Ive been seeing alot of threads lately pertaining to ls/vtec setups and hitting a certain whp figure and still being reliable, so i decided to post this up. My setup consists of a b18a block with ITR pistons, stock LS rods w/ ARP rods bolts. Unmilled unported gsr head w/ portflow valve job, omnipower flat faced valves, dual valve springs, ti retainers, skunk2 pro1 cams. Hondata s200 has been used to tune the engine with RC 310cc injectors. Roughly 11.5:1 compression.

Well, ive been driving the hatch pretty hard lately, neglecting her ever since my last tuning session. I decided since i had a some free time today, which has been a rarity lately, to do some maintenance and check-ups.

Since id never re-checked the valve lash since the cam installation,about 2 months ago, i did just that. .007 intake, .009 ex. , just where i left them.

Next up was the compression check. She did great cranking out about 245psi straight across all 4 cylinders. Before you say this seems low for my setup take into the account the high lift and duration even on the primary lobes of the skunk2 pro1's and remember not every compression tester reads the same. The key is to look for variation between cylinders. None of my cylinders had more than 3psi difference.

Keep in mind the engine has right around 50-60 dyno pulls on it in addition to the daily driving. Next, just for kicks, i did a leak down test. Every cylinder was 2-3%, so its still sealed very tightly. As you can see, if you take your time, you dont have to spend a ton of money to build a powerful, reliable engine. Now, here are the pics that drew you into this thread.

this is when i had not yet installed the SMSP header...

 

 

Care to add anything else so others might be more inclined to follow along?

Bearing clearances, piston-to-wall clearance, PTV, etc?

Nice clean engine bay too.

 

Bearing clearances all checked out good, i have them written on a sheet somewhere, i dont remember the #'soff hand, but im using standard run of the mill pr4 bearings.

Pitson to wall clearance for all cylinder was right in the .02-.03 area, i do remember that off the top of my head. Piston to valve clearance was not calculated with these cams, this is the 4th set ive had in this engine.

 

nice nice

 

usdm pistons? 3layer head gasket? how much power did it put down?

 

USDM ITR pistons, OE 81mm headgasket.

Put down 215hp 156tq on churches dyna pack.

 

Congrats on an awesome build man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Congrats on an awesome build man </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

 

 

, mileage on the motor?

 

 

nice looking build. Numbers are really good. I'm not trying to take anything away from you when I ask this, but does that dyno read a little higher then others?

 

Nice! I got about 12,000 miles on my build now too after 3 seasons.

ls/vtec w/ forged internals, 12:1 comp, 2 layer gasket, ti valvetrain and big cams. I have no cam/rocker wear, retainers look good, literally 255 dead even across the board.

Who says forged/ high comp motors cant last?? (and mine will scatter tomm just cuz im being confident in my build)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohsin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> , mileage on the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to be an ***, but look at the title of the thread. 12,143 miles.

Yes, churches dynapack reads a little higher than other dynos but its never a solid %. On some setups ive seen a 5hp diff, on some a 20hp diff. I dont want to start talking about that in this thread because it will turn into a 10 page debate.

 

Bump for everyone with hp/reliability ?'s....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for everyone with hp/reliability ?'s....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just over 20K miles on my old all motor setup here

LS/VTEC with stock rods, SRP pistons (11.7:1 SCR), alaniz head, blox B's, blox intake mani, weapon-r race header, 2.5" mandrel bent catback with a ES oval, uberdata. I sold the car to my room mate and between us the motor has just over 20K on it. I don't want to look like an *** and guess some power numbers because I hardly know anything about all motor cars, but I don't think 200-210 WHP is too outrageous of a guess.

My turbo car has been together for just over 15K miles too and it's running 2% or less leakdown in every cylinder, 81.5mm sleeves with wiseco pistons/eagle rods, and a pinch over 400 WHP on pump gas all day every day. I drive my cars fairly hard too, but I take care of them. I have lots of friends who'll get into their car and beat on it before it's warmed up and crap like that. Treat it right and it's gonna treat you right

 

nice to hear! good write up...

 

w3rd...nicenhealthy

 

yo steve, you ever get a graph scanned of your most recent dyno? btw how are those skunk pro1's doing? are they still idling pretty good? I'm in the market for some new cams.. just debating between the bc4's and skunk pro 1 still

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USDM ITR pistons, OE 81mm headgasket.

Put down 215hp 156tq on churches dyna pack.</TD></TR></TABLE>


damn thats a grip of power at a low cost. i wonder how CTR pistons would do

 

right on. thanks for boost'n my confidence in an ls-v build

 

Yeah make sure you find an machine shop that knows what they are doing, and make sure that if ur putting it together yourself you check all your clearances, and once its together get a wideband on it for tuning.

If its put together right theres no real reason it shouldnt be reliable.

 

bump