Wondered if any EF people have had to put longer wheel studs on their car? If you did or did not pull the hub?
What about the rear?

It's because of my new wheels not that I'm about to run slicks or anything.

My friend yesterday tried to grind his out (the cheatin way) and ended up messing up several studs so he's goin to a shop now, but if EF's are easier, I'd like to hear.

(I have new wheel bearings already in there so I really don't want to mess them up.)

 

yes you will have to pull the hub but if you do it carefully you wont mess uo the bearing last winter i put extened studs on my ef all the way around i got the studs from skunks 2 reminder press them in the hub then also read the directions some extened studs require a tac weld on the back of each stud to ensure it does not come loose

 

tac welds? they shouldn't if they fit the hub exactly?

i want to remove mine if ever needed.

lug nuts will hold them tight, no welding should be necessary

 

The reason for the tack weld is on some of the cheaper wheel studs the splines or knurls will start to get worn down on the stud. So there is a chance the stud could just start spinning freely. The lugnut might keep the stud in place, but once you have to take the lug not off it will just spin and spin while you try to loosen it. I've heard this problem is common with Skunk2 wheel studs, but I haven't heard of anybody having to tack weld their ARP wheel studs.

 

Just get stock REAR studs off of a 96-98 Accura TL-3.2. They'll fit perfectly on both front and rear on an EF and give you the extended length needed.



If you can find an auto parts store that carries Dorman brand the P/N is 610-408.

I changed mine out w/o removing any hubs. Pull the disks (or drums), pound the old one out (one or two good whacks w/ a 5lb sledge worked fine for me), slide the new one in, thread a nut onto it and tighten the nut w/ an impact gun to pull the new stud into place. Usually you have to rotate the wheel to a certain position to line up with a spot that has the clearance behind it.

 

I used some ARP studs for mine, they are really strong. I highly recommend them.

I had the hubs off when I did mine, take off the brake heat/dust shield, and knock them out one by one with the hammer. There's a specific spot on the knuckle where they'll slide out easily, rotate each stud around to this point as you hammer them out, and then back in of course.

What do you need extended lugs for? Are you trying to clear a big brake kit? Otherwise I really don't see the point.

 

i got skunk 2 for the look but would not recommend to any one i would like to go to the arp ones same with the skunk2 lug nuts they are light but they are poor quality

 

i have the ARP studs, and buddyclub nuts.

the buddyclub nuts are WAY better than the skunks, and are every bit as light, and look better, longer.

 

louie b. thanks for the p# for the 3.2 TL studs, that was my plan in the first place. I think i can find someone who carries that brand. I still have to measure to see if it will give me the length I need for these....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What do you need extended lugs for? Are you trying to clear a big brake kit? Otherwise I really don't see the point.</TD></TR></TABLE>


The offset if +35 so it needs longer studs. Basically it's a thick disk so that's what's needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Louie B. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just get stock REAR studs off of a 96-98 Accura TL-3.2. They'll fit perfectly on both front and rear on an EF and give you the extended length needed.



If you can find an auto parts store that carries Dorman brand the P/N is 610-408.

I changed mine out w/o removing any hubs. Pull the disks (or drums), pound the old one out (one or two good whacks w/ a 5lb sledge worked fine for me), slide the new one in, thread a nut onto it and tighten the nut w/ an impact gun to pull the new stud into place. Usually you have to rotate the wheel to a certain position to line up with a spot that has the clearance behind it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or if you are putting the studs in a previously used hub, try Dorman part number 610-323 (12M1.50, X 55mm X 12.67mm knurl diameter). 1996 Chevy Cavalier rear stud. This is what I use on my street car and race car and have had excellent success with them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or if you are putting the studs in a previously used hub, try Dorman part number 610-323 (12M1.50, X 55mm X 12.67mm knurl diameter). 1996 Chevy Cavalier rear stud. This is what I use on my street car and race car and have had excellent success with them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i might have better luck with finding a domestic p# locally


I called orilley's and advanced auto parts and they couldn't help me even though they carried dormans

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_madman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i might have better luck with finding a domestic p# locally


I called orilley's and advanced auto parts and they couldn't help me even though they carried dormans</TD></TR></TABLE>

If they carry the Dorman line, just have them order the part number. No need to explain what you are doing....I have found "explaining things" only leads to confused parts counter clerks.

 

yeah i just try to call ahead before i go down there to save time money and gas


If cavilier studs work then I see why not to use them.

 

i did the long arp's when i did new front wheel berrings. i dont think you could sneak the long arp's in behind the hub. i did it just in case and sure enough i have to now use spacers to clear 2 of 3 sets of wheels.

 

turns out the 3.2TL studs are the only ones out there that are the exact length I need. ARP/skun2/cavalier's are all too long for my setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16_madman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turns out the 3.2TL studs are the only ones out there that are the exact length I need. ARP/skun2/cavalier's are all too long for my setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

just curious what your setup is? Just for reference...

 

see above posts /\

that big shiny thing

 

So they hit the center cap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So they hit the center cap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if i measured correctly they would

 

Wheel offset shouldn't have much to do with the length of the studs. It's the centerpoint of the wheel compared to the hart. If the studs are too short, the hart of the rim is too thick. You can have it turned/shimmed/balanced and should be fine.
This will bring the wheel more inwards, also compensating for the improper offset .
You should never run anything lower than +40-+50 on your honda. You'll kill your bearings in a hurry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No need to explain what you are doing....I have found "explaining things" only leads to confused parts counter clerks. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Truth!!!! I never actually tell them what car I have. I just pretend i have the car for the part I am looking for.. They almost NEVER understand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wheel offset shouldn't have much to do with the length of the studs. It's the centerpoint of the wheel compared to the hart. If the studs are too short, the hart of the rim is too thick. You can have it turned/shimmed/balanced and should be fine.
This will bring the wheel more inwards, also compensating for the improper offset .
You should never run anything lower than +40-+50 on your honda. You'll kill your bearings in a hurry.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I was to make the centers thinner, the rim would interfere with the knuckle. As is, it's going to be a tight fit.
Bearings last a long time, with the wheels I'll shorten it some. Thanks though, but don't hate the lip, you know you like it.

 

I like the lip. Too bad the rest of the wheel is ugly as sin.

 

yeah im not 100% sold on them yet, but hey, i'll rock them for a while