Best Bang for the Buck power wise
Ok what would be the cheapest way to get some more power out of my car? I already have a cat-back exhaust and Cold Air Intake and I have read that you wont really gain anything for an aftermarket header on a EX model as the stock one isn't very restrictive. What would be the next thing for power? I don't really want to drop the money on a turbo kit right now as I'm not crazy about this car I just would like to get more power out of it as I find myself wanting to drive the V8 truck more and more. I also don't really want to spray it as I would like to keep the car reliable.
you don't want to spend money on boost, and are not interested in nitrous.... those are your cheapest power options.
Sell your accord and get an el camino.
Sell your accord and get an el camino.
Seriously, that's a good question. But first needs to be established what you expect and how you want to drive it.
Will it be a daily driver?
A weekend Road Warrior?
A Quarter Mile Rice Rocket?
A Mountain Road Marvel?
Theres' more than one way to get there fast.
I hate making suggestions just for the sake of spending your money.
Give us an idea what you want, and I'm sure the suggestions will come pileing in.
P
Will it be a daily driver?
A weekend Road Warrior?
A Quarter Mile Rice Rocket?
A Mountain Road Marvel?
Theres' more than one way to get there fast.
I hate making suggestions just for the sake of spending your money.
Give us an idea what you want, and I'm sure the suggestions will come pileing in.
P
It will be a Daily Driver. I also drive it one gravel roads where it already scrapes so slamming it really isn't an option either. I try not to but have to quite often. I have a lifted Ram as my play toy I just need to get driving the Accord again to save money with gas but it feels soo gutless after driving the Ram. I have been thinking about getting a Camaro or Mustang but it wouldn't replace the Accord either. Basically I just want this Accord to be a reliable DD and still get decent gas milage but not be soo gutless.
I have several projects going on so just not sure I want to drop 3-5k for a turbo setup right now and have heard of too many problems running nitrous on stock internals. Well heck even with built engines I have heard of a lot of problems with nitrous.
Am I out of cheap options or is there more I could do?
How about the Cat. converter would I notice any differnce from it now if I got a high flow cat?
I have several projects going on so just not sure I want to drop 3-5k for a turbo setup right now and have heard of too many problems running nitrous on stock internals. Well heck even with built engines I have heard of a lot of problems with nitrous.
Am I out of cheap options or is there more I could do?
How about the Cat. converter would I notice any differnce from it now if I got a high flow cat?
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i guess a highflow cat wud be the next thing...other then that theres really no more cheap mods left...u can try to look around for sum new cams but i dunno how much that wud run u and wut kinda perforamnce u wud get since our F series have a serious lack of aftermarket support when it comes to the valvetrain
Personally, I'd suggest Suspention Modifications (KYB Adjustable Struts, Suspention Techniques Anti-Sway Bars and maybe a shock tower Tie Bar for the Front.
It may not accellerate faster, but you'll get there faster for not having to slow down in curves. It will certainly tighten up the steering and change the Accords personality.
I'm having a blast (carving thru highway off ramps at speed)
P
It may not accellerate faster, but you'll get there faster for not having to slow down in curves. It will certainly tighten up the steering and change the Accords personality.
I'm having a blast (carving thru highway off ramps at speed)
P
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm having a blast (carving thru highway off ramps at speed)
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i love doing that too. to the OP get some polyurethane front sway bar and endlink bushings along with good suspention. Its cheap and reallly makes a difference
I'm having a blast (carving thru highway off ramps at speed)
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i love doing that too. to the OP get some polyurethane front sway bar and endlink bushings along with good suspention. Its cheap and reallly makes a difference
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also don't really want to spray it as I would like to keep the car reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I spray my 98 EX and it has been extremely reliable. With the necessary precautions (strong engine, colder plugs, window switch, premium gas, etc), nitrous can be relatively cheap, fun, AND reliable
FI, juice, or a swap are really the only ways to impact the ol' butt dyno in an Accord without breaking the bank.
I also agree with the suspension upgrade suggestions.
I spray my 98 EX and it has been extremely reliable. With the necessary precautions (strong engine, colder plugs, window switch, premium gas, etc), nitrous can be relatively cheap, fun, AND reliable

FI, juice, or a swap are really the only ways to impact the ol' butt dyno in an Accord without breaking the bank.
I also agree with the suspension upgrade suggestions.
Suspension would be good to get.
