I finally found another car, So my hatch is going of the road and being built this winter. I know exactly what my setup is going to be, but im looking for some inspiration here. Ive seen a few people running in the 13s, and then tons of 14's and 15s, which are not good enough for me.

Who is running a fully streetable Dseries into the 12s? Could you list your setup please?

 

hey pat
i've got my carbs up for sale over on D-series if you are after some. you'll need more out of the cylinder head than mine to run in the 12's. if i did it again i think i would start with a vtec head and probably lock out the vtec. otherwise the y7 heads share the same size valves as the Z6/Y8, but idk what the ports flow between the three. if i were going to try i would probably run a sleeved block with custom pistons upwards of 78mm bore. probably get ahold of a d17 crank and lighten it. although the 90mm crank might prolong the engines life. thats just what i would do.

http://www.d-series.org/forums...29014

 

it can be done but you will need to pretty much upgrade everything,bigger pistons more stroke cams etc. i dont think you can do it with stock stroke/bore. the fastest i got my sohc in strret trim was 13.5@98

 

lots of headwork,compression, a nice induction(itbs,carbs,custom plenum manifold) and exhaust system-smsp,bisimoto,or one off taiwanese ebay junk won't cut it,and a monsterous cam. now when you get that accomplished you need either a hybrid mista bone style tranny or 4.9 final drive and a chassis that weighs in under or around 2k. the most simple way to accomplish this would be with some a1 or zc pistons on stock rods to keep the weight down. heavy port work from a notable company and a set of cbr throttle bodies with the proper runner size and angles etc. maybe throw in a crower stage 3 for a vtec head or a delta regrind for non vtec head. there is a guy running a similar setup in an ef running 13.1s. i believe bisi was running 12s when his car was still streetable as well.

 

13.1 @101 mph / 2000 lbs w/driver / 22x8x15 MT slicks / 1.8 60 feet
Setup: A6 Block, STD P29 pistons, Z6 head, full valvetrain, ported, Crower 3 cam, CBR 1000rr ITB's (13.1 run on 954rr ITB's), Ebay 4-1 header w/2.5" collector, Chipped PM6 ecu, V-AFC, Innovate LM-1, and every other bolton..I want to take it to the track again, and see if I can dip 12's, but haven't had a chance recently, so gonna have to wait till next year. Here's a video of the 13.1 run : http://www.youtube.com/?v=P5IT0qK6Djo

 

Get ready to spend a lot of money. I hit 12's but in a full-drag car. But that was with a stock bottom end can't wait till next season with my new bottom end. Good luck and have fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey pat
i've got my carbs up for sale over on D-series if you are after some. you'll need more out of the cylinder head than mine to run in the 12's. if i did it again i think i would start with a vtec head and probably lock out the vtec. otherwise the y7 heads share the same size valves as the Z6/Y8, but idk what the ports flow between the three. if i were going to try i would probably run a sleeved block with custom pistons upwards of 78mm bore. probably get ahold of a d17 crank and lighten it. although the 90mm crank might prolong the engines life. thats just what i would do.

http://www.d-series.org/forums...29014</TD></TR></TABLE>

I might be interested in your carbs pat. You already know my old NA D setup, and im looking for something thats just a little more fun.

I don't want to touch the block. Im throwing in some arp rod bolts and leaving everything else untouched in the block. Its an A6, of course.

My main concern right now is the head, I hate the idea of running a vtec cylinder head, but its my best bet to gain compression without dropping alot on a head. Im going to run a y8 head, milled probably .020 with a 2 layer HG, with high comp valves I should be in the neighborhood of 11.5:1.

Other than that nothing really out of the ordinary. Either a carb'd setup like Pat has, or possibly a set of ITB's, an-r or SMPSP header, crower 3 cam/springs/retainers and a massive amount me sitting intfront of a flowbench until I get the numbers I want.

Im going to try and go back to the roots, and make power where its made, in the head.

Sorry for the long read.

 

what is a more wilder cam then the crower stage 3?

 

to my knowledge that is biggest shelf cam you can get, but blox offers semi blank cores now so you could go bigger there i would assume. yeah pat has the right idea power is made in the head thats where your limitations are not the bottom end. speaking of which i finally found some ported d series numbers the other day open chamber(i assume this is a z6) was in the 250s and a y8 was 240s or so. i ve seen claims in the 270s which sounds reasonable if you give your head to the right person AKA brad haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by All Motor Scott &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get ready to spend a lot of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

About how much money??? i wana get into the game... all i have rite now is a extra civic hatch, and good full time with no bills to pay-- scott very nice car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Serdar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is a more wilder cam then the crower stage 3?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bigger is not always better. You need to choose a cam that is good for your setup, not just the biggest one on the market.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Dot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

About how much money??? i wana get into the game... all i have rite now is a extra civic hatch, and good full time with no bills to pay-- scott very nice car </TD></TR></TABLE>

If I do everything exactly how I want to, without doing anything but rod bolts to the block, I will have under $2,000 into my build. That includes, cam/springs/retainers, header, and Induction, which will most likely be a set of ITB"s. Remember though, I am able to do my own headwork and flow it myself which saves quite a bit on the cost.

