Hawk Performance Pads
What kind of reputation do these pad have? I currently have Brembo rotors and EBC Green stuff pads, but I just purchased some PowerSlot rotors and I'm considering these pads since they are affiliated with PowerSlot. They will be used in daily driving during the week, then abused with mountain runs on the weekends.
A friend with slotted rotors said that he didn't want to put any special pad for his rotors, because the stopping power had increased... and his OEM pads had not suffered much difference from OEM rotor to slotted rotor....
But... some aftermarket pads can produce less dust... while maintaining a better than OEM productive life....
But... some aftermarket pads can produce less dust... while maintaining a better than OEM productive life....
There are all manner of brake pad manufacturers out there, and thank God they all have to pass DOT regulations.
Stay with a ceramic pad.
Hawk HPS are carried by more than a few vendors. EBC, AEM, Quick-Stop, AXXIS Kevlars also come to mind.
The differences? Friction ratings and dust generation.
P
Modified by P_Adams at 1:44 AM 10/15/2005
Stay with a ceramic pad.
Hawk HPS are carried by more than a few vendors. EBC, AEM, Quick-Stop, AXXIS Kevlars also come to mind.
The differences? Friction ratings and dust generation.
P
Modified by P_Adams at 1:44 AM 10/15/2005
Slotted/Drilled rotors do not provide any advantage for street driving, no matter how hard you think you drive. The point of drilled/slotted is to alow the vaporizing pad material to exit the space between pad/rotor so a micro layer of gas is not trapped... thus causing a feeling of brake fade. like this ghetto illustration :
<pad>||| <trapped vaporizing pad materal> ||| <rotor>
Any performance pads will actually reduce cold stopping power, cold as in ... street level temperatures. They are meant to operate at a higher mean operating temperature, not achievable any where close to street driving. The pads start to get stickier the higher temperature you push them, then fade at their max operating temperature. The spurts of hard braking during AutoX will not even get the brakes up to temperature. I know this since i do it.
To sum it up: If you dont brake to the level of boiling the fluids... on a track to be specific ... you will not take advantage of performace oriented pads or drilled/slotted rotors. The rotors will just look pretty and the feeling of "improved" braking is all in your head to justify the extra $$ you just wasted. Stick to pads with good cold friction, blank rotors, and GOOD tires for the best autox/street stopping power. Stopping power is limited mostly by tire choice btw.
<pad>||| <trapped vaporizing pad materal> ||| <rotor>
Any performance pads will actually reduce cold stopping power, cold as in ... street level temperatures. They are meant to operate at a higher mean operating temperature, not achievable any where close to street driving. The pads start to get stickier the higher temperature you push them, then fade at their max operating temperature. The spurts of hard braking during AutoX will not even get the brakes up to temperature. I know this since i do it.
To sum it up: If you dont brake to the level of boiling the fluids... on a track to be specific ... you will not take advantage of performace oriented pads or drilled/slotted rotors. The rotors will just look pretty and the feeling of "improved" braking is all in your head to justify the extra $$ you just wasted. Stick to pads with good cold friction, blank rotors, and GOOD tires for the best autox/street stopping power. Stopping power is limited mostly by tire choice btw.
Thanks P. I'm just curious how the Hawk's hold up for performance and longevity.
bluskye, I guess I didn't make it clear in the original post. I'm not exactly upgrading anything. I've worn out my brembo rotors, and I'm replacing them with simpler power slot slotted rotors. I want to swap my pads while i'm at it. I don't expect superman strength braking in town or on the highway. But I do make passes up and down some mountains in western NC and upstate SC where I need the extra performance. You can talk what you want about the temperatures, but you still don't know my driving habits. I've got $200 that says you couldn't even keep up with me. As for tires, I alternate through Pirelli PZero Nero's, and PZero Corsa's. I've done my homework on these things. Now I'm just asking about pads. Please think before passing judgment on someone and expressing your ignorance.
