Ok, here is the deal.... This started right after i did the swap... I have a 97 civic LX with a 97 B18B LS motor swaped in. At first, when i would strt the car cold it would idle fine, then when it warmed up it would surge. I took off the intake and pluged the hole... there is only one... and car sounded like it was going to die, so i let go. Now, when i start the car cold it idles all over the place.

Any way i can check this vlave to see if it fixes the problem?

PLEASE HELP!

 

wuts your setup?

ecu
wirining harness....moified/ not
any plugs not plugged in
etc

 

IACV?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IACV?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i said.....maybe TPS sensor.....and i think there is a sensor for when the motor is cold, but not sure....i think i read that somewhere.....seems like u have no vacuum if it dies when u cover the breather hose outlet....thats what ur covering right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx2nr822 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats what i said.....maybe TPS sensor.....and i think there is a sensor for when the motor is cold, but not sure....i think i read that somewhere.....seems like u have no vacuum if it dies when u cover the breather hose outlet....thats what ur covering right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, the TPS is the throttle position. It shouldn't be the problem, but it might be. Check the voltage at idle. If you need to know the voltage, I can look at my Helms.

The IACV is the thing that allows air to enter the intake even when the throttle plate is closed. If that isn't functioning correctly, then the car might die, due to lack of air coming in.

The other one is the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve). I don't know too much about this, and I think they aren't on all cars. That piece is supposed to determine your idle based on coolant temperature. Definitely wait for more people to chime in about this one because I'm clueless about this piece.

 

have u checked all ur vaccum lines? make sure they are all on nice and snug, maybe u forgot hook one up or something.....make sure all sensors are in their proper place too cause that can screw with how ur car runs

 

UPDATE:
Well now when i start the car it is almost undrivable... the idle is not the problem(at start up) , but i bogs and hesitates like crazy.... help...once the car is warmed up it the idle surges...

if i can find a place to post videos i will post up a video for you guys

ok here is my setup and what i have done to try to fix this probelm

97 civic LX with a B18b (96 integra LS) motor swap
Stock LX wire harness modified to fit the current motor platform
and a P75 ecu

What i have doen
OK, now i have, checked the timing, sanded down all the grounds so bare metal touches eachother, upgraded ground cables, retraced all vacuume lines, cleaned out the screan on the IACV, checked PCV valve... that is all i can think of as of now

What i plan to check
1.Recheck IACV wiring for correctness...just made up a word...,
2.check voltage on MAP sensor
3. check voltage on TPS sensor
4. pray
5. replace IACV

things i have noticed
well the vacuume line that leads from my crusie control thign was unpluged, so i used a bolt to plug the line (no change)...When the swap was done there was a problem with the CKF (crank fluctuation sensor) they fixed it by wiring the CKF into the CAS?(crank angle sensor???) in the dizzy, the code went away to never be heard from again...

no check engine lights to anyone who may ask.

the idle problem is still at large, so keep the sugestions coming

 

Voltage on teh TPS should rear 4.5 if i remember right...
if you checked everything as u say u did and did it right i say its the TPS is its falling on its face ....

remember when you start the car its in open loop so theres more fuel goign it until its warmed up then it goes to closed loop.
or the ither way around onthe loop part i always expletive that one away...

also you IAVC could be messed up as well had that issue b 4 too...

what abotu your valves? teh lashes are ok???? if your valves adjustments are all outta wack it can cause fucked up idles and surging.....

good luck let me know if i can help

 

Unplug the IAC and make sure base idle is set to between 500 and 600 RPM. If it is set too high the IAC will hunt. Plug it back in and clear your codes. Idle should return to 750 and stabalize if this was your problem. FITV is a donut around a thimble that bleeds air when the engine is cold. Sometimes the donut gets loose and must be screwed back down to make it seat properly. IF you suspect the TPS (I don't) and you have a manual trans, unplug it and see if your problem goes away. It will run fine on default. If this is not your problem, plug it back in and clear your code. Vacuum leaks will cause the same problem and make the IAC hunt. The MAP, EGR if it has one, boost valve if it has one, brake booster, cruise control, Intake bypass if it has one, are all sources of vacuum leaks and must hold a vacuum when applied from a pump. VACUUM PRESSURE from the throttle body plenum should be 20 to 22 in. Hg at idle.


Modified by amckee at 12:59 PM 10/21/2005

 

did you do the basic maintenence like cap/rotor, spark plugs gapped to spec? you know the basic stuff......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Jspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you do the basic maintenence like cap/rotor, spark plugs gapped to spec? you know the basic stuff......</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did check the spark polug gap, and it is within the spec. of .040" so that is not the problem... did not change the Cap/rotor... maybe it is my spark plugs, right now they are not NGK... wich i am oging to replace soon... this would not cause an idle like this so intermitently...maybe the bogging, but not the idle?

 

spark plug wires too

 

Could it be my ECU? I am runiing a OBDII P75, is that what i should be using?... also i was thinking it might be an O2 sensor? becasue of the frequency of the diping of the idle... every 30 seconds like right on the mark... also maybe a fuel filter?

going to test all the sensors soon... let me know about the other stuff

 

OK... NEW INFO!

We checked all the sensors... checked the timing (cam and ignition) and we also changed the plug wires, Gaping, and checked the rotor.

so i think i have the wrong ecu...becuase...when i rev the motor under load... slowly climbing all the way through all the RMPs, when it hits 5200 RPMs it bogs, and does not want to go past the that speed...that is when it is not under load, then when it IS under load it does the same thing as it did when it was not under load.

we checked the TPS voltage per repair manual, it checked out.

what do you guys think?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unplug the IAC and make sure base idle is set to between 500 and 600 RPM. If it is set too high the IAC will hunt. Plug it back in and clear your codes. Idle should return to 750 and stabalize if this was your problem. FITV is a donut around a thimble that bleeds air when the engine is cold. Sometimes the donut gets loose and must be screwed back down to make it seat properly. IF you suspect the TPS (I don't) and you have a manual trans, unplug it and see if your problem goes away. It will run fine on default. If this is not your problem, plug it back in and clear your code. Vacuum leaks will cause the same problem and make the IAC hunt. The MAP, EGR if it has one, boost valve if it has one, brake booster, cruise control, Intake bypass if it has one, are all sources of vacuum leaks and must hold a vacuum when applied from a pump. VACUUM PRESSURE from the throttle body plenum should be 20 to 22 in. Hg at idle.


Modified by amckee at 12:59 PM 10/21/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Check the cat also and see if it is clogged. Too much backpressure can limit your revs.

 

well when i changed out the exhaust i checked the cat... so that is not the problem, but i have 2" from the header to the axle back, but the axle back is a stock 1 and 5/8th? do you think that would cause this problem? that is easy to check, just disconnect the muffler?

 

Could it be that i am running my stock D16y7 injecors on a B series motor... becasue in doing my research i found that the Y7 injectors are 190cc/min and the stock integra are 240cc/min??? also maybe a fuel filter?