 

I have a Z6 motor/tranny combo for sale if you guys know anybody interested. Built by JG you can see the motor/dynoed on his site. Put down 228hp @the flywheel. The setup is complete ready to drop in your car with slicks (brand new),Bisi header,S100 ecu etc. Plus a bonus motor short block with Aries 11:1 pistons LS rods the motor is new both motors are. $5000 shipped for all.

 

the DX 1.5 pistons from 88-95 will sit about .028 out of the hole on a D16 and are perfectly flat. they are extremely resistant to detonation. (spotface the head, theyll hit)

there is power to be made with attention to oil supply and drainback. ive heard Z6/Y8 springs are supposedly good for 9k with mild cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the DX 1.5 pistons from 88-95 will sit about .028 out of the hole on a D16 and are perfectly flat. they are extremely resistant to detonation. (spotface the head, theyll hit)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its true that the 1.5l pistons stick out of the block, but I am yet to see someone actually run them. If your going to take the time to tear down a block, throw the p29's in there. I dont think there is going to be a huge difference in flame travel and detonation resistence.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is power to be made with attention to oil supply and drainback. ive heard Z6/Y8 springs are supposedly good for 9k with mild cams. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not the heads that everyone is concerned about to rev the dseries engines, its the blocks. It's fact that the y8 loves to spin rod bearings, Ive known of quite a few z6s to spin rods aswell. The a6 "seems" to the the stoutest d16 block to choose from. Ive had a few spinning to 8k with just bolts, and they held together for as long as I owned them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phatrick2332 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Who is running a fully streetable Dseries into the 12s? Could you list your setup please?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not streetable due to huge *** compresion, anyway it just for sharing
this the D16Z https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1313920
this the D16A6 https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1118959
those cars should run solid 12 if its got under 2sec 60ft, those 13.1 was on 2.2sec 60ft since we dont have a proper drag racing track with proper burnout box

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phatrick2332 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its true that the 1.5l pistons stick out of the block, but I am yet to see someone actually run them. </TD></TR></TABLE>



this is my D16a6 with d15b1 pistons. it has about 7k miles on it now. has an assload of torque from 1500 rpm onward and i cant make it knock in 5th gear at any rpm on 87 octane with full timing. i also got 41 mpg in a sedan with 17.5:1 A/F ratio and only heard it knock once when pushed. with a stock ECU i get 35-36 mpg/
i think these suit the purpose of economy better than any other piston. they will hit the head if not spotfaced tho. i think im around 10 to 10.3 compression and will boost this eventually since its so knock resistant.

 

Im happy to actually see those in a block, it gives me alot of inspiration.

What head are you running with that setup, A6? When you say spotfacing, what exactly are you referring to? Don't mind my lack of knowledge, its just a term that I haven't heard before.

 

spotfacing is to open the chamber up to the gaskets diameter. i clayed the motor with them and found plenty of room with a 3 layer z6 gasket but didnt account for my massive piston to wall clearance and the extra rock that coming out of the hole created. the edges of the piston were hitting the edge of the quench pad relief when passing TDC. i flycut the head and lost a lot more compression than i wanted but it still pulls like an LS even using a DX 5spd trans. cant complain for pistons that usually go in the scrap bin.

 

any special machining that had to be done to fit the d15b pistons on the a6 rods?

 

none whatsoever.

 

sounds like a lot of head work for those pistons, im wondering if it would have been easier to just use p29 pistons

 

Yes, it would have. But the P29's are not flat top.

Flame travel
detonation resistence
weight

 

aquafina nailed it.

additionally, machine work is easy for me, finding extra money to buy parts in high demand is not.

i did the machine work for the head in two hours including setup on the mill. it would take me two months to spare the pennies for pistons that arent free. i must have 6 sets of D15 pistons here. same thing with rods, i can make LS rods go into the D in 10 hours or so but ill never have the cash for eagles. just how my life works, no steady money.

being broke is probably the best thing that ever happened to me. id be just another customer if my money situation were different.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aquafina nailed it.

i must have 6 sets of D15 pistons here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What kind of miles did your pistons have when you put them in? (build pictured above)

majestic honda has pm3 pistons for 55/each in standard bore, 44/each in .5 oversize. But with the oversize, you'll need to run a thicker headgasket and they will need more headwork.

 

probably 100k miles, id say most d15 engines have atleast that before they end up in my junkpile.

funny thing is those pistons come out looking like new, completely unscuffed. i attribute it to the d15s short stroke and old lady owners.