i've had the cross drilled/slotted rotors f/r with axis metal masters and steel lines.. rotors are warped for the 2nd time!


thinkin of going with something more high end like

endless:

or ssbc .. etc


wondering if anyone has any experience with it. or a cheaper recommendation

 

I have the SSBC Force 10 13" kit on my car. I have 18" RacingHart CR Single Piece rims and I must honestly say that I needed the 12" kit. It says you need at least an 18" rim to fit the 13" kit, but the caliper was hitting my spoke. I ended up putting wheel spacers on them. Overal, they are good, especially for the price, but get the 12" rotor and you'll be happier.

http://www.ssbrakes.com/produc...=1998

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've had the cross drilled/slotted rotors f/r with axis metal masters and steel lines.. rotors are warped for the 2nd time!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, just put solid rotors on.. with good pads...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wondering if anyone has any experience with it. or a cheaper recommendation</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, save your money from bling thats not going to stop you faster..
Just upgrade to good pads and just get regular rotors and call it a day.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com order axxis ultimate pads

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've had the cross drilled/slotted rotors f/r with axis metal masters and steel lines.. rotors are warped for the 2nd time!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Swiss chees rotors suck ***. That's fact. 2. You're probably not following your bed-in procedure for your pads correctly. 3. Buy some Autozone blank rotors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thinkin of going with something more high end like

endless:

or ssbc .. etc</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're going to do it, do it right and go with a STOPTECH front brake kit. The piston diameters are correctly proportioned, the caliper is rigid and has a very common pad shape (Porsche pad shape) and their kits are engineered not marketed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wondering if anyone has any experience with it. or a cheaper recommendation


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cheaper? Stay stock. I've done over 30 track days on stock brakes by simply running better pads (Cobalt Spec VR) and better fluid (ATE) and solid Autozone blank rotors. I'd like more brakes, but not becuase I'm fading the stock setup, but because I'd like better feel (which is a totally different conversation).

PS: I'd stay away from the SSBC kit.

 

My big brake upgrade was to Prelude VTEC rotors and calipers. Best brake upgrade EVAR!!( I drive an Accord.)

 

i'm really suprised that you guys are recommending the blank rotors.. ok sounds good


i have to say stoptech is nice.. i rode in my friends 300zx TT with the stoptech kit. it was like an anchor being thrown out of the window when he slowed down

anyone else?

 

so i guess upgrading to a more powerful caliper is going to solve your warping?? (i think not)

stock calipers, nice pads, and blank rotors is enough for anything you will be using a street prelude for....

if you must go bigger then yes, the stoptech sounds nice...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have to say stoptech is nice.. i rode in my friends 300zx TT with the stoptech kit. it was like an anchor being thrown out of the window when he slowed down

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Pigs like that need brakes like that..

 

ive upgraded to legend gs dual pot calipers and going to be getting some non oem pads over the winter as well as geting the 5 lug rotor from the legend gs redriled to fit a 114.3*4 pattern.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive upgraded to legend gs dual pot calipers and going to be getting some non oem pads over the winter as well as geting the 5 lug rotor from the legend gs redriled to fit a 114.3*4 pattern.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why, because of the 3mm thicker rotor? I really don't think thats worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why, because of the 3mm thicker rotor? I really don't think thats worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its 5mm and the diameter is ever so slightly bigger.. its mostly because i hate having to run a shim, but there is alot more material to the legend gs rotors, i think it would take more abuse than a stock vtec rotor.

 

what is stock rotor size on the 95 si anyways??

 

10.3"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its 5mm and the diameter is ever so slightly bigger.. its mostly because i hate having to run a shim, but there is alot more material to the legend gs rotors, i think it would take more abuse than a stock vtec rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't like to use a shim, just get a set 23T brakets instead or your 28T brakets. there are a lot of cars that have the 23T bracket, check around some junkyards. I'm sure you'll find something and cheaper than buying new rotors and redilling them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitownrida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is stock rotor size on the 95 si anyways??


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the VTEC lude right?? Stock rotor size is 11 in.

 

my kit consists of rx7 4 piston calipers on 11.2 inch lude rotors, (1 inch up from the accord 10inch)

breaking is great with no fade from my hawk pads , in fact the warmer they get the more they grab.

i know its not much of a big brake kit but i thikn calipers are the best way to improve pedal feel and maximize the pads you have ,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fly1865 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you don't like to use a shim, just get a set 23T brakets instead or your 28T brakets. there are a lot of cars that have the 23T bracket, check around some junkyards. I'm sure you'll find something and cheaper than buying new rotors and redilling them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not the brakets that is too big its the space in the caliper, between where the pistons are.. basically what i mean is on the caliper where the disk sits inbetween the 2 parts of the caliper it is 28mm instead of the 23mm that a prelude rotor is.. so its not a braket problem.

 

I know that, your two choices are keep the 28t and upgrade to legend rotors, or get 23t and keep it as is. either way you have to buy something. I just figured buying brackets would be cheaper than 2 rotors and having them redrilled.

 

I'm using the AEM oversized rotors with EBC Green Stuff pads. As far as the whole " drilled and slotted rotors suck " myth goes, here what I have to say about that.

One of the biggest false truths that haunt the automotive world is the belief that brakes stop a vehicle. This is NOT true: tires stop a vehicle. Brakes simply assist the tires by converting kinetic energy into heat. With this said, a brake rotor has two main functions:
1. provide a coefficient of friction necessary to
convert the kinetic energy into heat
2. act as a heat sink to move heat away from
the brake pads ( where it matters most ).

There is a belief that cross-drilling brake rotors helps assist in the cooling of the brake system as a whole. This is only partially true. While cross-drilling rotors does help to cool the rotor itself, it actually can decrease the rotor's effectiveness to move heat away from the brake pads, which is where it matters most. Keep in mind that the more mass present in a heat sink, the more effective it is at transferring heat and electricity. By drilling into a rotor, mass is actually being taken off of the rotor, which means two things:
1. there is less mass to help assist in the
transfer of heat
2. there is less surface area to provide a
coefficient of friction

With this said, if braking performance is your main goal, then cross-drilled rotors would not be the best rotors to go with. However, keep in mind that these two before-mentioned downfalls are not issues if the cross-drilled rotors are oversized. If the cross-drilled rotors are oversized, then there will be enough additional surface area and mass to make-up for or more-than make-up for the two downfalls mentioned previously.

Whether you go with oversized cross-drilled rotors or standard-sized cross-drilled rotors, you must keep in mind that all cross-drilled rotors have a great tendency to crack over time, especially if they see a lot of heavy-duty use from racing, oversized wheels, and/or high-heat conditions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i guess upgrading to a more powerful caliper is going to solve your warping?? (i think not)

stock calipers, nice pads, and blank rotors is enough for anything you will be using a street prelude for....

if you must go bigger then yes, the stoptech sounds nice...</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly. Go with what you can afford. I did EBC green stuff, brembo blanks, and SS brake lines. good stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fly1865 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know that, your two choices are keep the 28t and upgrade to legend rotors, or get 23t and keep it as is. either way you have to buy something. I just figured buying brackets would be cheaper than 2 rotors and having them redrilled.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not userstanding what your saying...

the ledgend calipers were designed for a rotor that is 28mm thick
the prelude calipers are designed for a rotor that is 23mm thick

right now i have the stock prelude mounting braket and runing legend gs calipers.. the only way to not run a 5mm shim is to go back to the stock prelude caliper which is designed for the 23mm disk or to upgrade to a 28mm disk which the caliper is origanialy desighned..

im really tired so maybe im jsut missing what you trying to say.