Are these rotors any good?
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From: buckland, ma, usa
Are these rotors any good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
It doesn't say what brand, but the seller is rated is rated high. do you think they're worth it?
It doesn't say what brand, but the seller is rated is rated high. do you think they're worth it?
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Re: Are these rotors any good? (Paultso)
you do know cross drilled/slotted doesn't really help in preludes
i mean you aren't doing any hardcore road racing, unless you just want the looks, plus it eats away at your pads more
i just bought brembo blanks for 60 shipped and called it day, they work great
i mean you aren't doing any hardcore road racing, unless you just want the looks, plus it eats away at your pads more
i just bought brembo blanks for 60 shipped and called it day, they work great
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From: Knoxville, TN, United States
Re: Are these rotors any good? (petern101)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petern101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you do know cross drilled/slotted doesn't really help in preludes
i mean you aren't doing any hardcore road racing, unless you just want the looks, plus it eats away at your pads more
i just bought brembo blanks for 60 shipped and called it day, they work great</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I did. If you want to improve braking, get some good pads (AEM semi-metallics are supposed to be good)
i mean you aren't doing any hardcore road racing, unless you just want the looks, plus it eats away at your pads more
i just bought brembo blanks for 60 shipped and called it day, they work great</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I did. If you want to improve braking, get some good pads (AEM semi-metallics are supposed to be good)
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From: buckland, ma, usa
Re: Are these rotors any good? (petern101)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petern101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i just bought brembo blanks for 60 shipped and called it day, they work great</TD></TR></TABLE>
How many and where'd you get them?
i just bought brembo blanks for 60 shipped and called it day, they work great</TD></TR></TABLE>
How many and where'd you get them?
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Re: Are these rotors any good? (shutta)
bought it from sponsor on preludeonline.com, bought only the front 2 and resurfaced the rears
i have some ebc green stuff right now and for track i use hawk hp+
you can always find those brembo blanks for a good price though
i'm sure there is a groupbuy in classifieds for these rotors
i have some ebc green stuff right now and for track i use hawk hp+
you can always find those brembo blanks for a good price though
i'm sure there is a groupbuy in classifieds for these rotors
Re: Are these rotors any good? (petern101)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petern101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bought it from sponsor on preludeonline.com, bought only the front 2 and resurfaced the rears
i have some ebc green stuff right now and for track i use hawk hp+
you can always find those brembo blanks for a good price though
i'm sure there is a groupbuy in classifieds for these rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got my blanks for $36 each shipped for the fronts and $17 shipped for the rears.
i have some ebc green stuff right now and for track i use hawk hp+
you can always find those brembo blanks for a good price though
i'm sure there is a groupbuy in classifieds for these rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got my blanks for $36 each shipped for the fronts and $17 shipped for the rears.
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Re: (shutta)
I ordered mine off http://www.thepartsbin.com or http://www.drivewire.com. I called and they gave me that price.
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From: Culpeper, VA
Re: Are these rotors any good? (AznBlueBoy)
Crossdrilled/slotted are a waste of everyone's money.. I don't even use them on the racecar..
Autozone/Advanced auto or whatever will have cheap rotors with lifetime warrenty. Your stoping ability is really in the pads/tires
Autozone/Advanced auto or whatever will have cheap rotors with lifetime warrenty. Your stoping ability is really in the pads/tires
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From: Ottawa/London, ON, Canada
Re: Are these rotors any good? (Honda318dx)
Depending on where you live, they may be a very bad idea. Places where it gets really cold (like here in Canada) slotted/drilled rotors can crack on you quite easily in the winter!
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Re: Are these rotors any good? (Honda318dx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crossdrilled/slotted are a waste of everyone's money..
Your stoping ability is really in the pads/tires</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great information. Thanks. Thats good to know.
Have you tried the AEM brake pads?
Your stoping ability is really in the pads/tires</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great information. Thanks. Thats good to know.
Have you tried the AEM brake pads?
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From: Culpeper, VA
Re: Are these rotors any good? (TheKingPin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Great information. Thanks. Thats good to know.
Have you tried the AEM brake pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, they suck. Don't be fooled just because they say AEM..
Use "real" pads.. Axxis Ultimates are the highest ranking street pad in my book as far as performance goes.
Great information. Thanks. Thats good to know.
Have you tried the AEM brake pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, they suck. Don't be fooled just because they say AEM..
Use "real" pads.. Axxis Ultimates are the highest ranking street pad in my book as far as performance goes.
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
****. So, I'll just keep my rotors how they are. They're slotted, not drilled though. I've had them for a while - they look pretty good. Brake pads are worn.
So whats the deal about "Bigger Rotors are Better?"
So whats the deal about "Bigger Rotors are Better?"
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From: Nobody fcuks with the Jesus...
Re: Are these rotors any good? (Honda318dx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yea, they suck. Don't be fooled just because they say AEM..
Use "real" pads.. Axxis Ultimates are the highest ranking street pad in my book as far as performance goes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto cross-drilleds on the street tend to crack in between the holes due to the inconsistencies in temp/condition/usage/etc.
I used project mu pads on my race cars, but I hear good things about Axxis Ultimates.
Yea, they suck. Don't be fooled just because they say AEM..
Use "real" pads.. Axxis Ultimates are the highest ranking street pad in my book as far as performance goes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto
cross-drilleds on the street tend to crack in between the holes due to the inconsistencies in temp/condition/usage/etc. I used project mu pads on my race cars, but I hear good things about Axxis Ultimates.
