my lug in my front passenger side broke off. only one, when i went and took off the lugs one was so tight it just snap off, the other 3 went off fine, but than my wheel is stuck. feels like from overtime of intence heat it weld itself on the car. what do i do now???

 

Hammer at the wheel from behind... or just kick it really hard to break the little seal its gotten from age. Then do some searching for articles on replacing Wheel studs without spindle removal. Otherwise... just take the car to someone.. and they can do it... but they'll take the spindle off and probably charge a decent amount.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hammer at the wheel from behind... or just kick it really hard to break the little seal its gotten from age. Then do some searching for articles on replacing Wheel studs without spindle removal. Otherwise... just take the car to someone.. and they can do it... but they'll take the spindle off and probably charge a decent amount.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^what he said... sometimes i run into the same problem, so i end up just kicking the hell out of it until it comes loose.

 

just kick it really hard man its what i do a buddys lug nut broke off of his caviler and he drove it (its a 5 lug) and his wheel poped off it was funny **** hell i was in back of him.... but for our hondas ive seen alot off ppl drive on 3 lug nuts and be fine i myself have done it a few times but after the hole caviler thing i wouldnt do it again.

 

oh, can i take it to a local machanic shop and have them replace the stud without chaning the spindle. and if i do replace the spindle how much does one of those cost.

 

If you have to replace one stud it will cost you about $45.00 if you have to replace the entire spindle + labor it could run you up about $250.00 One of mine broke and I thought originally I only had to pay the $45.00. Then the place where I took it said that because I had a "pressed" hub I had to replace the entire spindle. So my bill was roughly $250.00 charged directly to discount tires for ******* up my lug nuts when I got new tires.

 

u dont have to replace that just one stud i think there liek 5$ each a shop shouldnt charge you to much i rather do it all my self but dont think a shop will take it to a tire store/shop they will charge you less just call liek big o or whatever local tire shops you have and ask how much it is to replace a stud..

 

Replacing the stud is cheap and easy. Pull the caliper and rotor off and and bang that sucker out. Replace it with the new one, get an open-end lug and tighten it all the way down so it pulls the stud all the way through the hub. Re-assemble everything, put the tire back on and then impact that bad boy in. I think that should be it.


Or you can Pay a shop, which will probably do it the long way and charge you a pretty penny.

Good luck.

 

IF you can replace the stud yourself. My hub was pressed in. You can't just remove the stud. From the backside there wasn't enough clearence. There are a few 96-98 cars made from certain factory that had pressed together hubs, I have no idea why or how but this is what was explained to me by the shop.

 

i have had a couple of wheel studs strip to where the lugnut wont go back on so on the front of my 92 cx hatch take off the tire.. take off the brake caliper and caliper brakcet take off the rotor.. now there is a small spot you can hammer it through... hammer it get the new one put it in and get some washers get a new lug nut put it on hit it with an impact it should suck it in and stay..

the back... ( cars with drums ) take off the tire take the drum off there is a center cap take that off get a 32 mm socket take that nut off pull the hub off hammer them out put em in its way easier in the back.. it takes me like 30 minutes each side to replace all of them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SRCivic97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have to replace one stud it will cost you about $45.00 if you have to replace the entire spindle + labor it could run you up about $250.00 One of mine broke and I thought originally I only had to pay the $45.00. Then the place where I took it said that because I had a "pressed" hub I had to replace the entire spindle. So my bill was roughly $250.00 charged directly to discount tires for ******* up my lug nuts when I got new tires. </TD></TR></TABLE>

to replace them shouldn't be that much. I've replaced several studs and lugs at my work. And i think the most we ever charged was $60. and that was to replace all of them at once.

 

Actually, its a rather simple but tedious process to changing your own studs... Expect it to take up your whole day with a 2 man crew..... Heres the steps I followed to do mine.... BTW If you do end up doing it yourself, it would be a good idea to replace the whole front or rear(Which ever one you broke) set while your at it, since studs are fairly cheap.

Note: I did not do this write up... Its just a copy and paste

I broke a wheel stud last fall, and I've been driving around with only 3 on one front wheel ever since. &lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emhammer.gif" BORDER="0"&gt; x 100. I decided instead of just replacing that one stud, to replace all of the front ones. I opted for extended ARP wheel studs. ARP previously made studs which were designed for camaros, which had a VERY similar knurl diameter to the honda size, but it was not quite the same. They now make honda specific wheel studs. The part # for the 4 lug pack is 100-7711.

