I own a swapped 95 accord lx (H22A engine and tranny, 5 speed)

I havent had a chance to dyno or even tune it because I am having problems finding a set of wheels to fit over my 6 pot caliper brake kit. Racing hart takes literally months to custom fit a set of wheels, so who knows when the car will hit the streets. Untill then I want to know if anyone can guess what the car will hit on the dyno. I am looking for 250 at the wheels. BTW, when the engine was first swapped, it actually dyno'ed at 189, Stock.

Here is my engine mod list.

I installed a pair of skunk2, stage 2 cams, portflow springs, titanium retainers, Skunk2 intake manifold, 69mm throttle body, 6puck clutch, injen CAI,Greddy headers,AEM fuel rail and filter , 255lhp fuel pump, Fidanza 8 lb flywheel, Hondata manifold gasket, 75 shot NOS wet kit, MSD SCI ignition box and ignition wires, NGK spark plugs,Koyo aluminum radiator, Apexi N-1 exhaust, hi flow cat, Apexi V-AFC, UR pulleys, AEM cam gears, and a reprogrammed ECU with no governor, and 8100 Redline.

Whats the DAMAGE????


Modified by 01blakAc at 11:07 AM 10/27/2005

 

250whp on the juice is realistic, but i doubt your gonna get anywehr near there all motor.

 

I figured that without the bottle, it will be very low 200hp, since the block is stock. I also forgot to mention the port and polished head, but that really doesnt make much of a difference anyway. But 250 whp on the bottle is my current goal

 

yah that sounds definitely doable, i would guestimate you'd be around the low 200s with ur **** all motor, add on the juice you should hit your goal no problem

 

thanks man. i was hoping I wouldnt have a problem

 

not real sure why you are running the reprogrammed ecu with the vafc, but ok...as for your question, i'm assuming that setup is really only good for 220ish to be honest...the 250 hp setups usually involve heavy modification to the bottom end as well...since you are running the stock h22 pistons (10.6 : 1 ) i don't really see 250 hp being feasable...

 

youre saying 220hp with the juice?

 

i got 200 stock on my h22

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not real sure why you are running the reprogrammed ecu with the vafc</TD></TR></TABLE>

a vafc cant control ignition timing, so with the chip it could have ignition advance or retard for nitrous, although it dosent appear that it was the chip was taylored to his setup...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01blakAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youre saying 220hp with the juice?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, 220 without...didn't read the rest of the thread...

 

what HP percentage do you usually loose through the drivetrain?

 

how did you fit the skunk2 intake manifold on im having fitment problems theres not enough room its too close to the fire wall for a sensor it hits. what did you do?

 

how did you fit the skunk2 intake manifold on im having fitment problems theres not enough room its too close to the fire wall for a sensor it hits. what did you do?

 

how did you fit the skunk2 intake manifold on im having fitment problems theres not enough room its too close to the fire wall for a sensor it hits. what did you do?

 

how did you fit the skunk2 intake manifold on im having fitment problems theres not enough room its too close to the fire wall for a sensor it hits. what did you do?

 

my bad, LOL.
At first, I loosened the front engine mount and pushed the motor forward, but that was a waste of time. After hours of frustration and cursing, I found out that all I had to do was take off a few black brackets found in the drivers side of the firewall, behind the manifold and just manuever the manifold in the right angle to get it to drop right in. Dont get too pissed off when putting it in, because it will eventually fit, you just have to remove some minor unnecessary parts. The BIGGEST pain in the *** is re-connecting the hoses correctly. It took me damn near a week of figuring that part out. WORD OF ADVISE; Take a picture of all the hose connections before anything is taken off or moved. IF you dont, you will end up with a lawn ornament because your car will not move. But hey, once you figure it out the first time, it is pretty easy.

 

I also forgot to mention that with the intake manfold put in, your CAI will not fit without proper adjustments. The Skunk2 has longer flanges and sits the CAI further back in the engine bay. Just wanted to fore warn you.

 

search for b16supertuner He built an all motor R. took him 3 years, he did it the right way researching which parts to buy. he put down 214whp tuned by Tom Payn on a mustang dyno. I know the h22 would probably respond better to mods but without spray I would say you are somewhere around 210-215-220?? And you can say goodbye to torque with that 8lb flywheel. I am jealous of your mods though. I just swapped the h in my accord and have neglected it since.

 

Yeah, I was afraid of loosing torque with that flywheel. I was getting so many mixed reviews of a flywheel that light, but the price was so good that I had to buy it. ($150 shipped). I was also told that the flywheel will cause my RPM's to drop faster in between gears, which cant be good during acceleration

 

what is the proper ajustments? thats where im stuck . shops were telling me to cut the intake manifold. im not even going to say what i told them to do. so my car just sits awaiting an answer. did you dent the fire wall to get the sensor to fit? does it still hit the fire wall on hard shifts? thank you for your help

 

 

nice car..... ....it would look even nicer with a carbon fiber trunk lid!!!

 

working on the trunk but for now many other things take priority over the trunk

 

here is what you have to recognize, not all performance parts are good for every type of racing. for drag racing, you would want a stock flywheel to keep that torque, for road racing(course racing) a lightened flywheel you could benifit from.

 

Cut the Manifold? where did they want you to cut it? and why did they say do that? I did no cutting whatsoever. I havent had any problem with the manifold hitting anything after I removed the brackets. As for the CAI, you probably just want it to get "re-bent" to fit the engine bay due to the size of the skunk manifold. I will try to take some pics and show you how my manifold fits in my engine bay.