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From: Ottawa/London, ON, Canada
Re: (TheKingPin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So whats the deal about "Bigger Rotors are Better?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
The way brakes work, is by converting kinetic energy (motion) into heat through friction. So, the bigger the rotors, the bigger your heat storage capacity. This only applies under heavy use at a track for example. If your rotors run out of heat "storage"... even if your pads are still good... you will press the pedal... and your car won't stop, until the rotors have cooled off.
The theory behind slotting and drilling, is to increase the surface area, which is in direct contact with air (cooling). However, there is a fine balance between increasing surface area (cooling) and by doing so, you are reducing the mass of the rotor (heat storage).
At the end of the day, bigger rotors are indeed better, but only if you actually need them, otherwise, it's just looks and $$.
The way brakes work, is by converting kinetic energy (motion) into heat through friction. So, the bigger the rotors, the bigger your heat storage capacity. This only applies under heavy use at a track for example. If your rotors run out of heat "storage"... even if your pads are still good... you will press the pedal... and your car won't stop, until the rotors have cooled off.
The theory behind slotting and drilling, is to increase the surface area, which is in direct contact with air (cooling). However, there is a fine balance between increasing surface area (cooling) and by doing so, you are reducing the mass of the rotor (heat storage).
At the end of the day, bigger rotors are indeed better, but only if you actually need them, otherwise, it's just looks and $$.
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From: Culpeper, VA
Re: (TheKingPin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">****. So, I'll just keep my rotors how they are. They're slotted, not drilled though. I've had them for a while - they look pretty good. Brake pads are worn.
So whats the deal about "Bigger Rotors are Better?"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you already have crossdrilled, fine, but really, they are good for nothing other than looks, and I guess drag racing because they weigh less. As for as actual braking performance, they do nothing for our cars, nothing..
Bigger Rotors are "better" for braking performance. They provide more braking leverage to the wheel, and stay cooler and have more mass to take heat. They are not good for adding more weight/rotational mass, which hurts non-braking performance.
There are some systems that are just plain overkills. There is NO reason to shove 12"+ big rotors under any of these hondas. Just upgrading to a factory larger size setup will do for 99$ of everyone. Heck, I raced for YEARS on stock 11.1" setup on my prelude, I have picture of the rotors glowing red in daylight. Not until I really got some HP under the hood did I upgrade to bigger brakes, and its only a 11.75" fastbrakes setup.
So whats the deal about "Bigger Rotors are Better?"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you already have crossdrilled, fine, but really, they are good for nothing other than looks, and I guess drag racing because they weigh less. As for as actual braking performance, they do nothing for our cars, nothing..
Bigger Rotors are "better" for braking performance. They provide more braking leverage to the wheel, and stay cooler and have more mass to take heat. They are not good for adding more weight/rotational mass, which hurts non-braking performance.
There are some systems that are just plain overkills. There is NO reason to shove 12"+ big rotors under any of these hondas. Just upgrading to a factory larger size setup will do for 99$ of everyone. Heck, I raced for YEARS on stock 11.1" setup on my prelude, I have picture of the rotors glowing red in daylight. Not until I really got some HP under the hood did I upgrade to bigger brakes, and its only a 11.75" fastbrakes setup.
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
So, I was doing some searching and came across something that said the preludes (4th gen) that originally came with the vtec engine has larger rotors and different calipers. Mine didn't originally come with the h22 - so, upgrading to those rotors/calipers should be sufficient eh?
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From: Culpeper, VA
Re: (TheKingPin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheKingPin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, I was doing some searching and came across something that said the preludes (4th gen) that originally came with the vtec engine has larger rotors and different calipers. Mine didn't originally come with the h22 - so, upgrading to those rotors/calipers should be sufficient eh?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly.. All you need is prelude VTEC calipers (4thgen, 5thgen, ITR, V6 Accord, Accord Wagon)
And replace the rotors with 4th gen VTEC ones from the autoparts store, get new performance pads like the axxis ultimates and your good to go. Oh yea, make sure to bleed the brakes and you cannot run wheels smaller then 15" with that setup.
Exactly.. All you need is prelude VTEC calipers (4thgen, 5thgen, ITR, V6 Accord, Accord Wagon)
And replace the rotors with 4th gen VTEC ones from the autoparts store, get new performance pads like the axxis ultimates and your good to go. Oh yea, make sure to bleed the brakes and you cannot run wheels smaller then 15" with that setup.
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From: Cleveland, OH, USA
Re: (TheKingPin)
Also, you've got to be careful when picking up drilled/slotted rotors.
Besides the fact that there's no point to them anymore - were developed for releasing gas build up and "cooling" (which has already been addressed) - since the materials the brake pads are made of now have minimal to no issues with that, especially for road driving. What you have to be careful of is that some places will buy these blanks and then drill them themselves and charge you 2x the $. That's fine and dandy, but if they don't pay attention, i.e. - properly design their product, then you'll get a rotor that is drilled right through the structural support = bad news all the way around. I read an article about this that went into great detail and provided examples, I'll post back up if I can find it...
Besides the fact that there's no point to them anymore - were developed for releasing gas build up and "cooling" (which has already been addressed) - since the materials the brake pads are made of now have minimal to no issues with that, especially for road driving. What you have to be careful of is that some places will buy these blanks and then drill them themselves and charge you 2x the $. That's fine and dandy, but if they don't pay attention, i.e. - properly design their product, then you'll get a rotor that is drilled right through the structural support = bad news all the way around. I read an article about this that went into great detail and provided examples, I'll post back up if I can find it...
