvetrain + cams + springs not to mention the rod bolts and head studs....so im covering my bases....but it's like another 2000 just to rebuild the block basically is what ur talking about.....i might as well just add it to the next project *turbo* and make this one a 2300 project and the turbo a 5000 project....i wish i had money
lol...keep the input comin
lol...keep the input comin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegbooster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I currently have a blown LS and im looking to do the ls/v swap instead...i've already got about half the parts but lemme know what u guys think of the list
-c1 *gsr* head port/polish/bored to match skunk2
-skunk2 stage 2pro cams/gears
-ARP rod bolts + head studs
- Cam seals
-p28 programmed w/ chrome + conversion harness
-Skunk2 Intake manifold
-AEM HF Fuel Rail
-Golden Eagle Vtec oil line conversion kit
-GSR head gasket
-Apexi VAFC
-NGK Plugs/Wires
-Skunk2 Valves/Springs/Retainers
-GSR Timing Belt
-ITR Throttle body
-ITR Fuel Pump
-*possibly pistons and rods...but most likely not*
-ITR Oil/Water pump
so for all u ls/v owners or just the knowlegable folk.....did i do good...if not...what else would i look into getting....i will be looking into turbo but not for a year or 2 down the road....so besides I/H/E i believe i got it all covered....yeaH? </TD></TR></TABLE>
you need to use a ls headgasket not a gsr one..
-c1 *gsr* head port/polish/bored to match skunk2
-skunk2 stage 2pro cams/gears
-ARP rod bolts + head studs
- Cam seals
-p28 programmed w/ chrome + conversion harness
-Skunk2 Intake manifold
-AEM HF Fuel Rail
-Golden Eagle Vtec oil line conversion kit
-GSR head gasket
-Apexi VAFC
-NGK Plugs/Wires
-Skunk2 Valves/Springs/Retainers
-GSR Timing Belt
-ITR Throttle body
-ITR Fuel Pump
-*possibly pistons and rods...but most likely not*
-ITR Oil/Water pump
so for all u ls/v owners or just the knowlegable folk.....did i do good...if not...what else would i look into getting....i will be looking into turbo but not for a year or 2 down the road....so besides I/H/E i believe i got it all covered....yeaH? </TD></TR></TABLE>
you need to use a ls headgasket not a gsr one..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you need to use a ls headgasket not a gsr one..</TD></TR></TABLE>
gsr head gasket will work fine. The GSR is used in the GE ls/vtec kit. I highly recomend this kit, makes the head conversion easy. It has all the hoses, tap, pancake, set screws, dowels, and head gasket.
you need to use a ls headgasket not a gsr one..</TD></TR></TABLE>
gsr head gasket will work fine. The GSR is used in the GE ls/vtec kit. I highly recomend this kit, makes the head conversion easy. It has all the hoses, tap, pancake, set screws, dowels, and head gasket.
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