bluskye, I guess I didn't make it clear in the original post. I'm not exactly upgrading anything. I've worn out my brembo rotors, and I'm replacing them with simpler power slot slotted rotors. I want to swap my pads while i'm at it. I don't expect superman strength braking in town or on the highway. But I do make passes up and down some mountains in western NC and upstate SC where I need the extra performance. You can talk what you want about the temperatures, but you still don't know my driving habits. I've got $200 that says you couldn't even keep up with me. As for tires, I alternate through Pirelli PZero Nero's, and PZero Corsa's. I've done my homework on these things. Now I'm just asking about pads. Please think before passing judgment on someone and expressing your ignorance.
I had hawk HPS on my bmw before. I didnt like them, loud, and cold friction was bogus. Squeal like pigs too. I have AXXIS ultimates as of now, much better pad. Cold friction is beautiful almost on par with OEm pads.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluskye »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Slotted/Drilled rotors do not provide any advantage for street driving, no matter how hard you think you drive. The point of drilled/slotted is to alow the vaporizing pad material to exit the space between pad/rotor so a micro layer of gas is not trapped... thus causing a feeling of brake fade. like this ghetto illustration :
<pad>||| <trapped vaporizing pad materal> ||| <rotor>
Any performance pads will actually reduce cold stopping power, cold as in ... street level temperatures. They are meant to operate at a higher mean operating temperature, not achievable any where close to street driving. The pads start to get stickier the higher temperature you push them, then fade at their max operating temperature. The spurts of hard braking during AutoX will not even get the brakes up to temperature. I know this since i do it.
To sum it up: If you dont brake to the level of boiling the fluids... on a track to be specific ... you will not take advantage of performace oriented pads or drilled/slotted rotors. The rotors will just look pretty and the feeling of "improved" braking is all in your head to justify the extra $$ you just wasted. Stick to pads with good cold friction, blank rotors, and GOOD tires for the best autox/street stopping power. Stopping power is limited mostly by tire choice btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
though wut u say is true, there are street/track apds out their that r very suitable at street driving temps, companys put huge amounts of $$ into R&D, they're well aware of the operating temps of there pads,t hats why companys such as endless have so many varietys to choose from. so not all aftermarket high-perforamnce pads will only work good under high temp race situations. alot of them will work as good or better then OE at normal driving temps and is able to withstand the higher temps in spirited dirivng situations
<pad>||| <trapped vaporizing pad materal> ||| <rotor>
Any performance pads will actually reduce cold stopping power, cold as in ... street level temperatures. They are meant to operate at a higher mean operating temperature, not achievable any where close to street driving. The pads start to get stickier the higher temperature you push them, then fade at their max operating temperature. The spurts of hard braking during AutoX will not even get the brakes up to temperature. I know this since i do it.
To sum it up: If you dont brake to the level of boiling the fluids... on a track to be specific ... you will not take advantage of performace oriented pads or drilled/slotted rotors. The rotors will just look pretty and the feeling of "improved" braking is all in your head to justify the extra $$ you just wasted. Stick to pads with good cold friction, blank rotors, and GOOD tires for the best autox/street stopping power. Stopping power is limited mostly by tire choice btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
though wut u say is true, there are street/track apds out their that r very suitable at street driving temps, companys put huge amounts of $$ into R&D, they're well aware of the operating temps of there pads,t hats why companys such as endless have so many varietys to choose from. so not all aftermarket high-perforamnce pads will only work good under high temp race situations. alot of them will work as good or better then OE at normal driving temps and is able to withstand the higher temps in spirited dirivng situations
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goowakjai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so not all aftermarket high-perforamnce pads will only work good under high temp race situations. alot of them will work as good or better then OE at normal driving temps and is able to withstand the higher temps in spirited dirivng situations</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which is exactly what I'm looking for.
Which is exactly what I'm looking for.
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