Now for the tech. I decided to take the time to take photos and make this writeup, instead of just complaining about the lack of tech lately.

DISCLAIMER: The method I used is not the "proper" way. I would highly suggest removing your entire spindle assembly when doing this, and replacing your wheel bearing. You need to use a press to do that though, and I know most honda-techers dont have 12ton presses at home. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS AND DAMAGE YOUR WHEEL BEARING BEYOND REPAIR.

With that out of the way, let's begin.

To start off, here is a list of tools that you'll need:

Ratchet/torque wrench, would help to have a 3/8" and 1/2" drive
Various ratchet extensions
32mm or 1 1/8" socket - 1/2" drive for removing axle spindle nut
17mm socket - brake caliper mount bolts
19mm socket - wheel studs (you'll need a deep 19mm when you put the extended studs in)
10mm wrench or socket - brake hose mounting tab on upright
*Phillips head screwdriver (I believe it's a #9) - brake rotor retaining screws
Large slide hammer - this is available through autozone's loan-a-tool program, p/n oem 27033
Axle puller 3.75"/4.5" - also available at autozone, p/n oem 27037
Anti seize - this is for the lug nuts, so the nuts dont seize, also good for the rotor screws
Brake parts cleaner - now is a good time to scrub down your calipers, and you'll want to get your greasy finger prints off your rotors (I use non-chlorinated, in case I need to use it on engine parts)
Wire ties - these are good to tie the brake caliper up, so it doesn't hang from the brake hose
Long pipe - if you don't have air tools, you'll probably need this for the axle nut
BFH - never start a job without it &lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsmilep.gif" BORDER="0"&gt;
Jack & jackstands

*It's really common for the rotor screws to be seized. There is two ways to tackle this. You can use and impact driver, which is available at sears or autozone for $25-30, or you can drill them out and replace them.

Here's most of the tools I used:



Step 1: Jack up car and secure it with jackstands. Remove wheel and axle nut, so you see this:


Step 2: Remove rotor screws and caliper. Tie the caliper to upper control arm, so it isn't hanging by the brake hose.:


Step 3: Remove rotor, should look like this now:


Step 4: Mount the axle puller to the lug nuts, and tighten it down using your lug nuts. Next thread the slide hammer into the axle puller. The way the slide hammer works, is that by "sliding" back the weighted handle, you are pulling off whatever you have attached to the end of it. You want to use a steady, straight "stroke" when doing this step, to make sure not to damage the bearing or hub. When you think the hub is about to come off, make sure not to let that end of the hammer fall onto the ground.


Step 5: Unbolt the axle puller attachment from the hub. Set the hub aside, and take a break. Now would be a good time to inspect the inner bearing race, and ball bearings for any abnormal wear. At this point, you should have this:




Step 6: Ok, time to start working again. Put the hub on a block of wood, lug side up, and use your BFH to hammer the studs out. Again, straight and steady here. It's very important you don't damage any part of the hub, especially the stud holes. After you hammer the studs out, your hub should like like this:


Step 7: Now you need to install your new studs. There is a few ways you can do this. You can press them in. You can hammer them in. You can "pull" them through by putting some washers between the hub and a lug nut and tightening the nut down until the stud seats. Which ever way you choose to do this step, it's important to make sure you pull/press/push the studs in perfectly straight. You also want to try to get the studs to "seat" in the grooves the old studs made. When you're done here, you should be looking at something like this:


Step 8: Now it's time to re-install the hub. Before you start, take a moment to clean off the inner bearing race on the hub, since it may have gotten crap stuck to it while changing the studs. Also check the bearings in the spindle to make sure they are all seated right, and there is nothing on them.
Start off by pushing the hub back into the spindle by hand. You will be able to tell when you are starting to seat it. It's important that you have it straight at this point. Now install the axle puller and slide hammer. Start off slowly, making sure the hub is perfectly straight with the spindle. Now you can use the slide hammer to hit the hub back in. You can thread the axle nut back on now, and tighten it to 134lb/ft. Next put the rotor back on. Put some anti-seize on the rotor screws so it's easy to get them out next time you need to change your rotors. You should be about here now:


