Ive done a search and havent really come up with what I was looking for.

What would be the proper way to do a burnout and launch an em1 with slicks without breaking anything?

My setup is i/h/e, test pipe, cs stage 2 clutch, fidanza flywheel, gutted interior, no ps, no ac..(stock motor)
I will be running race gas and advanced timing

Im just not sure what rpm to launch at since I have no experience on these tires..
Any pointers would be great

 

I launched at 8500 and slipped the clutch after a 2nd gear burnout .... hooked up great till about 20 feet and the stock diff made a nice hole to jump out of hahhaha .... Just run a little more pressure and slip a little more clutch untill you get it down just to be safe..... I run about 6 psi without tubes and still slip out of the hole but I also have 410 ft pounds of torque to worry about ... Id try 12-15 psi for a starting point with your mods

 

I too am curious.

 

W.F.O.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">W.F.O. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what???

 

wide f-----g open

 

As far as RPM, you'll have to play w/ that and practice the launch. What size slicks are they? Also, do a search on "preload". Preloading is the best way not to break drivetrain parts. I've always used OEM axles and never had problems on all size slicks from 20"(back in the day) to 24.5's. 1st gear will be optimum for you to do brnouts in. Pull the E-brake, rev the engine and dump the clutch. As soon as the car starts pulling forward release the e-brake and put the throttle to the floor. As soon as the slicks hook push the clutch in and stage. I'll be happy to answer anymore questions (except for preloading questions cause' I've explained it here enough ) Good luck.

Phil

 

Do not do a 2nd gear burnout. You can get plenty of heat with a 1st gear burnout and you'll save drivetrain parts. Also don't run race gas, with your mods it won't do anything but hurt your times.

Go into the water and barely pull out. Pull the e-brake, rev it up to around 7k and slip/drop the clutch and keep the revs up till the tires start to pull you then stop. Start with 12psi and work your way down and see what works best.

 

What do you high hp cars do for burnout and clutch. Right now im deployed so i dont have a chance at anything. My car is being built as we speak, I plan on have 500+ and using 24.5 slicks. Most people say 2-3rd gear burnouts, Do you start in 2 gear dump the clutch and let it spin for 6sec. then go...???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoOstedEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you high hp cars do for burnout and clutch. Right now im deployed so i dont have a chance at anything. My car is being built as we speak, I plan on have 500+ and using 24.5 slicks. Most people say 2-3rd gear burnouts, Do you start in 2 gear dump the clutch and let it spin for 6sec. then go...???</TD></TR></TABLE>

More along the lines of what I am interested in. Not familiar with staging and/or burning out w/ high hp cars

 

your car weighs around 2600lbs w/o you in it. you will break something on slicks if using the slicks properly. if you dont use the slicks properly then you wont gain anything. couple all this with the torqueless B16 and i think your in for some problems. lastly you have also coupled in a lightweight flywheel which will prolly add to the problem.
if you dont want to break anything stay off slicks and stay off the track. your car runs mid 15s as it sits w/good driver, with no experience it will run 16s and possibly slower.
i do a 3rd gear burnout, much better than a 1st gear burnout and still quicker than a 2nd gear. usually 2nd gear is enough though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your car weighs around 2600lbs w/o you in it. you will break something on slicks if using the slicks properly. if you dont use the slicks properly then you wont gain anything. couple all this with the torqueless B16 and i think your in for some problems. lastly you have also coupled in a lightweight flywheel which will prolly add to the problem.
if you dont want to break anything stay off slicks and stay off the track. your car runs mid 15s as it sits w/good driver, with no experience it will run 16s and possibly slower.
i do a 3rd gear burnout, much better than a 1st gear burnout and still quicker than a 2nd gear. usually 2nd gear is enough though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are probably referring to the creator of this thread but what about a hatch that weighs roughly 1900 lbs (my hatch) w/ motor? I'll be running full race traction bars, omni drag coilovers, and quaife lsd.

 

kevin first off you goin to need a tranny when your done with the slicks the way you drive. stock clutch and slicks will be a bad idea. just buy a set of drag radials.

 

i found in my personal vehicle the lighter the car the easier it was on parts. i broke a few axles when i had a 99EX coupe w/GSR, minor bolt ons and cams.
then i went to my 92 hatch, raced it more than ever for 2 seasons and only broke 1 axle w/ a built 1.8L.
the biggest failure i have had is from my gator racing axles, they suck *****. i switched to DSS axles and havent had a failure yet. i have broke a KAAZ LSD after 3 months in my 99 coupe that i mentioned earlier. i ran a stock ITR diff for 2 seasons no problems.