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Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change?

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Old 04-02-2003, 04:08 PM
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Default Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change?

I did my suspension recently and noticed that the rear bushings are totally shot. Should I just get an aftermarket control arm or just replace the bushings? How hard is it to change both the trailing arm and control arm bushings? Thanks guys.
Old 04-02-2003, 04:18 PM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (RacerBoy)

i will tell u this the trailing arm is a bitch i have to do the other side still cause i broke one but its a bitch once its out its easy to put the new one in
Old 04-02-2003, 05:23 PM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (JdMB16Ahatch)

The entire process of replaing of TA bushings took me about two hours, including the removal of the arms and the install. you will need a torch, chisel, handsaw and a roll of sand paper. burn the bushings out, cut the sleeves and clean the surface with sandpaper.
stan
Old 04-02-2003, 06:46 PM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (90crxsi)

how many ppl make replacement bushings, i need some for the lca's i havent checked around yet but is energy suspension the only ppl that make them or would i be able to get some cheapos at auto zone or somthing like that
Old 04-02-2003, 07:04 PM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (b1reed)

Are 90-93 Integra TA bushings the same as the stock Civic ones. Cuz I ordered some for the 90-93 Integra (I have rear discs) and they sent me some that on the back of the package specifically says the 90-93 Integra ones are different than the package they sent me. How gay.


[Modified by FourthGenHatch, 4:09 AM 4/3/2003]
Old 04-02-2003, 07:27 PM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (FourthGenHatch)

Do yourself a favor and go with the prothanes. They press in and out, and are WAY easier to install. The bushing is tapered and if you have a press it's easy to remove and replace. Just remember it's TAPERED, or you will render your trailing arm useless. I've done all the bushings on my ZC/DX Rex for autocross and you definately feel the difference.

Mark
Old 04-02-2003, 07:37 PM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (markw)

Yeah...Prothane
Old 04-02-2003, 08:01 PM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (EF_LSVtec)

how much are prothane bushings for lca's and where can i find some?
Old 04-03-2003, 05:20 AM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (b1reed)

What about the rear LCA's and bushings?
Old 04-03-2003, 06:42 AM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (RacerBoy)

Prothane costs more than twice the amount of ES don't they?
Old 04-03-2003, 06:55 AM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (sporkcrx)

Don't Prothanes come with a new pin already installed on them?
Old 04-03-2003, 07:17 AM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (90crxsi)

The entire process of replaing of TA bushings took me about two hours, including the removal of the arms and the install. you will need a torch, chisel, handsaw and a roll of sand paper. burn the bushings out, cut the sleeves and clean the surface with sandpaper.
stan
Exactly 90crxsi......I've got the Energy Suspension Full Kit on my CRX it was around $120 and the trailing arm bushings are sold separetly around $30. Just like 90crxsi said they are'nt that hard too put in, Hell I did'nt even use a press just used my bench vise and a socket to push them in. And man it really stiffens up your suspension and makes for a better handling ride.
Old 04-03-2003, 08:06 AM
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Default Re: Rear trailing arm and control arm bushings...hard to change? (Rex_Dragon)

I don't understand why you people say that prothane is better. IMHO, they are both the same. I've installed both. Yea, you reuse your center pin in ES but so what.
To get the old ones out, do yourself a favour and take the the arm out. You could leave it on if you have a hoist. If you're working with floor jacks, take it out.
Your best bet is to use WOOD chisel and to get the rest off, get a metal wire wheel and scrape it all off that way. No need for fire and stinky fumes.
For the lower arms, all my bolts were rusted so the inner sleeve would turn with the bolt pushing the sides of the brackets out on which the arms are bolted to. I had to cut the bolts out. A word of advice, when cutting the bolts, make sure you leave at least 1/4" so that you can grab it with vise grip and get it out!
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