Are there any procedures to running koni sports with g/c setup? I mean can I just adjust the **** to the "sport" setting right out of the box? should I keep them ar "0 degrees" until i reach a certain milage? What is the torque specs for the allen bolt on the pearch? thanks

 

I just slap those babies on and torture it around the corners everyday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any procedures to running koni sports with g/c setup? I mean can I just adjust the **** to the "sport" setting right out of the box? should I keep them ar "0 degrees" until i reach a certain milage? What is the torque specs for the allen bolt on the pearch? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

put the koni's adjuster were ever yo u feel like it stay away from FULL stiff though.

And about the allen bolt just get it tight, DO NOT tq the crap out it

 

When will i be able to go to the full stiff setting? auto cross is coming up in a month

 

When will i be able to go to the full stiff setting? auto cross is coming up in a month . Should I run them for a certain amount of miles before I adjust the shocks to the next setting?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When will i be able to go to the full stiff setting? auto cross is coming up in a month </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use the full stiff setting immediately if you like. Full stiff is going to be way too much for the street but for autocross the full stiff rear setting will helpt eh car rotate more. On the street, very rarely does one need to be over the half way point especially if the shocks are pretty new.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can use the full stiff setting immediately if you like. Full stiff is going to be way too much for the street but for autocross the full stiff rear setting will helpt eh car rotate more. On the street, very rarely does one need to be over the half way point especially if the shocks are pretty new.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't you need to adjust it based on your spring rates though? Running race springs will need to be set stiffer than a sport spring all the time to have proper damping right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can use the full stiff setting immediately if you like. Full stiff is going to be way too much for the street but for autocross the full stiff rear setting will helpt eh car rotate more. On the street, very rarely does one need to be over the half way point especially if the shocks are pretty new.</TD></TR></TABLE>

alright cool. What about front? street and autox? full stiff is way to much? Thanks for your replies guys.

 

should u back it off full stiff about 2/3 of a turn?heard it was bad to just run full stiff or full soft

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldn't you need to adjust it based on your spring rates though? Running race springs will need to be set stiffer than a sport spring all the time to have proper damping right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

One of the advantages of an adjustable damper s that you can use it for tuning the balance of the car above and beyond the basic level of the needs of springs, etc. Since autocross requires an extra amount of rotation that is not needed on an open track or street, adding more rear rebound to a neutral or understeering car can help it turn quite bit. If you already have a lot of rear spring or rear sway bar, then you will not need as much rear rebound to get it to move. In teh controlled situation of autocross (known surface, lots of safety, no other cars, dogs, kids, etc.) then you can tune the car right to the very edge that would be too much for the street.


My normal autocross suggestion for a normally understeering FWD car would be max or near max on the rear rebound and about mid-range to start with on the front. Front there you can fine tune it for the prefered balance.

Once you go back on the street to drive home, adjusting teh rears to a similar position as the fronts will make the car more streetable and not snap happy oversteering.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowman0520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should u back it off full stiff about 2/3 of a turn?heard it was bad to just run full stiff or full soft</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should not turn it all the way hard to the max setting as there is some risjk that you could ineternally thread bind and jam the adjuster. if you simply turn it to max then back off 1/16-1/8 turn then you will be fine. If you go back 2.3 turn from max then you will be losing some of the adjustment range.

 

Thanks for your help CRX LEE.

One last question. When adjusting the damering, do you have to jack the car up then adjust then lower or can you adjust when the car is on the ground?

 

I can answer that one. The car can stay on the ground.

 

really? sweet! thanks guys