What is the best way to do this.
I was wandering if I just add a switch to the ecu's power via threw the fuse box under the hood back to a hidden switch.

Good idea? bad?

other ideas all together?

thanks
Mike

 

Too much work, just run a killswitch through the fuel pump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk.Werkz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Too much work, just run a killswitch through the fuel pump</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

or run it through a radio deck....with a detachable face...

 

thats a cool idea through the detachable face

 

or even the lighter is a good idea, anything is good as long as its hidden.. and u wont hit it by accident...

 

I used the passenger seat belt wires for a kill switch in a customers car. Won't crank until the seatbelt is fastened...

 

is there a write up somewhere on this kill switch???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by umrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a write up somewhere on this kill switch???</TD></TR></TABLE>

SEARCH

Also you could do a magnet switch and hide it anywhere in the car out of sight behind the dash, in the end of the shifter console, in your seat.

 

did you guys know that if you take out the fuse under the dash for your alternator that the car will not start or run? i just found this out yesterday... blew a fuse because i had some stuff spliced into it and noticed that the fuel pump was not priming... btw i have since taken all that stuff off my car that i had spliced into it
-Josh

 

I just take my emulator or the whole ecu with me. And if I'm going to be gone longer than a couple days, more parts start coming along, things get unplugged, etc. Putting blown fuses in place of good ones makes it harder to spot.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also you could do a magnet switch</TD></TR></TABLE>

omgz a l33ch!

 

For EF Civic and CRX:

-Under your back seat (or security trunk in a crx) there is a harness with some wires in it going into the chassis. If you tap a switch inline on the YELLOW with BLACK STRIPE wire, it will work as a fuel cutoff switch.

-The switch you use MUST be able to handle 20Amps, and your connections must be done well (no twist-n-tape). Also, use quality wire 18gauge wire, not little speaker wire.

-It is highly recommended that you do not use a lighted switch that requires power.

-It is also recommended that you carry the necessary tools to re-splice the connection if your switch craps out on you, but if you get a good one it will last.

-If you want to use a tiny switch that cannot handle 20 amps, then attach it to a relay, and the relay will handle the load for it. Search for more info on kill switch relays.

-I dont think we need to discuss where to hide your switch... be creative and keep it secret.

 

If you do a magnetic reed switch, you would normally have to have a "latching relay" set-up.

Here is a page that shows the relay set-up;

http://www.performanceforum.com/bob/bob5/bob5.html

And here is a page showing the magnetic switch;

http://www.performanceforum.com/bob/bob6/bob6.html

Wes

 

i like the magnet idea... i dont know much about electricity and have been wanting to do something like this for a while but ive been too afraid to... so all i would have to do is splice a magnet switch into my yellow/black wire that goes to the fuel pump and then whenever im in the car have the other magnet close to it and whenever i dont need the car running i can take it off of the switch? please correct me if im wrong
-Josh

 

The magnet is different and more complicated from an average switch on a wire. A magnet will need to be held down to start the car, and it will require a relay to keep it in the "on" position after the car is started.

 

but wouldnt it keep the car running if i kept the magnets together?

 

If you use a magnetic reed switch to "enable" the starter, you would want to wire it to work a relay. The switch can't handle very much current. You would only need the magnet close while starting the car.

If you use the magnetic reed switch to work a fuel pump disconnect, then you want to use a latching relay circuit. The magnet only "latches" the circuit and after enabling it, the magnet can be put away.

If you used just a single relay to disable the fuel pump, then the magnet would have to stay close to the reed switch. You do not want to do this!! It's unsafe due to the fact that if you went around a curve or hit a bump, the magnet would move away and the fuel pump would stop.

Wes

 

oh alright then... i was thinking that the magnet would be strong enough to keep it on there without any worries... thanks for the advice Wes... you rock!! lol
-Josh