Buying a 4th Gen Prelude
I'll be buying a 4th Gen Lude to replace my EP3 during winter. What problems should I look out for when buying a lude, tranny, electrical problems, etc...? How much HP does the Si and SR ludes have (Canadian Model)? Sorry for the Noob questions. TIA
SR should be 160 me thinks.
Same as Si?
Also under the FAQ sections there was somthing about security - able to unlock passenger door with any key.
Same as Si?
Also under the FAQ sections there was somthing about security - able to unlock passenger door with any key.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StTook »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also under the FAQ sections there was somthing about security - able to unlock passenger door with any key.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not all 4th gens have this problem, I think that in the thread they came to a conclusion that it was just a problem with a few years of production like 94&95, but Im not positive on that. My 96 does not have that problem.
Many fourth generation preludes have idle problems, and also burn oil, so be careful of what you buy and remember that cheaper isn't always the better choice.
Also under the FAQ sections there was somthing about security - able to unlock passenger door with any key.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not all 4th gens have this problem, I think that in the thread they came to a conclusion that it was just a problem with a few years of production like 94&95, but Im not positive on that. My 96 does not have that problem.
Many fourth generation preludes have idle problems, and also burn oil, so be careful of what you buy and remember that cheaper isn't always the better choice.
Yeah mine doesnt seem to have the key problem - but maybe the previous owner corrected this, im not sure
Oil and idle seems fine - but time will tell i guess
when I got it, only 126000km on it
Oil and idle seems fine - but time will tell i guess
when I got it, only 126000km on it
They are generally not real problematic cars. I've owned 4th gens for four years, and I'm on my second one. I recommend them. 
Make sure the timing belt has been changed if it's got over 80k miles, and changed again if it's got over 160k. Certain things tend to go out on a schedule:
CV boots, ~130k miles
Water pump, ~130k miles
Brake cylinder, clutch cylinders, ~100k-120k miles
Just be aware of that stuff, and take a potential car to a mechanic for a diagnostic before you buy it.
Dan

Make sure the timing belt has been changed if it's got over 80k miles, and changed again if it's got over 160k. Certain things tend to go out on a schedule:
CV boots, ~130k miles
Water pump, ~130k miles
Brake cylinder, clutch cylinders, ~100k-120k miles
Just be aware of that stuff, and take a potential car to a mechanic for a diagnostic before you buy it.
Dan
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are generally not real problematic cars. I've owned 4th gens for four years, and I'm on my second one. I recommend them. 
Make sure the timing belt has been changed if it's got over 80k miles, and changed again if it's got over 160k. Certain things tend to go out on a schedule:
CV boots, ~130k miles
Water pump, ~130k miles
Brake cylinder, clutch cylinders, ~100k-120k miles
Just be aware of that stuff, and take a potential car to a mechanic for a diagnostic before you buy it.
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the reason why I am such a firm believer in swapping a JDM H22 in any 4th gen. It's a good way to freshen up the car since most have high miles/need work. You can replace ALL the maintanence items all at once and have a worry-free car for years to come.
That's only if you can afford it of course....which is another problem.
However, if you do it all at once, it will be the least expensive.
As for issues with the car, look for rust on the rear quarter panels on both sides (where the metal meets the rear bumper on both sides of the car).
Climate control is a big issue.
A/C
Those are the only common issues. Other than those, the car is well built.
I love mine and I am going to keep mine for the long haul.

Make sure the timing belt has been changed if it's got over 80k miles, and changed again if it's got over 160k. Certain things tend to go out on a schedule:
CV boots, ~130k miles
Water pump, ~130k miles
Brake cylinder, clutch cylinders, ~100k-120k miles
Just be aware of that stuff, and take a potential car to a mechanic for a diagnostic before you buy it.
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the reason why I am such a firm believer in swapping a JDM H22 in any 4th gen. It's a good way to freshen up the car since most have high miles/need work. You can replace ALL the maintanence items all at once and have a worry-free car for years to come.
That's only if you can afford it of course....which is another problem.
However, if you do it all at once, it will be the least expensive. As for issues with the car, look for rust on the rear quarter panels on both sides (where the metal meets the rear bumper on both sides of the car).
Climate control is a big issue.
A/C
Those are the only common issues. Other than those, the car is well built.
I love mine and I am going to keep mine for the long haul.
195hp is bullshit, its a 5th gen lude so they say, but there are no differances in the motor when they said it went form 190 to 195, it was some time during 97-01 that they said it had more, but its the same motor. A good way to check from problems is do a compression check, should be around 200 (in the h22 vtec that is) idk bout h23. But if its low, squirt oil in the cyl. if it goes up it has worn rings, if it stays the same its the valve seals (2 main reasons for oil burn). Other than that no problems. But do urself a favor, and get a vtec.
No the Si is 160 hp, VTEC model is 190Hp, I have the vtec. It's not very common so you have to go hunting for that VTEC model. Suggestions: IF your planning on Turboing your car get an Si (it has thicker internals and can handle boost), if not then get a VTEC model, when the Vtec kicks in, it pushes you against your seat!
My 95 has been very reliable to me. Needed a new control arm for 100 bucks, just a few minor things like that. I have 112k miles on it now. Bought it with 89K.
The rear quarters rust like crazy. You'll be hardpressed to find a Canadian one that isn't rusting back there. So keep some money handy on the side (which you should do anyways when it comes to used cars...) to get that taken care of.
The SR-V is the VTEC model in Canada. They have some nicer features like leather seats and stuff too, so that's another reason to get that model.
The rear quarters rust like crazy. You'll be hardpressed to find a Canadian one that isn't rusting back there. So keep some money handy on the side (which you should do anyways when it comes to used cars...) to get that taken care of.
The SR-V is the VTEC model in Canada. They have some nicer features like leather seats and stuff too, so that's another reason to get that model.
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