[FAQ] After market steering wheel install/OEM wheel removal for EG.
I see a lot of threads about this and the confusion behind it. This is a really straight foward process and it can easily be done within an hour, probably less.
I bought my steering wheel from http://www.Tekniqauto.com. The got the street combo setup, which included: 1 Hub, 1 Hub Ring, 1 Steering wheel and all the nessacary bolts to make it work.
You're going to need these tools:
-Torx T-30 screwdriver.
-19mm socket.
-Philips screwdriver.
-Flathead screwdriver (not needed but VERY helpful).
The first and most IMPORTANT step is to remove BOTH + and - cables from your battery. After these have been removed, wait about 5 minutes for it to clear out. Smoke a ciggerete, smoke a ciggeret, etc.

Once your battery has cooled down. Get in your car and let's get that airbag off! On the very bottom of the wheel, you're going to see a peice of plastic that can be removed, remove that. Now, you'll see a yellow plug, pull that out and connect it to to the red clip on the opposite side of the plastic you just removed this will close the circuit and avoid and accidental deployment of the airbag.
You're going to see 2 panels on either side of the steering wheel, pop off the plastic and use your Torx screwdriver to get them out. Once these are out your airbag will come out. Make sure you remove the wires that are attached to the cruise control and the horn.

One the airbag is out remove the 18mm nut that is holding the steering wheel in place. This is where it kind of gets tricky. This is going to be the hardest part of this removal. As you can see, there is a SRS cable reel under the steering wheel. Basically, what this accomplishes is when you turn the wheel when driving the wires don't get ripped or pulled on.

You're going to want to remove the kick panel (the peice that your fuse cover is connected to) and trace the bright yellow wires that run under your dash. It should be connected DIRECTLY under the steering column. What makes this so hard is that it's tucked up there really good and it's hard to get a hand up there, let alone to get it apart. Use the flat head screwdriver on one side, and pull on the other.
Once the cable reel has been disconnected from under your dash, you're going to be looking at this.

The red circles indicate where the screws are. (I installed this wheel months ago, so I'm going off memory, the screws may not be in those exact locations but they are on the cable reel).
Once that is removed you're done! Simple wasn't it? Now you can install your new wheel, or whatever you need to do.
The finished product!

*NOTE* When removing the SRS cable reel that also has a wire for your horn, you will either need to run wires directly from your horn to a switch. Or find the wire under the dash (I believe it's blue/green) and tap it into that. *NOTE*
Modified by JDM-EJ1 at 4:43 PM 1/18/2008
I bought my steering wheel from http://www.Tekniqauto.com. The got the street combo setup, which included: 1 Hub, 1 Hub Ring, 1 Steering wheel and all the nessacary bolts to make it work.
You're going to need these tools:
-Torx T-30 screwdriver.
-19mm socket.
-Philips screwdriver.
-Flathead screwdriver (not needed but VERY helpful).
The first and most IMPORTANT step is to remove BOTH + and - cables from your battery. After these have been removed, wait about 5 minutes for it to clear out. Smoke a ciggerete, smoke a ciggeret, etc.

Once your battery has cooled down. Get in your car and let's get that airbag off! On the very bottom of the wheel, you're going to see a peice of plastic that can be removed, remove that. Now, you'll see a yellow plug, pull that out and connect it to to the red clip on the opposite side of the plastic you just removed this will close the circuit and avoid and accidental deployment of the airbag.
You're going to see 2 panels on either side of the steering wheel, pop off the plastic and use your Torx screwdriver to get them out. Once these are out your airbag will come out. Make sure you remove the wires that are attached to the cruise control and the horn.

One the airbag is out remove the 18mm nut that is holding the steering wheel in place. This is where it kind of gets tricky. This is going to be the hardest part of this removal. As you can see, there is a SRS cable reel under the steering wheel. Basically, what this accomplishes is when you turn the wheel when driving the wires don't get ripped or pulled on.

You're going to want to remove the kick panel (the peice that your fuse cover is connected to) and trace the bright yellow wires that run under your dash. It should be connected DIRECTLY under the steering column. What makes this so hard is that it's tucked up there really good and it's hard to get a hand up there, let alone to get it apart. Use the flat head screwdriver on one side, and pull on the other.
Once the cable reel has been disconnected from under your dash, you're going to be looking at this.

The red circles indicate where the screws are. (I installed this wheel months ago, so I'm going off memory, the screws may not be in those exact locations but they are on the cable reel).
Once that is removed you're done! Simple wasn't it? Now you can install your new wheel, or whatever you need to do.
The finished product!

