Hi,

We have a 92 Vigor that we have been working on. Did a head job, and started it up. It runs ok for a while, but then the oil light will come on. Now the problem is trying to get the oil pan off to see whats going on in the bottom. The oil pan is obstructed by the differential, but there just isn't very good info on removing these parts in the Chilton book we have. Does anyone have any experience or info on this?

We've got the engine mount off the diff, removed the axles, removed the extension shaft for the passenger side axle, and unbolted the diff from the block/tranny. It still won't drop. Is there another step that must be done? Should I unbolt A/C compressor for more clearance?

Thanks for your help.

 

I got nothin right now, but the chilton's book is crap. May I suggest Helms? Its usually well over a thousand pages, good pictures, step by step, it is THE book for your car. There like 65$ and available at http://www.helminc.com . Best investment i ever made, the one for 96-00 Civics is over 1800 pages will full diagrams, torque specs, electrical diagnostics, etc. Its great.

 

If I remember correctly, I think you have to remove the tranny to get to the oil pan or at least remove it.

 

Have you removed the extension shaft from the trans to the diff?

 

Thanks to everyone for the responses.

I read about an extension shaft, I think that's what needs to be done. I'll give it try tomorrow.

 

We removed the oil pan on Sunday finally. There is NOT an extension shaft from the diff to the transmission. I think that could be something in the Legend and not the Vigor. The oil pickup screen was 90% blocked. Hopefully this will solve my oil pressure problem


Here is what was done to remove the oil pan:

1. Remove air cleaner box for better access.

2 Drain engine oil and diff oil. You may want to drain the coolant too because there water hoses running to the differential as well. Or you could plug those hoses.

3. Remove the axel spindle nuts on both sides. It's 36mm.

4. Raise and set on jack stands, put blocks on rear wheels and set to park, and engage parking brake.

5. Remove front wheels and seperate ball joints on tie rod ends and control arms.

6. Disengage the half shafts from the differential. You should be able to pull the wheel hubs off of the half shafts and pull the half shafts out. Just rest the shafts on the suspension forks. (You have to undo the suspension forks to remove them completely.)

7. The passenger side axel has an intermediate shaft that runs through the oil pan.
This needs to be removed. There are a couple of bolts on the plate and then it comes out.

8. The inner pipe for the intermediate shaft engages to the differential. It needs to be disengaged for the differential to drop. I used pry bars to pull it. It won't come out completely, but you should definitely notice it coming about half-inch to inch.

9. Put a jack under the engine to support it. You have to remove the front mount which bolts to the oil pan. It may help to unbolt the anti-roll bar from the chassis (not from suspension) to get better access. Try to remove the whole mount otherwise it may be too difficult to remove the differential.

10. Unbolt the A/C compressor from the engine and hang it up with some wire. Do not remove the A/C hoses from the compressor.

11. Unbolt the A/C Mounting bracket from the block. You need to do this for clearance. Move it out of the way.

12. I think you need to remove the speed sensor, and some more hoses on the differential. Then unbolt the differential. There are large bolts on the side and and one bolt connecting it to the transmission.

13. Slightly pry the diff away from the block and oil pan. There are dowels that hold the diff in place onto block. Once these have disengaged, you can pull the differential forward off the transmission. Now the differential is out of the way.

14. Unbolt the oil pan. You will need to raise the engine as much as possible to reach the nuts towards the firewall. The frame blocks some of them, so I had to use a universal joint on a 1/4" drive rachet to reach them. Also there is a flywheel cover that blocks access to the nut thats closest to the firewall. I had to remove that too.

I might of forgotten something, but I think that's main stuff. I'm going to put it back together this weekend.