Got h&r sportline drop, I need an aligntment but I dont wanna pay for just toe adjustment so Im looking at some camber kits,

I want something that will be as strong as OEM but provide some adjustability, So far Im leaning towards the Tsuedo kit or something like it. what I dont want is something that will cause bumpsteer or have problems down the road, its my daily driver and I want the peice of mind that I have good strong suspension parts.

here is the tsuedo kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

for the rear I was going to do the washer trick...


Any experince or stories good or bad would be great, If anyone knows of the toughest camber kit out let me know, I dont have to replace the whole A-arm but Its the same price as the ingalls and the ingalls dont look very strong.

Thanks

here is the car with the springs on it.

 

i got skunk2 front and SPC rear camber. no problems so far. btw both are adjustable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00IntegrAllmotoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got skunk2 front and SPC rear camber. no problems so far. btw both are adjustable</TD></TR></TABLE>

when you get SK2, make sure its NEW design(with x-tra plate on top). rear you can do washer trick to save $90.(it may not be perfect. .1 or .2 off from the 0' camber) but no big deal

 

which one is the new design

this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

or this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

Is the skunk2 better or the tsuedo????
I want the BEST

What about ingals?

 

which one is which Skunk 2 site has pics of only 1

 

honestly dude your camber isnt bad at all, your not even that low, id say just get your toe zero'd out and be don with it, ell i got almost -3 front and have had no abnormal signs of wear on my tires.

 

Exactly, just get your TOE in set correct and guaranteed your tires will wear out evenly. Unless your heart is set on a camber kit then look into Omniman which are basically Skunk2's but cheaper--same quality.

If I had a choice back then (they didn't have Omnis) I would of chosen the Omnis over the Skunks that I have now (Im pretty slammed and I still have negative camber with the settings maxxed out).

 

none are new one.

this is the NEW design
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

 

Aight then the back doesnt seem to need it the front isnt that bad but I can tell I have some negative camber

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aight then the back doesnt seem to need it the front isnt that bad but I can tell I have some negative camber</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock hondas have neg. camber...also negative camber helps in the corners. im about to take my front kit off and go back to my negative 4 degrees.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
stock hondas have neg. camber...also negative camber helps in the corners. im about to take my front kit off and go back to my negative 4 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really? i know it helps in the corners but why take your kit off?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Really? i know it helps in the corners but why take your kit off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea hondas have a slight amount of negative camber, i believe with in -1 degree is within spec.

clearnce problems with my drop i also want more camber, i liked the car better when i had the -4 degrees.

 

plus Im only going to run 15" wheels so hopefully the tire will Wear okay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus Im only going to run 15" wheels so hopefully the tire will Wear okay </TD></TR></TABLE>

same size im running and im fine

 

why did you like negative camber more?
handling ride?

I thought 0 camber would be best but that shows how much I know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by low430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why did you like negative camber more?
handling ride?

I thought 0 camber would be best but that shows how much I know</TD></TR></TABLE>

i felt i had more control while in the corners,(had more of a better footprint)

 

HAHAH u don't need a camber kit

 

Camber itself will not wear out tires (given your toe is in spec). However, excessive camber will. Were talking JDM DoRiFt0 setups here. Anyhow, as long as your toe settings are set, your tires will wear evenly. Doesn't matter if you have 18" rims vs 14" steelies.

 

Omni or skunk2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Camber itself will not wear out tires (given your toe is in spec). However, excessive camber will. Were talking JDM DoRiFt0 setups here. Anyhow, as long as your toe settings are set, your tires will wear evenly. Doesn't matter if you have 18" rims vs 14" steelies.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this guy is right. but evenly mean here is all 4 tire will wear out same mount of time. but it wil still wear out inside more than outside of tire.

 

Speaking of camber kits on ebay has anyone had any experience with these types?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

They seem cheap and decent enough to use, pretty much like the ingalls kit that everyone recommends too. I want people who have used and had experienced with them to comment. Dont just go saying that they're crap just because they're from ebay

Its not like im trying to say a bit of penny and not get the likes of skunk2 but being an international member shipping on something like that would rip a whole in my pocket, not to forget my country's tight customs tax rules.

 

i used a kit similar to that from e-bay, just a cheap brand, no problems, the rear can be done with longer bolts and a few washers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rkrone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used a kit similar to that from e-bay, just a cheap brand, no problems, the rear can be done with longer bolts and a few washers

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats nice to know then.

How long has it been? does it squeek bad like everyone says??

 

As mentioned before, camber kit is not needed for you low430. A car w/ -2 deg. camber is going to handle better than with straight up 0 camber.

I personally did not want to deal with the possibility of slipping, the possibility of squeeking, or having to mess with setting a camber kit, so therefore I have never used one.

Now, if you really need adjustability at autocross or road course events, and you have a portable camber guage that will allow you make field adjustments to dial in settings, then by all means get a camber kit, but otherwise you don't need it. Just get the car aligned at a good shop, and make SURE they give you a printout w/ both before and after readings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As mentioned before, camber kit is not needed for you low430. A car w/ -2 deg. camber is going to handle better than with straight up 0 camber.

I personally did not want to deal with the possibility of slipping, the possibility of squeeking, or having to mess with setting a camber kit, so therefore I have never used one.

Now, if you really need adjustability at autocross or road course events, and you have a portable camber guage that will allow you make field adjustments to dial in settings, then by all means get a camber kit, but otherwise you don't need it. Just get the car aligned at a good shop, and make SURE they give you a printout w/ both before and after readings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

same with me....i made the mistake about putting in the spc adj. ball joints and now i have clearance problems with the adjusting nut hitting the top of the tower, i either have to step them up or just take them out completely and buy new upper arms, my old ball-joints were bad, thats why i opted with the spc ones.


Modified by projectTeG at 9:32 PM 10/25/2005