*NOTE* When removing the SRS cable reel that also has a wire for your horn, you will either need to run wires directly from your horn to a switch. Or find the wire under the dash (I believe it's blue/green) and tap it into that. *NOTE*
Modified by JDM-EJ1 at 4:43 PM 1/18/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very good
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, on a side note. Vic and I couldn't decide of the nut holding the wheel to the steering column was a 17mm or an 18mm. If memory serves, I believe it was an 18mm!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Oh, on a side note. Vic and I couldn't decide of the nut holding the wheel to the steering column was a 17mm or an 18mm. If memory serves, I believe it was an 18mm!
This has no use to me what so ever, but good job on the write up
I'm thinking, i'm gonna start doing write ups on everything I do to my car with pics and ****, and give back to the community because I have learned so much
thanks for contributing
I'm thinking, i'm gonna start doing write ups on everything I do to my car with pics and ****, and give back to the community because I have learned so much
thanks for contributing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2 Speed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This has no use to me what so ever, but good job on the write up
I'm thinking, i'm gonna start doing write ups on everything I do to my car with pics and ****, and give back to the community because I have learned so much
thanks for contributing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, on a lot of the stuff I've been doing to my car I haven't found any write-ups and very limited information here on Honda-Tech. If this thread can help one person, it's accomplished it's goal.
I'm thinking, i'm gonna start doing write ups on everything I do to my car with pics and ****, and give back to the community because I have learned so much
thanks for contributing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, on a lot of the stuff I've been doing to my car I haven't found any write-ups and very limited information here on Honda-Tech. If this thread can help one person, it's accomplished it's goal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I doubt it's an 18mm. Most bolts on the civic in that range are 17 and 19mm so I'm guessing it's a 17mm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only part I don't agree with here is 'most'. That leaves that small chance that it could be an 18mm. I'm almost 99.9% positive that it is an 18mm. I will confirm this tomorrow.
The only part I don't agree with here is 'most'. That leaves that small chance that it could be an 18mm. I'm almost 99.9% positive that it is an 18mm. I will confirm this tomorrow.
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To correct your information:
-- It's a T30 torx bit, not a T20.
-- It's a 19mm socket, not a 18mm socket
I've replaced steering wheels both in my old RSX and in my Civic. It's all the same.
-- It's a T30 torx bit, not a T20.
-- It's a 19mm socket, not a 18mm socket
I've replaced steering wheels both in my old RSX and in my Civic. It's all the same.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh, on a side note. Vic and I couldn't decide of the nut holding the wheel to the steering column was a 17mm or an 18mm. If memory serves, I believe it was an 18mm!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've just done this yesterday and I believe it was a 19mm OR 3/4 ... my brother was telling me what tools to get and thats what I remembered hearing...the FAQ however, was basically, exactly what I did yesterday.. excellent write-up
Oh, on a side note. Vic and I couldn't decide of the nut holding the wheel to the steering column was a 17mm or an 18mm. If memory serves, I believe it was an 18mm!
</TD></TR></TABLE>I've just done this yesterday and I believe it was a 19mm OR 3/4 ... my brother was telling me what tools to get and thats what I remembered hearing...the FAQ however, was basically, exactly what I did yesterday.. excellent write-up
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to note that this is an ILLEGAL modification and could result in your death.
Good writeup though! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct this is true. And if you ever do decide to sell your car like this, I would suggest having the buying party sign a waiver so they're not able to sue you if you get into an accident.
Good writeup though! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct this is true. And if you ever do decide to sell your car like this, I would suggest having the buying party sign a waiver so they're not able to sue you if you get into an accident.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To correct your information:
-- It's a T30 torx bit, not a T20.
-- It's a 19mm socket, not a 18mm socket
I've replaced steering wheels both in my old RSX and in my Civic. It's all the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for clearing that up, like I said.. I did this months ago so my memory was a tad foggy.
-- It's a T30 torx bit, not a T20.
-- It's a 19mm socket, not a 18mm socket
I've replaced steering wheels both in my old RSX and in my Civic. It's all the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for clearing that up, like I said.. I did this months ago so my memory was a tad foggy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Correct this is true. And if you ever do decide to sell your car like this, I would suggest having the buying party sign a waiver so they're not able to sue you if you get into an accident.</TD></TR></TABLE> I thought it was a right as the owner that you could remove the airbag, as long as you notified it on your title, or something like that.
I've been thinking about doing this for a while. So, thats why I was wondering.
I plan to sell my car one day, but I hate my blue steering wheel, and honda airbags are expensive.
Correct this is true. And if you ever do decide to sell your car like this, I would suggest having the buying party sign a waiver so they're not able to sue you if you get into an accident.</TD></TR></TABLE> I thought it was a right as the owner that you could remove the airbag, as long as you notified it on your title, or something like that.
I've been thinking about doing this for a while. So, thats why I was wondering.
I plan to sell my car one day, but I hate my blue steering wheel, and honda airbags are expensive.
Re. the very wekk documented wheel removel -
This is not quite for this site perhaps as it's for a minivan!! But do you think the removal of an Odyssey steering wheel would be more or less the same procedure as your very clear plans show?
THanks. Andrew.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ODYEX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Re. the very wekk documented wheel removel -
This is not quite for this site perhaps as it's for a minivan!! But do you think the removal of an Odyssey steering wheel would be more or less the same procedure as your very clear plans show?
THanks. Andrew.</TD></TR></TABLE>
English?
This is not quite for this site perhaps as it's for a minivan!! But do you think the removal of an Odyssey steering wheel would be more or less the same procedure as your very clear plans show?
THanks. Andrew.</TD></TR></TABLE>
English?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DxHatchback »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sweet! thanks for the write up!
i plan on getting a quick release and wheel soon </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I was thinking it was going to be a challenge. But it's really simple to do, the hardest part is getting the SRS wire disconnected from under the steering column. Everything else after that is cake!
i plan on getting a quick release and wheel soon </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I was thinking it was going to be a challenge. But it's really simple to do, the hardest part is getting the SRS wire disconnected from under the steering column. Everything else after that is cake!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If this thread can help one person, it's accomplished it's goal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice people.....so rare these days
</TD></TR></TABLE>nice people.....so rare these days







