nasty loud ticking, need help
well guys, i have a ticking noise from my motor. Its a JDM ITR motor. Its not a fast ticking, its slow enough to mimic. Im thinking its a spun bearing in #4, because when i take out the spark plug or injector plug on that cyl, it stops. But i have no lost in power at all. Its loud enough to hear inside the car. If it is a spun bearing, can i drive to to the shop to get it fixed? and how much would u all think it would cost me to fix it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver Civic EX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well guys, i have a ticking noise from my motor. Its a JDM ITR motor. Its not a fast ticking, its slow enough to mimic. Im thinking its a spun bearing in #4, because when i take out the spark plug or injector plug on that cyl, it stops. But i have no lost in power at all. Its loud enough to hear inside the car. If it is a spun bearing, can i drive to to the shop to get it fixed? and how much would u all think it would cost me to fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check your oil, if the bearing is spun you will have metallic oil. Have you been monitoring your oil pressure?
If you do in fact have a spun bearing, stop driving the car right now. If you haven't been driving it for a long period of time, all it may take is a polish on the crankshaft and new bearings.
Check your oil, if the bearing is spun you will have metallic oil. Have you been monitoring your oil pressure?
If you do in fact have a spun bearing, stop driving the car right now. If you haven't been driving it for a long period of time, all it may take is a polish on the crankshaft and new bearings.
yea, i have already stopped driving it, and tomarrow im going to drop the oil pan to check for anything abnormal. if i really did spin a bearing, how much would it cost me. I called the local shop, and they said if i was to bring them just the bare block, it would cost me 400 to 500 to fix. If i was to bring them the car, and have him take out the motor and replace the gaskets and all, it would be 700 to 1200. Is this a good price?
You can pretty much do it yourself. I dont know your application (How hard you drive your car) but if you spun a rod bearing and are not birning any oil, you probably have a rear main leak or something like that.
It's not really hard to check. Get some plastiguage (If you are fresh out of micrometers) and a torque wrench. If you spun a rod bearing, the rod will have to be resized (Recommended any time a rod bearing is spun) and the crank checked. If you bring the machine shop the crank and rod, you may get out of there under $150.00 or so...
Again, there are a lot of things that can sway your decision. How many miles do you have on the engine? If it is over 100k you may want to go through the entire motor. At least have the head checked.
But remember, if you are asking the mechanic to fix a spun bearing, that's all he will do. A spun bearing is a symptom of something else that is wrong with the engine's oiling capability. Bad oil pump? Leak? Bad rings, berning oil? Bad valve seals leaking oil at start-up? Again, without knowing how you drive, how many miles you have on the engine, and what kind of condition it is in, it's hard to tell.
If you are just looking to slap the motor back together for a daily driver, sizing the rod and checking the crank are the bare minimal things to do.
Oh and your original question... Don't drive the car. A knocking rod becomes a broken rod pretty fast. And a broken rod can become a broken engine even faster!
It's not really hard to check. Get some plastiguage (If you are fresh out of micrometers) and a torque wrench. If you spun a rod bearing, the rod will have to be resized (Recommended any time a rod bearing is spun) and the crank checked. If you bring the machine shop the crank and rod, you may get out of there under $150.00 or so...
Again, there are a lot of things that can sway your decision. How many miles do you have on the engine? If it is over 100k you may want to go through the entire motor. At least have the head checked.
But remember, if you are asking the mechanic to fix a spun bearing, that's all he will do. A spun bearing is a symptom of something else that is wrong with the engine's oiling capability. Bad oil pump? Leak? Bad rings, berning oil? Bad valve seals leaking oil at start-up? Again, without knowing how you drive, how many miles you have on the engine, and what kind of condition it is in, it's hard to tell.
If you are just looking to slap the motor back together for a daily driver, sizing the rod and checking the crank are the bare minimal things to do.
Oh and your original question... Don't drive the car. A knocking rod becomes a broken rod pretty fast. And a broken rod can become a broken engine even faster!
well i just dropped the oil pan, there isnt any free movent (up and down movement) of anything down there, so will i be ok? There also isnt anything looking burnt or out of the ordinary really, no metal shavings in the oil or anything. The motor only had 13k when i bought it in april, perhaps it might have 25k or so now. I would really like to fix this motor, being that it is a jdm type r. Im really stuck here guys, all the evidence pionts to a bearing goin out in #4, but yet when i look at it, it seems fine. Should I take off the rod and bearing and look at it from the bottom of the car?
By all means!
You probably cant feel two thicknesses of a human hair in movement anyways, and that's all it takes to get the loud knocking noise of a rod bearing that is bad.
You should remove all the rod caps, ONE BY ONE and look at the bearing. If it is in bad shape it will look almost "Brassy" in spots. Take a pic and we can look at them for you.
Of course plastiguage is the best thing to check them from under the car.
You probably cant feel two thicknesses of a human hair in movement anyways, and that's all it takes to get the loud knocking noise of a rod bearing that is bad.
You should remove all the rod caps, ONE BY ONE and look at the bearing. If it is in bad shape it will look almost "Brassy" in spots. Take a pic and we can look at them for you.
Of course plastiguage is the best thing to check them from under the car.
well im going to look at it tomarrow, i had a very busy weekend, so tomarrow is the big day huh? I was talking with my brother about it, and if it looks bad, were just going to get it fully built. he was saying that he wants a 2 liter turbo itr motor built. I only have about 4.5k to spend on it, u think i can make it for that much? ofcourse im going to get a shop to do it, im starting to get tired of spending all my time under my car.
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UPDATE!
well turns out that one of the bolts on my header was loose, and was shaking making that noise. It's the one right on top of the #4 cyl, so that explains a lot. I replaced the bearing with an ACL one(my original was a green bearing), and the noise was still there, so i then checked the header and found out my problem. Although i blew the gasket apart, after i tightened down the bolt, all the noise went away. Thanks a lot for all your support, eventho it was my own fault that caused it. Thanks!
well turns out that one of the bolts on my header was loose, and was shaking making that noise. It's the one right on top of the #4 cyl, so that explains a lot. I replaced the bearing with an ACL one(my original was a green bearing), and the noise was still there, so i then checked the header and found out my problem. Although i blew the gasket apart, after i tightened down the bolt, all the noise went away. Thanks a lot for all your support, eventho it was my own fault that caused it. Thanks!
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