can you guys give me your input here. i have an ek with a ITR motor and was wondering the difference in HP#'s when turboing it to about 300-320 daily driving

vs

building the ITR motor for x amount of money and how much power would i be putting down?


im considering turboing it and i want it to be daily driving reliability. if i where to boost my plan is to reach 300-320. my mods' are i/h/e and AFC. please let me know wat you guys think.

 

well.... if u go turbo... u gonna have to expect parts and pieces to go out on u at some point of time... u will own on the street tho with a good turbo setup. if u want more reliability... maybe n/a is your route but i say go turbo. its soo much funner when spool kicks in.

 

i think 300-320 on a daily driver on stock internals is pushing it

 

all motor is fun, turbo funer, nice header & cam combo would be nice, i would not ruin a good R motor with boost, compression is a little high, but 300 whp is a realistic goal, on stock internals, if tuned well, it will last.

 

i know i probably wouldn't turbo the ITR motor....The compression is a bit high, but dont get me wrong..it can be done...but its definitely going to ahve to be tuned properly for it to last. i think you would be better off selling the ITR motor and going B20 turbo....or keep your head and do B20 VTEC turbo. The compression is a bit friendlier and you'll be able to boost a bit more w/o worrying about your compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodreamz0385 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think 300-320 on a daily driver on stock internals is pushing it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, 300 on stock internals... Ehhhh call me conservative, but you'll be pissed if you f*ck your ITR engine up!

But go turbo, of course!

 

keep the ITR motor the way that it was built for, N/A. If you want to turbo it, build it. Good luck with it man. OH ya i dont want to read in a couple of months a thread that goes like this..."Blew up my Boosted ITR Motor"

good luck with either way you go.

 

ITR was built for NA. If you want turbo, sell the itr and get a gsr (or any other B), it'll be easier and cheaper that way. Lower compression is good for FI, higher compression is good for NA.

 

the situation here is that i can spend say 3500 for mods goin N/A and how much HP will i be at honestly maybe 210..... give or take. and right now i am at a dead even race against my friends s2k. on numerous races. i can take a 350z all day. and i've taken a g35 coupe. there's not much eslse out there to go up against that's, that's not turbo.

now if i where to turbo it for say 3500 i'd be probably at about 290-310hp give or take. even though the ITR is built for N/A we are in a turbo erra. i know there's a few simple things to lower the compression such as a thicker gasket made by some company. but i would do it the proper way to prevent future headaches. give me your guys' input thanks.

i would DD it at 260HP or so

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RIPPO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the situation here is that i can spend say 3500 for mods goin N/A and how much HP will i be at honestly maybe 210..... give or take. </TD></TR></TABLE>

for $3500 + ITR you can make a lot more than 210 whp NA. Go do some searches in the all motor forum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

for $3500 + ITR you can make a lot more than 210 whp NA. Go do some searches in the all motor forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

2nd that....and y is it that everyone is saying turbo is so much fun, i mean dont get me wrong it is, but wouldnt reveing up to 10k or higher also be fun?!?!?!?!?!?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR was built for NA. If you want turbo, sell the itr and get a gsr (or any other B), it'll be easier and cheaper that way. Lower compression is good for FI, higher compression is good for NA.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, stick with n/a if you're gonna stick with the ITR motor.
ITR+boost=gay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

2nd that....and y is it that everyone is saying turbo is so much fun, i mean dont get me wrong it is, but wouldnt reveing up to 10k or higher also be fun?!?!?!?!?!?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well what makes u think u cant rev the motor that high with boost? as long as the valvetrain is built, it can handle the punishment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mx621 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all motor is fun, turbo funer, nice header & cam combo would be nice, i would not ruin a good R motor with boost, compression is a little high, but 300 whp is a realistic goal, on stock internals, if tuned well, it will last.</TD></TR></TABLE>

funer is not a word, INFACT even if you spelled it properly, ie. Funner, it still wouldnt be a word. you my friend need a few more hours of english class.

