How involved is doing a timing belt on a 98?
Seems the shops want $400-$450 to do it and that is timing belt and water pump. Is it pretty bad or worth doing yourself? Charge look right?
go to auto zone and get a haynes manual for your car
its easy
a tensioner and the belts off
if you dont move anything im pretty sure you wouldnt have to time it
like the cam gear and crank
just follow the manual there idiot proof
its easy
a tensioner and the belts off
if you dont move anything im pretty sure you wouldnt have to time it
like the cam gear and crank
just follow the manual there idiot proof
it usually takes me 1-2 hours at the most. just get a hanes manual it tells you everything you need. i know some places that would charge more than that. the best bet is to do it yourself and save a shitload of money......just have someone with you that knows what they are doing if you dont.
haynes sucks *****. i dont even know if its worth the 15 bucks. get the helms, you will thank yourself. its much more detailed.
doing the tbelt/wp isnt hard, a lil annoying at points cause there isnt loads of clearance down by the frame rail. some time, the right parts, a torquewrench and other basic tools will get it done.
doing the tbelt/wp isnt hard, a lil annoying at points cause there isnt loads of clearance down by the frame rail. some time, the right parts, a torquewrench and other basic tools will get it done.
it will take a few hours if its your first time. also it will take longer if you have ac and ps and other crap down there, cause thats all gotta come off.
main pointer- get some airtools to take off the crank pulley bolt. makes like 224474 times easier
main pointer- get some airtools to take off the crank pulley bolt. makes like 224474 times easier
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haynes sucks *****. i dont even know if its worth the 15 bucks. get the helms, you will thank yourself. its much more detailed.
doing the tbelt/wp isnt hard, a lil annoying at points cause there isnt loads of clearance down by the frame rail. some time, the right parts, a torquewrench and other basic tools will get it done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Especially because i have a Haynes and i cant tell how to do ****. I just use Helms from now on
doing the tbelt/wp isnt hard, a lil annoying at points cause there isnt loads of clearance down by the frame rail. some time, the right parts, a torquewrench and other basic tools will get it done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Especially because i have a Haynes and i cant tell how to do ****. I just use Helms from now on
I have 75k miles. The manual says 105,000 miles in normal conditions. If you live in a real cold or real hot climate 60,000 miles is the suggested interval all according to Honda. Am I doing it too early?
I called today and the shop I used in the past will do water pump and belt for $200. Opinions on whether to just do it, wait, or have the shop do it??
I called today and the shop I used in the past will do water pump and belt for $200. Opinions on whether to just do it, wait, or have the shop do it??
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Intercooler »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I called today and the shop I used in the past will do water pump and belt for $200. Opinions on whether to just do it, wait, or have the shop do it??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats not a bad price. What brand parts are the using though?
I called today and the shop I used in the past will do water pump and belt for $200. Opinions on whether to just do it, wait, or have the shop do it??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats not a bad price. What brand parts are the using though?
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Joined: May 2002
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
After getting the crank bolt, it's easy.
take your time and don't rust, usually forgetting a spacer, etc is what causes things to get fucked up.
take your time and don't rust, usually forgetting a spacer, etc is what causes things to get fucked up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aquabob89 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you dont move anything im pretty sure you wouldnt have to time it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A way to cheat: Before you take the old belt off get some white-out and place a mark on a thooth on each gear and then a correspoinding mark on the old belt. Take said old belt off, then line it up with the new belt and transpose the marks onto the new belt (for the love of god make sure you have it right) then put the new belt on and just line up the marks.
this is a way to avoid timing it or just as a good double check to make sure you have it timed right. I did this on my old VW cause it was a bitch to see and line up the timing marks, I don't know if it is as hard on a Honda
cheers
if you dont move anything im pretty sure you wouldnt have to time it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A way to cheat: Before you take the old belt off get some white-out and place a mark on a thooth on each gear and then a correspoinding mark on the old belt. Take said old belt off, then line it up with the new belt and transpose the marks onto the new belt (for the love of god make sure you have it right) then put the new belt on and just line up the marks.
this is a way to avoid timing it or just as a good double check to make sure you have it timed right. I did this on my old VW cause it was a bitch to see and line up the timing marks, I don't know if it is as hard on a Honda
cheers
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
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From: I moved far away from cornz fieldz, IL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A way to cheat: Before you take the old belt off get some white-out and place a mark on a thooth on each gear and then a correspoinding mark on the old belt. Take said old belt off, then line it up with the new belt and transpose the marks onto the new belt (for the love of god make sure you have it right) then put the new belt on and just line up the marks.
cheers</TD></TR></TABLE> Ive wondered about doing this, and your right make sure you have it right. Bump to see if anyone has done this on a Honda.
A way to cheat: Before you take the old belt off get some white-out and place a mark on a thooth on each gear and then a correspoinding mark on the old belt. Take said old belt off, then line it up with the new belt and transpose the marks onto the new belt (for the love of god make sure you have it right) then put the new belt on and just line up the marks.
cheers</TD></TR></TABLE> Ive wondered about doing this, and your right make sure you have it right. Bump to see if anyone has done this on a Honda.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A way to cheat: Before you take the old belt off get some white-out and place a mark on a thooth on each gear and then a correspoinding mark on the old belt. Take said old belt off, then line it up with the new belt and transpose the marks onto the new belt (for the love of god make sure you have it right) then put the new belt on and just line up the marks.
this is a way to avoid timing it or just as a good double check to make sure you have it timed right. I did this on my old VW cause it was a bitch to see and line up the timing marks, I don't know if it is as hard on a Honda
cheers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just get a timing gun and do it right the first time. Also, do your water pump and your oil pump while your down there. Kill 3 birds with one timing belt
A way to cheat: Before you take the old belt off get some white-out and place a mark on a thooth on each gear and then a correspoinding mark on the old belt. Take said old belt off, then line it up with the new belt and transpose the marks onto the new belt (for the love of god make sure you have it right) then put the new belt on and just line up the marks.
this is a way to avoid timing it or just as a good double check to make sure you have it timed right. I did this on my old VW cause it was a bitch to see and line up the timing marks, I don't know if it is as hard on a Honda
cheers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just get a timing gun and do it right the first time. Also, do your water pump and your oil pump while your down there. Kill 3 birds with one timing belt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just get a timing gun and do it right the first time. Also, do your water pump and your oil pump while your down there. Kill 3 birds with one timing belt</TD></TR></TABLE>
a timing belt won't help when you're setting timing marks, you need to just line up the timing marks.
Just get a timing gun and do it right the first time. Also, do your water pump and your oil pump while your down there. Kill 3 birds with one timing belt</TD></TR></TABLE>a timing belt won't help when you're setting timing marks, you need to just line up the timing marks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haynes sucks *****. i dont even know if its worth the 15 bucks. get the helms, you will thank yourself. its much more detailed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is helms more detailed than chilton as well?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is helms more detailed than chilton as well?
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