After doing a few searches I've come to the conclusion this is what I will be doing. I bought a 1989 honda civic hatch with a d15b2 for $200. The owner took it apart to put a timing belt on it, but didn't know what he was doing, and it sat for a while before he decided to sell it because he has a fatass s-10 xtreme on 20's.

I plan to put a new water pump, SOHC Vtec Head on it, timing belt, thermostat, and reassemble. Then I will be putting a new clutch in it, as the current was worn last I rode in it pretty badly.

My goal is to complete this for as cheap as possible. I really don't care about maximum power as I have an LS1/T-56 powered FC RX7 in the works and this will just be my little daily toy, perhaps with a small shot of nitrous in the future just to experiment. But for now the added horsepower will be cool.

Now, that being said. I already have the SOHC Vtec head, which I am not sure. I will get the code on that later, as I am at work.

1. Which head gasket should I use to get the most compression. At what point will I need to raise to mid-grade or premium gas?

2. What header can I use for this buildup? I am not going to get one now, but in a few months that will be an option, as I have the money for it but really want to devote most of my cash to the rx7.

3. What PCM can I use? Is there anyway I can keep from having to update to obd1? Is there a standalone I can use? How will I go about tuning?

4. What kind of performance can be expected (horsepower, 1/4 mile), from this engine? What about gas milage, will I be giving up/gaining from the vtec swap?

Thanks a ton,
Josh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by distortion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After doing a few searches I've come to the conclusion this is what I will be doing. I bought a 1989 honda civic hatch with a d15b2 for $200. The owner took it apart to put a timing belt on it, but didn't know what he was doing, and it sat for a while before he decided to sell it because he has a fatass s-10 xtreme on 20's.

I plan to put a new water pump, SOHC Vtec Head on it, timing belt, thermostat, and reassemble. Then I will be putting a new clutch in it, as the current was worn last I rode in it pretty badly.

My goal is to complete this for as cheap as possible. I really don't care about maximum power as I have an LS1/T-56 powered FC RX7 in the works and this will just be my little daily toy, perhaps with a small shot of nitrous in the future just to experiment. But for now the added horsepower will be cool.

Now, that being said. I already have the SOHC Vtec head, which I am not sure. I will get the code on that later, as I am at work.

1. Which head gasket should I use to get the most compression. At what point will I need to raise to mid-grade or premium gas?

2. What header can I use for this buildup? I am not going to get one now, but in a few months that will be an option, as I have the money for it but really want to devote most of my cash to the rx7.

3. What PCM can I use? Is there anyway I can keep from having to update to obd1? Is there a standalone I can use? How will I go about tuning?

4. What kind of performance can be expected (horsepower, 1/4 mile), from this engine? What about gas milage, will I be giving up/gaining from the vtec swap?

Thanks a ton,
Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>

y8 headgasket
just get any d series aftermarket header if its just dd, i have a hedman chickara it was cheap, i like it.
you can get a vafc, otherwise yo will have to run wires for obd1
i dont know abou gask mileage but i think the hp numbers are similar to the z6 engine (which is around 125)


why nto keep the rx7 rotary, 20b tt?

 

What is the best VAFC, and do you have a part # or price? So an obd1 swap is not required? Is it cheaper to go VAFC or swap to obd1? Is there anyway I can stay obd0, and not run a VAFC?

Thanks,
Josh


RX7: Just too much money, weight, unreliable, and terrible gas milage, my ls1 was $1800, and my 6 speed was $850. My camshaft was $350.00, the valvesprings were $250, and the asp pulley was $175. I bought an ls6 intake with direct port nitrous plumbed into it for $1300, but only because it had a ridicolous badass flame job on it (not the redneck type, the campfire type). It is roughly $2700 for the swap parts (with longtube headers). The same combo in my last car made 419rwhp to the wheels on stock heads with a more power robbing rearend on motor, and with a progressive sprayed 150-200 shot I can reliably see 550-600rwhp, so long as the tune is safe, and I'm not doing something stupid like spraying a 200 off the line (although, I know tons of people who do it on the stock motor just about weakly).