If you don't want to spend too much money, get a test pipe maybe instead of a high-flow cat. Won't be too much gain, but it may be worth it. Though if you have a '96, which should be OBD2, then you will probably throw a CEL.
If you don't want to spend too much money, get a test pipe maybe instead of a high-flow cat. Won't be too much gain, but it may be worth it. Though if you have a '96, which should be OBD2, then you will probably throw a CEL.
I'm not worried about the Check engine light on as it is already on all the time. As long as it doesn't affect how it runs I'm ok with it. I'm thinking of doing a test pipe or high flow cat seriuosly right now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not worried about the Check engine light on as it is already on all the time. As long as it doesn't affect how it runs I'm ok with it. I'm thinking of doing a test pipe or high flow cat seriuosly right now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i've thought about getting one. I've never heard what it sounds like on an accord, but my brother's 3kgt sounded deep with even stock exhaust at WOT. Plus, they are pretty cheap.
Yeah i've thought about getting one. I've never heard what it sounds like on an accord, but my brother's 3kgt sounded deep with even stock exhaust at WOT. Plus, they are pretty cheap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not worried about the Check engine light on as it is already on all the time. As long as it doesn't affect how it runs I'm ok with it. I'm thinking of doing a test pipe or high flow cat seriuosly right now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Be prepared to get lose plenty of gas mileage with either a cheap high flow cat or test pipe and neither will really give you much of anything power wise.
Be prepared to get lose plenty of gas mileage with either a cheap high flow cat or test pipe and neither will really give you much of anything power wise.
in the same year and model accord (MT), i ran a 15.9x with I/H/E and an underdrive PS pulley. not saying that's fast, but it's probably faster than where you're at and might be a minor goal. underdrive pulleys don't add up for **** unless you do the crank pulley, which is arguably way up there on the bang/buck list. i say arguably because some people have claimed reliability issues due to off-balance vibration (one guy said it caused him a leaky main-seal).
so...main options.
1) turbo - you can ghetto fab this for under $2k, but that's still a nice chunk of change
2) nitrous - this is only unreliable if you get juice-happy and start using bigger and bigger shots...so if you don't want huge gains, sure
3) hi-flow cat - $20 says your bottleneck is the nasty crush-bent exhaust manifold and not the cat as the inside of your stock cat isn't all that small (mine's still on). but if you get a test pipe it's dirt cheap so might as well i guess
4) underdrive crank pulley - i'd recommend this for sure. especially if you have a lightweight flywheel, as then the weight balance should be even less of an issue. my friend with an NA 3000GT caught 15whp off this alone and hasn't had any reliability issues. and yes, i know a 3.0 V6 is a lot less prone to vibration issues than a 2.2 I4, but just throwing the info out there...
5) can't think of anything else noticeable...upgraded clutch/flywheel make it way more fun to drive but i really doubt they'd help your numbers
so...main options.
1) turbo - you can ghetto fab this for under $2k, but that's still a nice chunk of change
2) nitrous - this is only unreliable if you get juice-happy and start using bigger and bigger shots...so if you don't want huge gains, sure
3) hi-flow cat - $20 says your bottleneck is the nasty crush-bent exhaust manifold and not the cat as the inside of your stock cat isn't all that small (mine's still on). but if you get a test pipe it's dirt cheap so might as well i guess
4) underdrive crank pulley - i'd recommend this for sure. especially if you have a lightweight flywheel, as then the weight balance should be even less of an issue. my friend with an NA 3000GT caught 15whp off this alone and hasn't had any reliability issues. and yes, i know a 3.0 V6 is a lot less prone to vibration issues than a 2.2 I4, but just throwing the info out there...
5) can't think of anything else noticeable...upgraded clutch/flywheel make it way more fun to drive but i really doubt they'd help your numbers
Use the same proceedure as you sometimes have to do to universal Catalytic Converters, Weld a mounting bung either anywhere after the converter element, or anywhere on the test pipe. Mounting the O2 sensor there will satisfy both the OBD2 2nd O2 requirements and your Stata Emissions Tester
Good stuff that !
P
Good stuff that !P
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the same proceedure as you sometimes have to do to universal Catalytic Converters, Weld a mounting bung either anywhere after the converter element, or anywhere on the test pipe. Mounting the O2 sensor there will satisfy both the OBD2 2nd O2 requirements and your Stata Emissions Tester
Good stuff that !
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
Too bad it will still throw a code and cause you to fail the smog test.
Good stuff that !P</TD></TR></TABLE>
Too bad it will still throw a code and cause you to fail the smog test.
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