My previous H22a1 blew up on me as some of you may know, and i just got a h22a with a spun bearing which i will be building up. I already have the crower stg3 cam, and sk2 valve springs and retainers. As for the block and pistons go, any suggestions???

I want highes possible compression on pump gas (93 around here) and reliability.
Im thinkin 89mm bore with darton sleeves, JE 11.5 pistons, eagle rods.

Anyone got advice for what i should put into my motor?


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1474662

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93h22a1vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im thinkin 89mm bore with darton sleeves, JE 11.5 pistons, eagle rods.
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Sounds pretty good

Or if your on less of a budget, just go with 87.25 mm Type-S pistons (11.0:1), and reuse the stock rods.

 

try to find 2.3 crank,rods, and oversized h22 pistons. this way, no need to sleeve block, will still have very good comp. to run pump gas, and in the right car would be very nasty. make sure to stay w/ stock cams if going this way! if you still want to go aftermarket and spend a little more let me know, i have a freshly sleeved block, eagle h22 rods brand new still in box. could make a great deal and save you some money!

 

Importsports, what kinda block is that, and also, y stay with stock cams?

And, does anyone know if its worth doin a 2mm bore?

 

He's talking about the H23 crank it's got a 95 mm stroke instead of the H22's 90.7 mm stroke.

The F22A uses the same crank and rods as the H23, I would go that route, heck of alot easier to find an F22 block.

It depends on what you want from your motor before I say whether to go H23 crank or H22 crank.

What are your goals? What's the car used for?

 

Its a daily driver for work and school, and then some fun on the weekends. Im lookin for the most power i can get out of a NA, but still be reliable, and run on pump gas. Money is not TOOO much of an issue, im thinkin about 3g for all the motor work, and then about another grand in ecu and tuning

 

and im lookin for around 250whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93h22a1vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and im lookin for around 250whp </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think for 250whp you'll prob need 12:1 + compression, so only a forged piston will get you those numbers....

 

how about post up what you guys are running and dyno numbers, i am also planning on ditching my turbo for an N/A setup.

 

all motor daily driver, 2.3 crank is definately the way to go. have to keep stock cams because h22 pistons w/ h23 crank, rods will come out of the hole a little. you will still be fine with stock headgasket since its not a large overbore and using a stock cumbustion chamber head, so piston to head wont be a problem, but going w/ a higher lift cam will cause valve to pioston issues. 250 may be asking for a little too much prbly looking at more like 230-240 w/ tunning on pump gas can be reached w/ this setup, already has been done. also nasty tq. is the main reason this setup is perfect for the street. and w/ using stock cams, you will still keep all midrange power and wont have to rev any higher than 7500 rpm. put this setup in a 2000 lb hatch w/ a good susp. setup and a good driver and low 12s- 11.80s are no prob. This too has also already been done. almost forgot to add, intake and exhaust manifolds make a huge diff. recomend hytech ex. man. this put down 20 whp on dyno alone. if you are interested in any parts for h series or if you just need a hand or have any questions feel free to give us a call.

 

im asking about the h23 crank and rod and h22 pistons setups, will the compression be higher or about the same as an h22 with type-s pistons?

 

with the stock cam issue, if i use a piston that has bigger notches for the valves, would i be okay with a say... 480ish lift cam? (crower stg3, i forgot the stats on it)

 

I would just stay with the H22 crank...

1: You dont have to worry about the piston to valve clearances as much

2: You can spin the motor high enough to make use of the Stage 3 cams.
The H23 crank can do it too, but theres more risk of failure involved.

3: It's only ~100 cc less displacement. An 89 mm bore would get you close to
2.3L all by itself.

 

If you want 250 whp you will need much deeper pockets...$4k won't be close to enough.