 

i wouldnt turbo a itr

 

ITR=all motor

 

ignore all these guys saying "BUT THE B18C5 WAS MADE FOR NA!!!!"

bottom line,
if you want bragging rights, less horsepower and want to spend more money, stay NA
if you want to be fast as *****, make lots of power and spend less money, turbo.

regardless of what you do, you're going to be changing the characteristics of the motor so much that it will require tuning.

yes, the ITR runs fairly high compression for a factory motor. So therefore you should tune it and run lower boost. 5lbs of boost would give you way more power than a 1000 dollar set of cams, and a 600 dollar valve train.

bottom line, if you are going to be course racing in a league that doesn't allow turbochargers on non-turbo cars, then stay NA.

if you want something to romp around the streets with, expletive with vettes on the highway, go with boost

the reason that it's "MADE AN NA MOTOR" is because it's not a piece of **** motor that honda just strapped a turbo to to make power. Kinda like the srt4's 2.4 liter, it's just some shitty NA motor that chrysler had to make fairly large cause it's easier to make a poorly designed motor with a larger displacement to make power.

how many 825hp NA gsr motors do you see?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gordon Liddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason that it's "MADE AN NA MOTOR" is because it's not a piece of **** motor that honda just strapped a turbo to to make power. Kinda like the srt4's 2.4 liter, it's just some shitty NA motor that chrysler had to make fairly large cause it's easier to make a poorly designed motor with a larger displacement to make power.

how many 825hp NA gsr motors do you see?</TD></TR></TABLE> thats funny as hell.... I hate neons and yes an srt-4 is a neon. Gordon liddy what do you drive? I might have seen your car before.

 

don't turbo the ITR motor. I think you may have a little more reading to do on HT. I did a lot of research and can finally answer the question by myself. I think you need to come to the conclusion yourself also.

I personally would sell the ITR longblock and buy 2 b16a and turbo one and have on b16 as a backup for a rainy day your motor blows.

I tuned my bros jrsc (jackson Racing supercharger) b17 to 195 whp and 135lb ft. @ 6psi. best time was 13.2. basline was 141whp IHE.

I think if you turbo a b16 with a 60trim t3/t04e at the same psi you will be at well over 220whp. tune it to 12 or even 1 bar. and that will give you 300+whp.

short recap.

3500 to mod

ITR longblock = 3200

6700 total to spend

2 b16a second gen 700 each longblock

6700 - 1400 = 5300

custom turbo with tune will be just about 3000 give or take a few 100 leaving 2300.
turbo kit with tune will be about 3500 give or take a few 100 for tuning leaving 1800.

Just and thought

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gordon Liddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ignore all these guys saying "BUT THE B18C5 WAS MADE FOR NA!!!!"

bottom line,
if you want bragging rights, less horsepower and want to spend more money, stay NA
if you want to be fast as *****, make lots of power and spend less money, turbo.

regardless of what you do, you're going to be changing the characteristics of the motor so much that it will require tuning.

yes, the ITR runs fairly high compression for a factory motor. So therefore you should tune it and run lower boost. 5lbs of boost would give you way more power than a 1000 dollar set of cams, and a 600 dollar valve train.

bottom line, if you are going to be course racing in a league that doesn't allow turbochargers on non-turbo cars, then stay NA.

if you want something to romp around the streets with, expletive with vettes on the highway, go with boost

the reason that it's "MADE AN NA MOTOR" is because it's not a piece of **** motor that honda just strapped a turbo to to make power. Kinda like the srt4's 2.4 liter, it's just some shitty NA motor that chrysler had to make fairly large cause it's easier to make a poorly designed motor with a larger displacement to make power.

how many 825hp NA gsr motors do you see?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Screw selling and replacing parts. If your going to boost, just build your motor for it. Just because the ITR comes with high compression doesnt mean it has to stay that high, nor does it mean you cant spend a couple extra $ to accept a little boost. Like Liddy said, 5 lbs of boost, you'll be faster than spending 2x as much going N/A and you'll be reliable.

 

Boost it . For 3,500 you can have a nasty setup. As long as you have a good tune then your motor will last. High RPM +Boost= Check out the Forced Induction forum.

 

What advantage does the ITR offer over a GSR once you put a turbo on it, that you can't buy with the money you saved by buying a b18c1 in the first place?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What advantage does the ITR offer over a GSR once you put a turbo on it, that you can't buy with the money you saved by buying a b18c1 in the first place? </TD></TR></TABLE>

cylinder head, balanced crankshaft...

 

you can get a b16 head (closer to the type r) and port it with the money you saved buying a gsr. the balanced crankshaft can't be had for that $ though.