Okay guys i've tried pretty much everything to make my civic start. I checked every fuse in the car and any pugs that may have been missing. I bought a new starter and installed that, still nothing. Checked ground wires, all of them are good to go. Somebody help me please.

 

do the basic? check dizzy cap and rotor ? check for loose grounds and also check spar plugs?

 

oh i c u checked ground wires nvm

 

Okay I turn the key to II and everything comes on, radio, lights, etc. But when i depress the clutch pedal and turn the key i get no click from the starter, no sound period . I'm stumped

 

Okay i tried jumping the starter from the battery to the starter itself and got nothing so i'm guessing it's a bad starter, what do you think?

 

sound like your ignition switch or the clutch switch.

 

you cna test thew starter by taking it off the car and hooking it up directly to your battery with jumper cables.. if it comes up and spinds your good, if it doesnt then its bad, my starter went out one time and i had to do the same thing

 

just wondering, is your battery good?

 

yeah the battery is fine i just had it tested.

 

Fuel pump?

 

Okay here's the deal, the vehicle can be push started and it runs fine, i took the starter to Pep Boys today and it tested fine, i looked for every possible fuse it could be and all fuses are good to go. I have the whole dash out now looking for anything it could be. I am going with the clutch interlock switch though because if i turn to the key to II alll electric devices in the car work.

 

i had that problems and it was teh connection of the battery cables, try tightening them or beating them on and see if that helps...if not id go with the clutch switch

 

wow about time i see a post that i was thinking about posting...morphics i have the same exact problem with identical symptoms..what seems to work for me is i pump the clutch pedal while turning the key, then it just starts..now that i saw this post i'm starting to think if it IS the clutch interlock also..sounds like it...but please help becuz this is so annoying!!

 

I'm having the same problem. Mechanic is 95% it's the distributor.. I'll keep you guys posted to see if that's it.

 

test your clutch switch... just take it off the back of your clutch pedal and use a scs connector plug (one can be made by taking the female end off the bottom of your seatbelt connectors and wire the two wires together) and jump the wires, try to start your car... if that works, replace your clutch switch.... if it doesnt work, replace your ignition switch....

if your car runs when you push start it... and you've tested your battery, and starter, and all fuses are good... you either have

A. a Broken connection to either your starter, or clutch switch
B. a bad clutch switch
C. a bad ignition switch

i really dont see what else it could be

 

morphics and 95civhb..when this first started did you guys get shocked through your key??cuz the first week this all started(been going on for a month now) i got shocked hella times trying to start my car. but now it don't shock me no more. so yea tell me if you all got shocked too..

 

No that never happened to me, sounds to me like you have a short someone, probably near your ignition.

 

that was my initial thought but now it doesn't do that no more..now it just does what ur car is doing but mine starts...eventually.

 

I had a similar problem and it was my ignition coil and the ignition module try checking that first

 

the truth is imma lazy **** and don't wanna tear stuff up unless i have too..so thats why i'm just sittin here waitin for someone to say "hey i know what it is"..haha, yea just don't have the time so still waiting for anyone out there with "the answer"

 

Dude I have a 95 Ej1 I had the same problem last wekk cranks but wont spark plus no one wil be able to give you the 100% guarenteed answer without actually looking at your car and diagnosing the problem I had this same problem recently and I go to school for Automotive it that helps

 

mine don't crank tho...it just clicks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by muasboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine don't crank tho...it just clicks...</TD></TR></TABLE>


are you sure your starter is not bad?
try to test it out first see if it's working or not.

 

SEARCH DAMNIT.. there are like 2 topics on this everyday.. dont ask ?'s until you have actually tried something

Summers in full swing, and I see more and more "My car spins over, but won't start" topics here, and I expect that since summertime brings out the worst in electrical components for our Civics.
So you get in your car, try and start it, but it only spins over?

First of all these steps only apply for a car that has enough battery juice to power up the starter enough to spin the car over normally. If you've tried starting the car so many times that your battery is weak, find a jump box or cables and go from there.

The most common problem is the main fuel pump relay, and you do not have to do much to diagnose it.

1. Turn the key into the "on" position and watch for the check engine light to go out just as the third key chime beep beeps. As the light goes out you should hear a faint "clink" noise coming from under the dash on the driver's side (passenger side for EK Civics), near the hood release lever. If you hear no "clink" then you need a main relay. They cost maybe $60.00 new at Honda, and they are a snap to replace. If you're a cheap bastard and cannot afford a new one, it can be repaired with a soldering iron and some knowledge, but i'd just buy a new one.

So you hear the "clink" noise, but still no starting, eh?

Well now it's time to dig a bit deeper. you need to figure out if you're not getting spark or fuel. 99% of spinning over, but not starting problems are from either no fuel or fire. the other 1% is no compression, and that just isn't common.

1. Checking for spark.

Grab up a long screwdriver and pull one plug wire out of the cylinder. Stick the tip of the screw driver into the plug wire end far enough to make contact with the metal tab in the wire to the tip of the screw driver. Tilt the handle of the screwdriver so that you hold the shaft of the screwdriver near any metal surface - i use one of the valvecover hold down nuts. Have a friend (if you have any) spin the car over. If you see sparks between the shaft of the screwdriver and the other metal surface, then you have spark. If not, then you have a problem getting spark then.

2. If you have no spark then there are a few different parts that can cause this. *Usually* it is the ignition coil, loctaed inside your distributor. It is a little box with a spring sticking out of it with a goldish case around it, and it's held in with two phillps screws once you get your car and rotor out of the way. I don't know of any real way of checking one out of the car other than replacing it with a known good one. A lot of times the coil will have burn/flash marks on it if it's bad, or going bad. a new coil from honda is about $90.00.

3. The other common (but not as common as the coil) is the ignitor module. It is a flat plastic-looking piece inisde the distributor with a few tabs with wires hooked up to it. I believe it's also held in with a few screws. again I know of no visual cues that an ignitor is bad, so if you can get another, try it out. a new ignitor from Honda is also about $90.00.

4. Another blanket way to fix the no spark would be a good new distributor from http://www.distributorking.com. this way you get a new base with sensors, coil, ignitor, cap, rotor, etc. all for a little more than the cost of an ignitor or coil.

The last item that can cause spinning over, but not starting is the ignition switch pigtail assembly. When these go bad they typically allow the car to crank for a second, but then it shuts right back off. I diagnose these by simply cranking the car and backing off the key just enough to disengage the starter, but still be in the full "crank" position. If you let go of the key and it springs back into the normal position and the engine dies, you need a new ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion. do not confuse this with the entire ignition assembly with lock cylinder - it's just the electrical harness. These are pretty cheap, but a PITA to install.

Hope this helps some of you guys.

Now what if the main relay works, and you have spark, but still no starting?

Time to check for fuel, and it's easy.

Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen the banjo nut on top of your fuel filter, and have someone turn the key into the "on" position - he may not even have to try and spin the car over. If you get no fuel spray, then you are not getting fuel, and if the main relay is in fact working, it's time for a fuel pump.

The fuel pump is located in an access panel under your rear seat cushion. I personally would try and find a used Integra fuel pump or even a new one if you can afford the pricetag - aftermarket ones suck ***. I say Integra because it's an upgrade, especially if you can get a GS-R one.

 

yeah okay except mine doesn't spin over at all, nor does it start.