Well, I was banging on the bolt to pop it loose and now it's fucked up! The castle nut wont even go back on. Can I just file it down and rethread it?

 

yeah sometimes that works, use a very fine file and try to trace the threads and if that doesnt work than clean up the threads and rethread it the best you can.

P.S. Next time use a pickle fork or a ball joint spreader the work great.

 

I had the fork but I decided not to use it because I was afraid it was going to rip the boot. Now, I have a bigger problem, it sucks! Anyways, thanks, I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

 

you f ucked up the balljoint. buy a new one.

yeah, and learn how to pop a balljoint off correctly.


Modified by Tyson at 5:43 PM 11/4/2005

 

ummmmm you dont bang on the end of the bolt to pop the ball joint. you smack the side of the lca on the pad area with the hammer. now you are going to have to get a new ball joint because of that.

 

Well thats one way to learn.

 

Dont worrym your not the only errrr, crackhead out there . I did it too. So rest assured your not alone. I will be getting a new LBJ this week as well as my outer tie rod ends.

But, its a project car, and the whole point is to learn. And thats what I am doing right now

 

I managed to bend some threads the first time I tried this, since the hammer method didn't work. I managed to file the threads to bite afterwards. The other way is to get a nut of that thread size, cut a notch on the inside (like a bolt die has), and pray that forcing it on fixes it while not crossthreading it. Otherwise have fun pressing the old one out and the new one in. Ball joints are cheap anyways.

The easiest way to dislocate the lower ball joint has to be the KICKING method. Jack the arm/knuckle up with a jack, insert & lodge a socket wrench (anything that will fit) in between the arm and knuckle DIRECTLY next to the boot, remove jack, then KICK the hub down. Someone had a vid, but when you think about it (that space gets smaller as the suspention goes down), it makes sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The easiest way to dislocate the lower ball joint has to be the KICKING method. Jack the arm/knuckle up with a jack, insert & lodge a socket wrench (anything that will fit) in between the arm and knuckle DIRECTLY next to the boot, remove jack, then KICK the hub down. Someone had a vid, but when you think about it (that space gets smaller as the suspention goes down), it makes sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is the absoloute easiest way to seperate the lower balljoint. For the other balljoints, I recomend this:

It's a "Tie Rod Lifter". They sell on ebay for $13, and you will never have a balljoint problem again. It's lever action keeps all damaging motion far away from the balljoint stud & boot...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The easiest way to dislocate the lower ball joint has to be the KICKING method. Jack the arm/knuckle up with a jack, insert & lodge a socket wrench (anything that will fit) in between the arm and knuckle DIRECTLY next to the boot, remove jack, then KICK the hub down. Someone had a vid, but when you think about it (that space gets smaller as the suspention goes down), it makes sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to have to try this next time, the picklefork isnt very friendly.

 

The pickle fork has ripped 3 out of the last 4 lbj's I've done so far. I'm going to refurbish the whole spindle/hub (or use EX's if I find them) this spring, so I don't mind much. Not only is that bind/kick method less damaging, but it's MUCH easier and takes much less effort.

That tie-rod lifter 94eg! posted is the one always shown in Helms, so I'll probably get one anyways. I'm always picking my *****...er, ball joints

 

all you need is this...



you hit the SIDE of the control arm, and it just pops off.

 

You forgot to add:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you hit the SIDE of the control arm (many many many many many many times), and THEN it pops off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

that depends, on either how stuck the balljoint is, or how limp your wrist is.

 

Fortunately ball joints are easy to replace. Time to invest in some snap ring pliers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fortunately ball joints are easy to replace. Time to invest in some snap ring pliers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am going to find out how much so this week/weekend. Cross your fingers