N/A setup
head is made out crower stage 2 cams, retainers, springs and cam gears. manley valves and bronze guieds. 5 angle valve job and p and p. and oversized intake manifold tb and skunk mani.

how much would that get me with stock h22 block ?

what can i do to the block to get the whp i want with this head without sleeving?

 

LOL

you're funny. Without sleeving..maybe 205whp, but not with the minimal things you mentioned.

 

I was wondering the same thing. For the bottomend, I was thinking about going with an F23 block instead of messing with the H22 block.

 

hope you have 10k or more lying around to make closer to 230 whp....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tourhcky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hope you have 10k or more lying around to make closer to 230 whp....</TD></TR></TABLE>


HAHAHA, you think it costs $10K to make 230whp. That's funny.

 

how about $600 and a 75 shot from a NX express kit-- that would do it....

 

I'd keep the H22 bottom. It will rev higher. Just get it sleeved. Anyway, you'll want Type S pistons, light connecting rods. For externals you'll want a light flywheel, good header, and full 2.5" cat and catback exhaust. That might land you 230ish. 260 is just a high number for NA

 

get some ITB's you'll see much nicer numbers more closer towards 230ish.

 

or look for an h22a type s. they are 220 stock. a little bit better platfor to start on. But get type s pistons and cams. you can use civic si .5mm oversized valves which do a good job and titanium retainers and good valve springs. but 230 on a usdm h22 is a stretch without doin a lot to the bottom end as far as reinforcement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by veganstraightedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or look for an h22a type s. they are 220 stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>

220hp is to the flywheels and not to the ground. 260hp to the wheels is getting to the point of ultra crazy compression that isn't too good for the streets.

 

ITB's?? Type S swap and a lot of work to the bottomend?? Jesus, this is some VERY bad advice.

 

260 whp with no bottom end reinforcement is VERY bad advice. also your top end needs to be able to handle what your throwin at it. You can get anything to bump hp, but doesnt mean it will last long. however i believe what most people would say is that forged internals and sleeving it would be worth the inverstment if you plan to go to 260 or above.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITB's?? Type S swap and a lot of work to the bottomend?? Jesus, this is some VERY bad advice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You have any better advice??

 

Custom cams, high compression on sleeved, forged bottem end, with heavy port work and good engine management and and good header/exhaust.

 

I can't see how you will be able to achieve 260 to the wheels with only 11.0:1 compression.

Couple years ago pro cars running the all motor class was only making that much power and they were around 13-15.0:1 ratio.

 

take a look at franks 2.7L. It makes 260. Thats a good chunk of change for someone who doesnt own a shop and can't do the work themselves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You have any better advice??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, how about starting with upgrading the head internals, cams, 68mm throttle body, intake manifold, 12.0:1 comp. pistons, and an engine management system for starters. LOL

 

205whp is a terrible estimate satan....your car put down no hp because of that shitty header you had...it was a dc if i remember right....

to the poster:

to get 260whp youre gonna need bigger cams and a real pnp, from someone who really knows what theyre doing....and definitely a sleeved block and high compression....

the skunk2 manifold will need to see the trash can and you will need a custom one...

you got a lot of reading to do buddy, but i had to post up bc however controversial people want to make the conversion from dynapack to dynojet, i made at least 200whp with my rmf header h22a...or 205...

im probably gonna go to a dynojet soon to shut up all the hating idiots...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">205whp is a terrible estimate satan....your car put down no hp because of that shitty header you had...it was a dc if i remember right....

to the poster:

to get 260whp youre gonna need bigger cams and a real pnp, from someone who really knows what theyre doing....and definitely a sleeved block and high compression....

the skunk2 manifold will need to see the trash can and you will need a custom one...

you got a lot of reading to do buddy, but i had to post up bc however controversial people want to make the conversion from dynapack to dynojet, i made at least 200whp with my rmf header h22a...or 205...

im probably gonna go to a dynojet soon to shut up all the hating idiots...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll be doing it soon as long as this dude actually buys my head and crank

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL

you're funny. Without sleeving..maybe 205whp, but not with the minimal things you mentioned.</TD></TR></TABLE> W

with the set up you mention Satan is very correct.....Lucky if you even hit 205 whp. You can get above 205 without sleeving, but you are going to need at least type s pistons, stage III cams (Juns or equivalent), headwork, milled head (otherwise sleeving), standalone, and massive tuning. And that will only get you to the 220 to 230 range. Bigger bore and stroke will be needed to get to 260.

Satan: did you ever tune your beast?

 

oh really thedread....you need to do some looking around...

stock internal h22s (yes completely stock no cams no nothing) with an intake, NICE header, and an exhaust can put down 200whp....

it has been done MULTIPLE times and proven with the smsp header....

and i recently put down 183whp on a dynapack, (and no i dont need your views on the conversion factor, have your own opinion, i go on what i read and see....and the guys at rlz told me to add 15%, smsp on here said 12.5%....im gonna add 10% just for the skeptics)and thats 201whp....

this is of course assuming that you want dynojet numbers....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, how about starting with upgrading the head internals, cams, 68mm throttle body, intake manifold, 12.0:1 comp. pistons, and an engine management system for starters. LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't want to sleeve for forged pistons - get the Type-S pistons, mil the head, get flat head valves, and a smaller headgasket.

To make it quicker- get it sleeved, eagle rods, pistons(10:1), engine management(hondata s300), all your headwork, and throw on a 100shot...............ha.........get that **** tuned.

 

The last dyno I did on dynodynamics made 206whp, which translates to 226whp on dynojet.

With the right selection of parts, 250whp is definitely achieveable in H22.

 

enzynes n/a h22 set up put out 298 whp i think

 

so with my dc sport header, apex n1 exhaust, and when i get all my jun head internals, how much would i get and will that be respectable, and would i need hondata to tun it? (if this will not do what will i have to change)

its on a 5th gen lud