I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX w/149k
I need to adjust valves. Anyone knows honda specs for them and what tools i need besides screwdriver and size 10 wrench? Torque meter etc.... dealer wants $99.95. I want to try to do it myself.
Also I noticed that my car dies at every red light or every time i stop if i rev it above 3500rpm. And sometimes it backfires between 1900rpm and 2700rmp. Also it does not idle stable. It revs it up and down between 1000 and 1300rpm. In the wet weather sometimes it gets worse.
Engine was rebuilt at 133k(f22a1). New rings/new journals. 91-92 block i think. I'm not sure if engine mods can be a cause in issues i have with it.
Thanks in advance,
-V-

Mods:
f1 racing stage 3 clutch
F1 racing lightened flywheel
Ram Air Intake
2.25in stainless steel exhaust frontpipe down(with stock cat+no resonator)
Koni RSK Adjustable coilovers(1 3/4in drop)
Sawed-off shifter lever.(6in lower than stock)
16x7 primax 618 with falken ziex 512 (215/40R16)
Bosch wires
NightLight projector headlights
Megan Racing Upper strut bars(front/rear)
Megan Racing Floor Bar

 

I would check your codes, sounds like you may have a bad TPS, or a map sensor going bad, which could cause the IAT to "search" between RPMs like that. Valve adjustment is usually pretty easy, it just takes a feeler gauge, and the correct spec which i don't know. I'm sure you can find it tho, or try asking the honda dealer.

 

You need to check really good for vacuum leaks. Has anyone messed with the idle screw? If so, you may want to unplug the IAC valve and make sure your base idle is between 500 and 600 RPM. Plug it back in and clear your code. Too much Air bleed from the idle screw can cause it to hunt, but, I don't think that is the reason its stalling.Does your exhaust smell rich?

 

pick up a shop manual...... about $50 on eBay.........

 

where is the idle adjustment screw and it does smells like it runs rich. will autozone repair manual help with specs?

 

produces A LOT of grey smoke at 5000-6500rpm. what goes wrong if valvles aren't properly adjusted. Thank you all for input.

 

Valve measurements are:

0.010" - Intake

0.012" - Exhaust

I'll be doing this same thing later. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killah3084 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is the idle adjustment screw and it does smells like it runs rich. will autozone repair manual help with specs?</TD></TR></TABLE>Screw is under the Three vacuum lines on the top passenger side of the throttle body. Rich smelling exhaust explains your backfire. Is your engine missing or stumbling? When was the last time you did plugs, rotor, cap, and wires?

 

the engnine is stumbling. also check engine light is on. my exhaust sounds like a wrx or harley, not like a honda I4 at all. Wires and cap very recent(3 months) Plug about the same, but the guys who rebuilt the engine might have used old spark plugs from junk engine, not mine.

 

You need to read those codes from your check engine light and post them. There is a sticky thread at the top of the civic forum that will explain the procedure for retrieving CEL codes.

 

is the plug under the glove compartment or is it under the little panel under it?
I really appreciate the input. thanks for all the help.

 

also which one is exhaust and which is intake? there are 16 of them. 4 pairs of 2 in front and 4pairs of two in back opposing each other.

 

Behind the kick panel. I've never adjusted the valves on this motor. If someone else doesn't tell you first, I'll find out and let you know tommorrow. Did this motor ever run well after rebuild? If it did, I don't think valve adjustment is your major problem. Get those codes first.

 

The valves towards the front of the car are the exhaust valves. The valves towards the rear of the car are the intake valves. They are labelled 1-4 with valve #1 being closest to the drivers side and valve #4 being closest to the distributor.

The codes are very important, too. The plug to check the codes should be near where your right foot would go if you were sitting in the passenger seat. It is underneath the glovebox, on the right side. If you reach under there, you can pull the plug out without having to disconnect anything. It should be a blue plug with a couple wires running into it.

Put a piece of wire or a paperclip in the two holes on the plug and turn on the car. The number of flashes determines what engine code is being thrown.

Like I said, I'm going to be doing this possibly today on a 91 LX so if you need any help or pictures, let me know.

 

One more important note: be very careful with the acorn nuts on top of the valve cover. They are only supposed to be tightened to something around 7-8 foot pounds. From what I've heard, they are very easy to break from over-tightening.

 

Thanks a lot. I'd apprecite a pic of the plug locattion. I took apart half the passenger side but cant find the plug...There is a wire running behind glove compartment into the dashh to the left and towards door to the right...tried to pull lightly, nothing comes out.

 

Here's a pic of the plug on my 91 Accord. It should be very similar if not the exact same for a 93. Hopefully this helps you find it.

 

FOUND IT! It was taped together with a whole bunch of wires. I cut electrical tape and it was inside. The Code is 1, and it oxygen sensor #1. Where is it? is it about $100?

 

again guys, i really appreciate the input.

 

On your motor it is on the exhaust manifold as seen from the top of the car. Sort of like a big spark plug. Remove it while it's hot.

 

why hot? will it make a dif if i remove cold?

 

What does o2 sensor do? is it for emissions only?

 

O2 sensor is used to keep the fuel mixture just right by monitoring the amount of o2 in the exhaust.

 

ok. thank you. that explains why my car is running 10-12mpg.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killah3084 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why hot? will it make a dif if i remove cold?</TD></TR></TABLE>You probably won't be able to break it loose cold. If your getting 10 to 12 MPG you've got more problems than just the O2 sensor. Get those codes.