has any body changed thier catalytic converter because it was not letting vtec engage..im starting to have vtec problems meaning bogging..nothing to do with solenoid and oil (i checked that)can it be the cat? also i might try to run open header to see if thats the case, but i want to see if anyone has done this. Somtimes when i to kick on vtec it goes right in it without hesitaions and like 1 min later when i kick in it again it bogs in and out . Example (starting from a green light i go and it kicks in wonderful. i hit up the next stop light and i go to kick it in and it bogs n and out

 

Poll: Do you know what you are talking about?

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How can the cat have an effect on anything? Is your engine warm? Is your VTEC wired up properly? Are there any CELs?

 

yes vtec is warmed up no cel and yes its wired correctly

 

Are you sure you have enough oil? What engine and ECU do you have?

You also have to be going 20mph for VTEC to crossover.

 

the only way your cat would hinder performance is if its clogged. If that's the case, it would affect it whether its in vtec or not, and it would be slow all the time, not just sometimes. Have you checked your solenoid screen?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes vtec is warmed up no cel and yes its wired correctly</TD></TR></TABLE> sice when vtec needs to be warmed up?

I don't think it's your cat. Try some preventive maintenance.

 

b16a2 p2t ecu

 

maybe it's because you run 13's

it could be fuel related

 

ignore this expletive, its another one of those threads thats a joke, hes pullin everyone's leg.

how could he engage vtec himself? unless he made a switch, and if hes that smart, he knows that vtec engagement is not related to exhaust flow.

end thread cause this aint technical.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ADVAN EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe it's because you run 13's
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<FONT SIZE="7">HAHAHAHAHA!!!</FONT>

Anyways no the cat convertor won't affect VTEC.

Did you not just dissassemble the engine and install "Type R internals" recently?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1409055

Has the VTEC worked since then? It could be misinstallation of the rocker arms.

...that is assuming you really did tear the engine completely apart to build it.

 

this guy will never be able to make a post without it reminding me of that 13's EM1.
I recommend you check your oil levels, first

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ADVAN EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe it's because you run 13's </TD></TR></TABLE>


ROFL!


Can I see some pics of this Si you have, you do have one right?

And no I dont think the Cat will affect your vtec, maybe an O2 sensor would but i dunno

 

Thats the price you have to pay when you run a heavily modified car like yours. Hey maybe if you get a high flow cat you will run 12's

 

ya me and my friend use this sn (might change pass)..yes i own a si and so does he i just read how he posted his si is 13 second its not me..but anyways if u dont want to help its kool since he got flamed..but i wanted to know if it could invovle cat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya me and my friend use this sn..yes i own a si and so does he i just read how he posted his si is 13 second its not me..but anyways if u dont want to help its kool since he got flamed</TD></TR></TABLE>

I strongly suggest you start your own account and not piggyback from his SN, because no matter what you post it will not ever be taken seriously because your friend made a complete *** out of himself here and has zero cred here.

BTW:

Let's get a mod list of your EM1 and tell us what sort of dissassembly/reassembly the engine may have been subjected to, because VTEC problems can be very complex when trying to e-diagnose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Let's get a mod list of your EM1 and tell us what sort of dissassembly/reassembly the engine may have been subjected to, because VTEC problems can be very complex when trying to e-diagnose.</TD></TR></TABLE>Tricky bastard.

I can tell you he has a type r throttle body.

That's all i remember.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I strongly suggest you start your own account and not piggyback from his SN, because no matter what you post it will not ever be taken seriously because your friend made a complete *** out of himself here and has zero cred here.

BTW:

Let's get a mod list of your EM1 and tell us what sort of dissassembly/reassembly the engine may have been subjected to, because VTEC problems can be very complex when trying to e-diagnose.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i agree its diff then his setup.but now i took the car for a ride and im getting a cel its evap code? something in fuel lines?

 

Is the code a P1456, or a P1457?

Are you using a scan tool, or flashing check engine light trick?

The code could be as simple as a loose or leaking gas cap, or it could get complicated enough to have to pay a Honda dealership to use their super pricey Honda scan tool to diagnose and fix the pressure leak.

In any event EVAP codes rarely make the engine run worse.

The EVAP system is a sealed emissions control system that bascially makes OBD2 cars a pain in the ******* *******.

 

ya i think the pressure is messed up..i used a snap on scanner and i thought it was the gas cap. it was tight and i think i might have to take it to a honda dealership..how much u think it will cost for them to fix the leak?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the code a P1456, or a P1457?

Are you using a scan tool, or flashing check engine light trick?

The code could be as simple as a loose or leaking gas cap, or it could get complicated enough to have to pay a Honda dealership to use their super pricey Honda scan tool to diagnose and fix the pressure leak.

In any event EVAP codes rarely make the engine run worse.

The EVAP system is a sealed emissions control system that bascially makes OBD2 cars a pain in the ******* *******.</TD></TR></TABLE>

since u say its sealed for emissions..would this also cause my car to run rich?

p.s. thx for helpen me out ur right on the money..ill bitch slap my friend for u

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya i think the pressure is messed up..i used a snap on scanner and i thought it was the gas cap. it was tight and i think i might have to take it to a honda dealership..how much u think it will cost for them to fix the leak?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unfortunately if you replace the cap, clear the code, and you still have an EVAP system code you'll want to have a dealership diagnose and repair the problem.

Most dealers around here want $90.00 just to scan the ******* code!

My shop scans for free, but unless it's an obvious vacuum tee or line that's leaking I have no choice but to refer them to th Honda dealership because they have the baddest *** scan tool that pinpoints the problem quickly.

 

do u think i should buy the cap..seems fine but as u a stated it could be that..damn im pretty sure its the fuel line..

 

bahahah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Unfortunately if you replace the cap, clear the code, and you still have an EVAP system code you'll want to have a dealership diagnose and repair the problem.

Most dealers around here want $90.00 just to scan the ******* code!

My shop scans for free, but unless it's an obvious vacuum tee or line that's leaking I have no choice but to refer them to th Honda dealership because they have the baddest *** scan tool that pinpoints the problem quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

$90.00 in your town? crap we are charging to little at my dealership. we only charge $49.00 canadian to run the basic scan on the HDS. And people still bitch when they get charged for a loose gas cap. (even if we tell them before they come in to "make sure you gas cap is tight!")
Before you take it to the dealership, I would replace the cap and then clear the codes, if it comes back on, then take it to them. With the HDS we can pin point the problem down to an area but sometimes with an evap leak it can take some time. I have seen times when we had to drop the tank down to trace the leak. Either way good luck

 

how much would u estimate it would cost after a leakdown test run the code etc. i did buy a new oem honda cap and its tight..it just bogs..still