20b's are expensive.. not only that, the injectors, turbo, piping, wastegate, blowoff valve, turbo manifold, tuning (which is so much easier on an ls1), and other things just put it way out of $9500 car completion budget with chromoly roll cage.

A stock ls1 in a v8 FC runs 11.8-12.0 with a mediocre 60' (1.7). A bolton rx7 typically runs 11.50's @ low-mid 120's mph. And there are several cam only cars running high 10's on cam only setups (for instance a t-rex has gone 10.78 @ 127). So who knows what'll it do with the spray. Likely break the stock turbo 2 differential if launched too hard, but that's the beauty of progressive Launch it easy, kill it in 2nd.

The ls1 gets better gas milage than a 13b, much less a 20. My stock ls1 I had in a camaro got damn near 28-30mpg. I'm running the car bolton only for a while with a good tune, and possibly raised compression in order to increase gas milage. I've been told in the 2700lb car vs. the 3500, that 30-32mpg out of a 350rwhp v8 is not a problem. Typically a well tuned ls1 will gain power from things that free up power like underdrive pulley, headers, etc.

I bought a lightweight battery to relocate to the rear, and 50/50 weight balance should be kept. Motor sits slightly lower in the chassis, so it will give the car a lower center of gravity. I'm pretty sure a 20b twin turbo will weigh alot more than that, considering intercooler, turbo, wastegate, blowoff valve, the already heavy as hell 20b.. My LS1 weighed in at just under 400lbs when I weighed it at the scale at my work, with no a/c or power steering or alternator. It had pcm, harness, and heavy *** stock exhaust manifolds which will be replaced for lighter longtube headers. The asp pulley is also lighter than stock by ~8lbs. I have removed all emissions equipment, which also saves 10+lbs. It will be very close by the time it comes down to it, and I will definately have it corner weighed. But from what I've seen thus far most come within a few lbs.

Not only that, but I have beat the expletive outta some ls1's and they last very well. I cannot say the same for my rotary experiences Hell, just cruise rx7club for 20 minutes, and you'll almost every car with more than 60k-70k miles has blown up almost religiously boosted.

I'm sure any purist could come up with a number of reasons not to do the swap, but typically it is uninformed, biased, or heresay

BTW: Thanks a ton for your responses.

Peace,
Josh

 

this is the most commong used i beleive:
apexi vafc

and sorry, which did you want a part number for? the head gasket? id hafta look for that.

afaik the only way to run vtec is with a vafc or odb1

 

The part # for the VAFC, which you supplied! Thanks alot. So I can tune and control vtec with a VAFC.. Then all i'd need is to bolt the head on, and go about life as normal?

Thanks,
Josh

 

yeah but I know you don't want to....but it really isn't that much more to convert to obd-1 and it is not hard at all.......and not that much more money......also since yours is DPFI right? I would highly recomend comverting to MPFI otherwise don't even bother.

alos get an si tranny...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gnar kill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah but I know you don't want to....but it really isn't that much more to convert to obd-1 and it is not hard at all.......and not that much more money......also since yours is DPFI right? I would highly recomend comverting to MPFI otherwise don't even bother.

alos get an si tranny...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would agree, convert to odb1, better tuning options in my opinion, and u dont have to worry about mounting a vafc somewhere

you can buy a conversion harness for cheap, and the ecu's arent too bad.

the mpfi should come with the vtec head (make sure you get a complete head incl. intake,tb, injects, ect, ect,)

 

I see. Any sources or part numbers for the harnesses I need, the ECU I'll need or anything? I'm hopefully going to order this weekend.

Thanks,
Josh

 

if you convert to obd 1 you will need thee rywire conversion harness and dizzy plug from http://www.rywire.com

a 4 wire o2 which you can get universally anywhere

a z6 head with the z6 dizzy (td42u I think is the dizzy number)

any MPFI intake mani with the 4 injectors

head gasket for 92-00 civic ex

water pump for your civic

timing belt for 92-95 civic ex

intake manifold gasket (be sure and get both of the surfaces very clean otherwise it will have a vacuum and surge)

p28 92-95 civic ex/si ecu

that is all I can think of off the top of my head