<U>I will try to be as comprehensive as I can be in stating my problem with not having vtec engage. </U> If I missed something, please ask and I will answer it.

The motor is a d16z6 (obd1 p28, rywire conversion harness). Obviously, for some reason the vtec does not engage. There are no codes. When I put a 12 volt source to the solenoid, it clicks. I cleaned the little oil filter it has.

Next, some problems. The oil I am using is 20-w50, would that be a problem? The vtec solenoid leaks oil (it leaks on the back side of the solenoid, closest to the firewall). So I put some RTV silicon around where the 3 10mm bolts are to create a gasket, the leak stoped. Could that be a problem, if so how can I solve it? I also do not know my oil pressure, as I do not have a gauge, I am strongly considering that as the problem. Next, the engine is burning oil (about 1.5-2 quarts every 3000 miles), and this would lower compression, a problem there?

Lastly, I decided, hey, why not open up my ecu and see if there is something wrong there. So I open it up and it has some weird white **** on the inside of the front cover. Pic:

And here is the pic of the ecu.

Any help at all is appreciated.

 

ANTHRAX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!

 

use an ohm meter and make sure none of the wiring is bad
and make sure your cts is working

 

how do u know its not engaging, did u hook up the right wires for vtec? z6 engagement is like 4100

 

Call me at the Rywire #
VTEC Gasket is from a 91 NSX, Part #: 15825-PR3-005
Can get it from any ole honda dealership's parts dept. Or online at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

 

white **** looks like you maybe had a water leak

 

YES call Peter! He and Ryan are the **** to this stuff!!

But too, you NEED to figure out your oil pressure! Because it will NOT engage until that is correct per the sensor's specs!

 

u can disable the vtec pressure switch, to rule it out.

just splice the vtec press wire into the vtec solenoid wire. at the ecu. dont even run the pressrue wire to the engine bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solfly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use an ohm meter and make sure none of the wiring is bad
and make sure your cts is working</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is a cts?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InJ3cted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do u know its not engaging, did u hook up the right wires for vtec? z6 engagement is like 4100 </TD></TR></TABLE>

It all came in the kit, and I know that rywire knows their ****. Its no engaging because I cant feel or hear it. I have felt it crossover before, I went to the track and ran 16.5 with a 2.3 60' without a misshift. (I should be running low 15s to high 14s)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call me at the Rywire # </TD></TR></TABLE>

That wont be a problem.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">white **** looks like you maybe had a water leak
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope nope, that is my worst fear, and I hope if it was a water leak, it did not damage the ecu electronics. I bought it from a guy that was kinda shady.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can disable the vtec pressure switch, to rule it out.

just splice the vtec press wire into the vtec solenoid wire. at the ecu. dont even run the pressrue wire to the engine bay.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good Idea, never even knew about doing that. The first thing I planned on doing was seeing if the ecu sent a 12v signal to the solenoid. If it does not, I can test the pressure switch method. If it does, I know its something in the engine.

 

You might have to buy a new vtec solenoid it self bro, they can burn up. My friend who knows another friend had a switch he rigged up too his to flip on or off for when he raced, and well he left it on and it was toast from what i heard. Vtec solenoids aren't cheap either for that matter, somewhere around a 100$ somethin from the dealer.

 

Also did you try letting the car warm up or do a couple test runs down the road first?. I heard storys of having to let you're motor warm up to the middle mark "or close" too that for Vtec to engage. The oil pressure and temp need to be just right, but it should kick it and haul pretty good.

 

Next, some problems. The oil I am using is 20-w50, would that be a problem?

y u running such a thick *** oil??? 5w-30 or 10w-30 should be used

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Contender25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also did you try letting the car warm up or do a couple test runs down the road first?. I heard storys of having to let you're motor warm up to the middle mark "or close" too that for Vtec to engage. The oil pressure and temp need to be just right, but it should kick it and haul pretty good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know the car needs to be at operating temp for vtec to kick on. Give me the benefit of the doubt for that atleast. I never rev the engine past 2k rpm until I see the needle on the guage move above the white line. Vtec never kicks on.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xmunxjai648 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y u running such a thick *** oil??? 5w-30 or 10w-30 should be used</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use thick oil and my car still burns enough oil. It will burn considerably more oil if I go lighter weight (i.e. 5w30, 10w30). I will prbably do an engine rebuild next summer. I know the piston rings are worn out. When I was doing the swap, I had the head milled and new valve seals put in, so I know my head is in good condition.

 

Just checkin to see if you know, but thats good i hope you find out whats up. Btw it wouldn't really matter what vicosity oil he is using, it should still kick on regardless.

 

I know this kinda off topic but where did you run the 16.5 at and what car is the Z6 in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know this kinda off topic but where did you run the 16.5 at and what car is the Z6 in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ran it near sea level at Orlando Speedway...in Orlando. The Z6 is in a 1990 Civic Hatchback STD.

 

i drive a crx si with a mini me I/E only and ran 15 flat. vtec engagement is also at 5100 for a p28. and yea replace the gasket on the solenoid since it all works on oil preassure and such

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rexified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i drive a crx si with a mini me I/E only and ran 15 flat. vtec engagement is also at 5100 for a p28. and yea replace the gasket on the solenoid since it all works on oil preassure and such</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I am going to put the gasket on in the first place as I think I never even had one. I will also replacee the O-ring (that black one that looks like a weird figure 8) and the mini oil filter there in the solenoid.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

coolant temp sensor

 

wow looks green by the ecu connectors... corrosion? that might be a possible problem at the ecu, if other stuff doesnt' fix the problem do try a different vtec ecu.... also, change that vtec solenoid gasket... its freakin expensive at like $20, but just do it and don't pull the solenoid off unless you have to lol...