Well, It started yesterday. When I accelerate hard, usually over .35g's in 1st and 2nd gear, the emergency brake warning light on the instrument cluster turn on. As soon as I let up, it turns off. Barely touching my brake handle when I accelerate, I can not feel it move at all. It has no loose play in it. Dealership told me it could be my brake fluid reservoir splashing backwards under hard acceleration and causing the light to turn on, thinking the fluid is low. WTF. The car's a 99 LX coupe, and I'm pretty sure the e-brake is cable operated since the rear brakes are drums. Any input?

 

The dealer is probably right.

I've had the same thing happen a few times in different cars -- the brake light on the cluster comes on (somewhat) randomly. Each time, it was fixed by topping off the brake fluid.

 

Ok. The e-brake has its own light on the cluster, in addition to another light that signals a brake-light is out. If the fluid were low, or appeared that way under acceleration, is it the same e-brake light that lights up?

 

yeah I would say check your brake fliud should fix your porblem.

did you bring your car to the dealer for that. shouldnt they have checked the fluid?

 

ur low brake fluid light is linked to the ebrake light, the brakelamp out light is independent to the tail ligth bulbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ur low brake fluid light is linked to the ebrake light, the brakelamp out light is independent to the tail ligth bulbs</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I'm looking for!

I didn't let the dealer touch the car since they always want $36 bucks just to look at a problem. That's what H-T is for, right? But I will double check the fluid after work. Thanks for the responses.

 

if fluid is low chk for leaks or brake wearing down,, if fluid is full u might need a master cylinder brake fluid reservoir sensor

 

the dealer is most likely right ... that happened to an accord of mine when i had a bad brake fluid lines and sometimes even leak fluid

 

maybe your car has too much power and the car is trying to slow itself down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jxi8s2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe your car has too much power and the car is trying to slow itself down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i sure hope that u r not serious with that statement,,,if u r ,

I tought i heard it all but this got to take top spot .....LOL LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jxi8s2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe your car has too much power and the car is trying to slow itself down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO. Thanks for the compliment anyway.

 

i was joking doode.

 

i think its begging you to pull it when you take the corners...it wants to be pushed harder

 

That's just the thing! I can take ramps off the interstate at over 70mph (not that i do it all the time) and it doesn't do it! Only on straight line accel.

 

did you check you fluid yet???

 

Fluid level is fine. I guess I'll pay the dealer to take a look once it bothers me enough.

 

Have you messed with your center console lately? it is possible that something is pushing ever-so slightly on the cable that operates the e-brake....that would throw the light on as well...just a thought

 

Man you are driving so damn fast that the car is telling to hold on to the ebrake.


Great stuff

 

Two things come to mind:
Loose / misaligned E-Brake switch (#) in illustration or
Chaffed wire in same general vicinity (G-Force grounds wire to chassis)

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...BRAKE

I'd do some more runting around by yourself before you surrender it to a dealership.
Can you say "Flat Rate Straight Time Electrical Repair" ? It'll be time for the Cast Iron Under Pants!!

 

i'm having the same exact problem with my 99 SI w/ hondata. Comes on if I floor it through first and second only and goes away once I let off the gas. at first I thought it had to do w/ hondata, but guess not. please let me know what the dealer finds out.

Thanks

 

Well, after topping off the fluid, the problem still existed. Today I installed my new rotors and pads, and flushed the system. Damnit if that didn't fix the stupid thing. Wish I could have further isolated it, but I am happy to see it gone. I would just about bet the flush cleared something that was fooling the system into thinking it was low. Good luck with your troubleshooting.

 

When you take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, check out the float. Clean up any crud & make sure it slides nice on that center post. Then check whether it hangs up on that screen inside the reservoir. Anything like that can cause the problems too.

 

ok, here is why new pads fixed your problem:

As pads wear down, more fluid pushes through the system to compensate for the pad travel. This, in turn, lessens the amount of fluid in the reservior.. less fluid means the float sits further down, activating the light that you saw in your dash cluster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AFAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, after topping off the fluid, the problem still existed. Today I installed my new rotors and pads, and flushed the system. Damnit if that didn't fix the stupid thing. Wish I could have further isolated it, but I am happy to see it gone. I would just about bet the flush cleared something that was fooling the system into thinking it was low. Good luck with your troubleshooting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if u had planty of fluid in the reservoir new rotors and pads will not permenantely fix ur problem,,, they have nothing to do with the electrical part of the system,, the only way new pads will fix problem is if reservoir was low and new pads will raise fluid level but as u stated reservoir was full you said u even topped it off,,,, u got an issue with the master reservoir float, it might have been sticking and it will be fine but if it happens again u need a new master reservoir cap ...