I have an 89 CRX SI that I am doing a 90 Teg rear disc swap on. How do you get the original Bushing out and then get the center metal peg off that you reuse,, The Energy Suspention has you reuse it? Or can you buy a new Center peg? Also how much of the old do you remover or cut out? Any feed back would be great.

First option: Energy Suspension how easy is this option?
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Second Option Prothane, Has anyone used them? They look to small to fit in...

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Are you talking about the rear trailing arm bushing? If so you need a hydralic press to get the bushing and metal sleeve out. It can be a huge PITA, you might also need a torch to heat up the metal sleeve.

 

you can do it the press way, or what i did was cut/burn out the center peg. then you have to completely clean off the peg, burn out the remainder of the oem bushing. you need a large bolt and two large washers, lube the new bushing with the supplied lube, and use the bolt and washers to pull the new bushing in place, its a bit of work, but worth it.

edit: this is for energy suspension


Modified by speeddave at 6:22 PM 10/22/2005

 

That's odd...because when I installed my ES bushings, the instructions clearly stated that you were to cut out the old bushing and leave the metal sleeve in the trailing arm. That's how I installed them on mine, using the long bolt and washer installation method to squeeze it into place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stickershop.ca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's odd...because when I installed my ES bushings, the instructions clearly stated that you were to cut out the old bushing and leave the metal sleeve in the trailing arm. That's how I installed them on mine, using the long bolt and washer installation method to squeeze it into place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

same here.... worked okay, pain in the butt though all said and done.. lol and I used a sharpened chisel bit on an air impact hammer to get the old rubber bushing cut free of the trailing arm. a torch will accomplish nothing but make a bunch of smoke... unless you have a really really hot torch other than propane heh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapJunkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT SIZE="3"><FONT COLOR="green">Got to workin on installing the new Energy Suspension rear trailing arm bushings today. Pass. Side done

People say you have to press out the oem bushing w/ the outer shell that surrounds the rubber, but with these bushings you dont do so. I cut out the old rubber bushing w/ an air saw,used a grinder to get all the rubber off the oem pin, lubed that bushing and pressed it in. This job only took me like half an hour. Saved myself $65 by sticking w/ these and doing the lil extra cake work then going w/ the Prothane bushings










</FONT></FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>

 

You don't want to use a poly bushing in that location. Do a search to find out why. It is widely accepted that the OEM or Mugen bushing is the way to go there.

 

put your new bushings in the freezer for a night or so.

they'll shrink.

Heat up the metal piece, add some lube et voila!

or something like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't want to use a poly bushing in that location. Do a search to find out why. It is widely accepted that the OEM or Mugen bushing is the way to go there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where did you get this info? Has anyone else heard of this?

I thing with the tools I have access to I'll cut it out then grind offthe rubber from the peg...

I have looked in a lot of places and can't find the new ones for sale has anyone else?

 

I was going to say something about the poly bushing in the rear control arm, but I figured you wouldn't care. The poly bushings in the rear control arm allow very little movement. They make the car a little unpredictable if you autox or do road racing perhaps. I would recommend just buying stock ones since they are like $20 each, but you already had the poly ones. If its for a daily driver I really wouldn't worry about it.

 

Hey whats up Cory.

The urethane bushing may feel tighter initially, but the suspension gets "twitchy" when you push it harder. Doesnt allow enough flex.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't want to use a poly bushing in that location. Do a search to find out why. It is widely accepted that the OEM or Mugen bushing is the way to go there.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i've used both. i agree.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stickershop.ca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's odd...because when I installed my ES bushings, the instructions clearly stated that you were to cut out the old bushing and leave the metal sleeve in the trailing arm. That's how I installed them on mine, using the long bolt and washer installation method to squeeze it into place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

oops you are right, its been a while since i did it and i couldnt remember if that one you cut the sleeve or not. thanks for the correction

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i've used both. i agree.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't. The reer feels more secure. If you're stiffening up the car anyway this is a good upgrade.

It -is- more twitchy however. Not good for 'over confident drivers" (politically correct statement) or daily drivers who like comfort.

 

I wouldn't say it is a "feel" issue, rather an issue of allowing the suspension to move as it was designed to....which is on a multi-axis. If you use the poly bushing, you WILL have binding issues and that is where the "twitchy" feeling comes from.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't. The reer feels more secure. If you're stiffening up the car anyway this is a good upgrade.

It -is- more twitchy however. Not good for 'over confident drivers" (politically correct statement) or daily drivers who like comfort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm not sure what you are trying to infer here. my experience is with a csp crx that is (was ) set up quite loose. the poly bushings did not feel right, and they were slower when i compared my times with people in my class before and after the switch. i changed after seeing how they don't allow the suspension to work the way it was designed, and my times backed it up.

other opinions are clearly out there and i won't say they are wrong, but the poly ta bush's clearly dont allow for the movement the suspension was designed for. maybe that's good for somebody, but it made me slower.

this topic has been covered a lot in other forums, so i'm going to leave it at this and let the search button be your friend.

 

i like the energy bushing, only cause i like driving in straight lines

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm not sure what you are trying to infer here. my experience is with a csp crx that is (was ) set up quite loose. the poly bushings did not feel right, and they were slower when i compared my times with people in my class before and after the switch. i changed after seeing how they don't allow the suspension to work the way it was designed, and my times backed it up.

other opinions are clearly out there and i won't say they are wrong, but the poly ta bush's clearly dont allow for the movement the suspension was designed for. maybe that's good for somebody, but it made me slower.

this topic has been covered a lot in other forums, so i'm going to leave it at this and let the search button be your friend. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that totally depends on the use of your car. I take my car to the track. I'm not weaving in and out of cones...so I don't really miss any advantages when trying to squirm through turns that tight. Even tho it's a short track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think that totally depends on the use of your car. I take my car to the track. I'm not weaving in and out of cones...so I don't really miss any advantages when trying to squirm through turns that tight. Even tho it's a short track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the same behavior applies to cars on circuit tracks.

its not to say that the poly bushing makes the car useless, or makes the rear suspension not work at all. its just limits the suspensions movement, makes rear end move differently than it would otherise normal. thats why ppl get such drastic results when changing to poly ("oh my god, the difference is awesome" "best mod ever!" kind of replies, if there wasnt such a difference, they wouldnt be saying such things.) i know of several CRX racers who use the poly TA bushing for autox and for track and are quite successful. but you have to recognize that it does inherently restrict the normal movement of the suspension. one same person who uses the poly TA bushing refuses to use the poly bushings on the front LCA because the knows it binds there and cant accept that (change in caster). there he uses sphericals.

 

You will ahve to have t pressed out.but if you go to a decent machine shop they shold be able to ruse the "peg"