Step 9: A common reason for studs to break, is from lug nuts seizing. This can be caused by frequent removal, especially when hot (think after a session at the track). Another cause is from over-tightening. A good way to prevent the nuts from seizing to the studs, or galling up the threads is to use anti-seize. Anti-seize is a lubricant available at any auto parts store for $3-5. Here is a photo of the anti-seize tube, and one of me applying it to the studs:



Step 10: Cut the wire ties that are holding up the caliper, and reinstall the caliper. The two 17mm bolts should be tightened down to 80lb/ft. Now you can use your brake parts cleaner to clean the grease from your dirty hands off the rotors. Make sure you staked down your axle nut. Put your wheel on, and tighten the lug nuts to 80lb/ft. Just a little reminder here, if you go with the extended studs, and you usually use a lug wrench to loosen your lug nuts, you will need to use a 19mm deep socket from now on, to go over the long studs. Before you lower the car, grab the wheel at 9 and 3, and try to wobble it around. If there is play, than the hub is not on right, or the bearing is bad. If there is no play, pat yourself on the back and go do the other side. Here's what my POS looks like now:


Some other shots from today:

back of my dirty hatchcrap:


AE86 4ag valve covers stripping in the sun:


Comparison of studs:


OEM honda open ended lug nuts:


That's about it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Also, if there's any errors, please point them out.

Thanks to Adam (SANKA) for the help, and Lee
(743_dc2) for letting me borrow the jack yet again.

&lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"&gt; &lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"&gt;


Modified by mp5o at 6:53 PM 10/13/2005

 

great write up!

 

question. if i got a 5lug hub(itr) and 5 rotors. i will have a 5lug setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question. if i got a 5lug hub(itr) and 5 rotors. i will have a 5lug setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

so you are asking if you have a 5 lug hub, if you have 5 lugs? huh?

ROFLOMGWTFBBQ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111

 

i think he ment he is going to add a 5th wheel =P

 

Great DIY, now i have something to do for the weekend

 

ive got the studs and all i needed was a DIY write up...now im ready...thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mp5o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Axle puller 3.75"/4.5" - also available at autozone, p/n oem 27037</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does your axle puller have a pointed end on the part that pushes against the axle?

I used an axle puller before, but the damn thing was too skinny, and the end was pointed. It ended up drilling into the axle, and I had to replace the axle.

So, I've been searching for a FATTY sized one...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junkyard_turbO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Does your axle puller have a pointed end on the part that pushes against the axle?

I used an axle puller before, but the damn thing was too skinny, and the end was pointed. It ended up drilling into the axle, and I had to replace the axle.

So, I've been searching for a FATTY sized one...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't believe it did... I had no problems what so ever with the puller I borrowed from autozone.. Just make sure you borrow the right size.

 

I drove with 3 lugs on my prelude for over a year, 120+ speeds. never had a single problem, or worry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaciv95VX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drove with 3 lugs on my prelude for over a year, 120+ speeds. never had a single problem, or worry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's cus your an idiot.


No need to endanger yourself or other people cus your too lazy to put in new studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaciv95VX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drove with 3 lugs on my prelude for over a year, 120+ speeds. never had a single problem, or worry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lv6l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my lug in my front passenger side broke off. only one, when i went and took off the lugs one was so tight it just snap off, the other 3 went off fine, but than my wheel is stuck. feels like from overtime of intence heat it weld itself on the car. what do i do now???</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude that **** happened to me and i thought i was fu#$ed because i snapped 2 on the front drivers side and 2 on the back left so i stopped trying because i was tired of making it worse. on top of it i had ALL locking lug nuts AND i busted my locking nuts key (nuts, hahaha ) Anyways, i admit i'm not a mechanic so i didn't know much, after all it is my first car and i'm only 19. i went to a shop and the guy just outright fu#$ing lied to me and said i need a new ball joint assembly (he was trying to screw me into a lotta of wasted money and an alignment, what a jew) Well, YOU DONT. you'll be OK, just go to autozone and buy a new Stud, and a new replacement Lug and go to a shop and have them replace it for you. they might have to use a torch to cut the lug off but its no biggie i watched a guy do one of mine with a torch. and yoru studs are part of the hub assembley, once they get the wheel and rotor and **** off its really easy to fix. i could have done it myself had i known, and had the right tools

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question. if i got a 5lug hub(itr) and 5 rotors. i will have a 5lug setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll have 5 lugs, but you won't have 5 lug setup, get the spindle. Your existing calipers will not fit ITR rotors. IMO you should get the whole conversion.