Hello,

I was taking out the AC pump on my ITR today and noticed a crack in my SFPR manifold right by the Wastegate



So I am trying to weigh my options...Could I get this repaired, and if so...would it be worth it? In an ideal situation I would scrap that manifold and just go all out and buy a Full-Race EL manifold...but $1100 is hard to come up with these days with all of my money going to pay for school and other expenses. So, is there a manifold that compares to the FR manifold, but costs less? I'm not looking for the cheapest thing, either...I know you get what you pay for...but I am looking for something that will be better than the current manifold, but still be a little economical. Thanks for any help!

Tyler

 

I'm not very familiar with this mani but what material is it made out of? If steel just have it repaired. Aluminum can be repaired as well but you have to find someone who knows what they are doing as welding aluminum is a bit harder.

 

aluminum exhaust manifold... thats a new one. jackass....

:poke:

 

just try adn weld it..thats what i did with my cast iron manifold..if not..order one of ebay..my buddie has good experiences with them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FULL-Race_B18C5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">order one of ebay..my buddie has good experiences with them </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea just order any ole' one off ebay....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aluminum exhaust manifold... thats a new one. jackass....

:poke:</TD></TR></TABLE>

My bad, I'm at work and quickly read about it and was thinking IM for some reason okes back fugger:


Modified by Dave_B at 1:43 PM 10/27/2005

 

I you want a manifold that won't crack, get a good ductile iron unit like RevHard

 

you can get it tig welded again.im not exactly sure how thick of a material SFP uses on their manifolds since it looks like it broke next to the wheld and not on the weld it might happen again. or you can try bracing you wastegate so the weight of the wastegate isnt stressing that joint when it gets hot. if you just want an unbreakable manifold you can get something like an inline pro. but when changing manifolds usually ends up in making a new downpipe.

 

Unless you want to expletive with getting a new downpipe, moving charge pipes around, reclocking the turbo, etc... just fix what you have!!!

Otherwise the lovefab minime is working for me pretty good.

-Chris

 

SFP's are good mani's....so why not just get it rewelded, and then make a brace for the wastegate?

if that's not good...then sell it off to someone that can fix it...and get an inline pro cast mani... 9lbs, lifetime warrenty, and better than a full-rice piece of ****

 

That's a good idea...I'll try to get it rewelded and get a brace on the wastegate. And about that...can someone post a picture of a wastegate brace? Is it just a strip of metal you have welded to the manifold, or is it something else?

 

Ya, just reweld the crack and the add a piece of metal from the wastegate flange angled down to the mani. Triangles are your friend.

 

If I were you I will reweld it and I will don`t do any braces at all . When you do a brace to a stainless steel manifold they tend to crack more because Stainless steel absorb heat more than normal steel, and because of the extra heat the metal expands , and when you do a brace you are holding that one peace from expanding and you will have new cracks .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SFP's are good mani's....so why not just get it rewelded, and then make a brace for the wastegate?

if that's not good...then sell it off to someone that can fix it...and get an inline pro cast mani... 9lbs, lifetime warrenty, and better than a full-rice piece of ****</TD></TR></TABLE>

From your post saying that Full-Race is **** obviously you don`t know what the heck are you talking about , Full-Race are the best manifolds you can get on the market

 

just because u cant afford it doesnt mean its ****.

 

Got a pic of the whole manifold? Mine actually has a small brace holding it above the runners.

 

w/ $1100 spend, might as well get it patched up, its likely this damage is caused by stress from movement, so something must be hitting something and somewhere, i'd check your clearances, intercooler piping, dumptube whatever else or this likely to happen again if you redo with same exact setup.. and if you dont want manifold to break, get one piece stainless steel cast iron!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marlon88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From your post saying that Full-Race is **** obviously you don`t know what the heck are you talking about , Full-Race are the best manifolds you can get on the market </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's your opinion and VERY far from a fact
i don't like giant heatsinks in my car, that weight almost as much as the turbo..that's pointless to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just because u cant afford it doesnt mean its ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

affording it is of no matter to me...if there's a part i feel is worth an elevated price..i'd gladly pay it. but when it comes to something like this, i'd steer clear for myself

 

compared to most others EL manifolds its around 200 bux difference or so, i dont mind paying extra for avoiding fitting problems or cracks, besides comparing a FR kit to others the big price difference is on the backdoor IC.

 

that's another thing i don't get...why?
you come off the turbo and hit a hard 90*....i'd MUCH rather have the extra piping as apposed to a backdoor setup

 

Rock the Full Race manifold.

 

rhd name me a Turbo kit that you can make 600+whp from off the shelf and stright from the maker

That`s a simple question isn`t it !? so come up with your best answer

Full-Race manifolds are expensive because they use robotic tig welding instead of hand tig welding , Robotic welding has far more great finish and what can I say more about them , They offer life time warranty on there manifolds !!

Also that it weighs and is a heatsink I think all of them equal length manifolds are made the same way , the difference is that on others I don`t know how thick are the stainless steel material used but on the Full-Race they use very thick material so they have the strength to never crack !! I think I will prefer a heavy manifold which will perform better than all the manifolds that are on the market than a cracked one

EDIT -- rhd Don`t forget to answer my question

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i don't like giant heatsinks in my car, that weight almost as much as the turbo..that's pointless to me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that a manifold that is a heat sink is better because heated exhaust gases be greater at higher temperatures and will travel better so it will yield better spool up times .

Ever heard of puting thermal wrap on the exhaust manifold so they can keep it warm and have better spool up time !?

It`s heavy because they use high grade stainless steel wich is very thick and strong as I already said in the last post .

 

what's your point on 600whp?
full race offers big turbos...great. it's not their manifold's making that power, it's the turbo. team a big turbo on an SFP manifold, a revhard manifold, a peak boost manifold, an inline pro manifold, hell an SSAC manifold and you can make 600whp. That doesn't make full race specail in anyway. For the PRICE of their 600whp capable kits, you could put together a much better setup anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marlon88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that a manifold that is a heat sink is better because heated exhaust gases be greater at higher temperatures and will travel better so it will yield better spool up times .

Ever heard of puting thermal wrap on the exhaust manifold so they can keep it warm and have better spool up time !?

It`s heavy because they use high grade stainless steel wich is very thick and strong as I already said in the last post .</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha

it's heavy becasue it uses schedule 40 pipe because one ofhte employees couldn't stand having to brace a kooks thin wall mani, so he just took the design.

a thin walled mani would make hte same power/spool, save weight, AND would keep the engine bay much cooler. A shame honda ppl are so lazy that running one isn't possible because it would actually take proper bracing.