I just got a DC sports header for my b16 its the 4-1 header. It hangs so low. Ive had it for like a week now and i already have 2 big *** dents in it. I was wondering if there is a header that equals to the dc 4-1 in performance and doesnt hang so low. Ill try to get some pics up soon.

 

IMO there are plenty that"add up" if not surpass the DC 4-1 in performance. Your problem is wanting the 4-1, any 4-1 standard header is going to hang extremely low. You are better off with a 4-2-1, and will probably make much better low and mid power with one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO there are plenty that"add up" if not surpass the DC 4-1 in performance. Your problem is wanting the 4-1, any 4-1 standard header is going to hang extremely low. You are better off with a 4-2-1, and will probably make much better low and mid power with one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This man knows his headers...He's owned like 398428 of them I believe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keebler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This man knows his headers...He's owned like 398428 of them I believe </TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, 398429 to be exact j/k. Many bought from a mixture of trial and error, but most were used out of curiosity of "is it what it's hyped up to be".
Same thing with intakes. I actually did a power point presentation in college on different types of intakes for Marketing...of coarse no one in the room knew what I was talking about.

 

Least you tried to educate the public, thats all we can ask of each other

 

Thanks for the info. What is a good 4-2-1 header? Sould i just go with another dc sports?

 

The AN-R compact should have pretty decent ground clearance, I'll get some pics as soon as I put mine on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The AN-R compact should have pretty decent ground clearance, I'll get some pics as soon as I put mine on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The ANR will have good clearance. That's why I used "standard" in my first post, ANR and RMF being the acceptions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Acrx90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info. What is a good 4-2-1 header? Sould i just go with another dc sports?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hard to say what "good" is.
To me "great is "ANR/RMF" if you have the $$ and are OBD1.
I truly beleive from owning more than a few that DC is overrated. I really liked the Megan 4-2-1 stainless I had, and many other on HT will agree. It isproven time after time on the dyno to make very good power, and it is not expensive. It will not sit as low as the 4-1. I now have a Airmass stainless 4-2-1 that has even more ground clearance. I only hit my Megan when I dropped down into about a 3 inch pothole at a carwash, and once flying into the bank parking lot (stupid)my car was already lowered about 2-2.5". My current header tucks as close as one will tuck and never scrapes on anything.
I also like the 4-2-1 because I still run both of my stock O2 sensors like they should, again my opinion some will disagree, but both sensors are there for a reason, I like to use them.
You can look into several different headers, just choose one you like. If you feel comfortable with DC, get another DC. I would get the 2 piece, its much easier on the install time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my opinion some will disagree, but both sensors are there for a reason, I like to use them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree and disagree. I am OBD0 with a PR3, and have a single O2 sensor in an OBD1 manifold. It contains my wideband sensor, which has a narrowband output for the ecu. Before I ran the narrowband, I ran a 4 wire sensor (with no heater, shame on me!) to both O2 sensor inputs and the car ran fine. I did the same with the wideband, spliced it into both inputs, and again, it ran fine. I'm currently running with the O2 sensor disabled in the rom, as I'm street tuning it, but the moral is that it ran fine using a single reference for both O2 sensor inputs.

Having said that, I agree that given an option, it is better to run both O2 sensors. I have read how the ecu compares the sensors at narrow throttle angles, and feeding one signal to both sensors can cause a stumble, etc. It was designed that way, and will certainly work best that way, so if you're in the market for a header and you find one that fits the bill with 2 O2 sensors, jump on it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ANR will have good clearance. That's why I used "standard" in my first post, ANR and RMF being the acceptions. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I figured as much, just throwing a name in there in case there were any questions. Based on people's reactions to the AN-R when they see it, it certainly isn't a "standard" header by any means.

 

^^ Wideband, I want one, will have one before the ANR.
you won't find a header with both sensors in it. I use the 90-91 Integra headers, which comes with one bung in the upper collector, I just take mine and have another bung installed across from it, exactly like the one Hasport sells for $$$. works like a charm

 

I saw a Jasma (I think) in a CRX with 2 bungs, but I don't know if it came that way. But like you said, it's easier to get one added, costs all of $15.

A wideband might be the best thing you can get for your car. If I had to have one gauge, it would be the AF ratio. Once you get it, you'll never want to be without it. I have the Zeitronix and like it a lot, but there are many other great ones out there. If you're going to do much datalogging and tuning using some of the free software availible, shop based on which sensors are supported by the programs. The Zeitronix doesn't get quite as much love due to it's funky voltage curve.

 

Where did you pick up your wideband? If you don't mind me asking, how much was it?

 

Not meaning to thread jack, pm sent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not meaning to thread jack, pm sent. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The AN-R compact should have pretty decent ground clearance, I'll get some pics as soon as I put mine on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Pics would be nice. Were can i pick up an an-r header? Is there anywhere else besides their website?

 

I beleive you can only pick it up from ANR. They usually make to order.

 

Will this clear the factory radiator?

 

are you being serious?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Acrx90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Will this clear the factory radiator?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Acrx90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Will this clear the factory radiator?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only if you have your radiator ziptied to the outside of your front bumper. You'r stock full rad sits between the - and the N

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Only if you have your radiator ziptied to the outside of your front bumper. You'r stock full rad sits between the - and the N</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha! I was gonna get a JDM ITR header or a DC JDM 4-1, but after readin all this, i think im just gonna save up for a AN-R. Maybe a RMF...i dunno tho..

 

Hmm you think i could put some welds down thru where the bolts would usually go for this.....for a ceramic DC jdm 4-1?

 

I think you could do the shield for the DC, shouldn't take much work. I'd add some sort of spcer between the header and shield, just so that if you do bottom out the shield will take a little impcat before you actually impact the header.

Have you looked at the header in the perf. section that is an exact copy of the JDM ITR that comes polished or black. It has the OE locations for the skid plate and heat shield.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you could do the shield for the DC, shouldn't take much work. I'd add some sort of spcer between the header and shield, just so that if you do bottom out the shield will take a little impcat before you actually impact the header.

Have you looked at the header in the perf. section that is an exact copy of the JDM ITR that comes polished or black. It has the OE locations for the skid plate and heat shield.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the Streetimports one, i was really interested in buying that one. I just dont know about the quality n such....its so cheap tho i guess its worth it to try it out. If sumthin does happen...i have a welder to fix it haha.