I painted my car recently, and began wetsanding the orange peel out the other day.

Since this is my first paint job, the orange peel is pretty freaking bad, but not beyond repair.

So I wetsanded the trunk, the fenders, the rear quarter panels, and one of the doors. I'm ready to kill myself because doing all of this by hand SUCKS.

I have a super-duper power polisher that I bought at Autozone a few months back (does something like 8-billion RPMs). I also have a few electric circular sanders in the garage.

Is there another way to do this besides by hand? I hate to sound like a lazy ****, but jesus. Is there an attachment somewhere that I can hook up to my buffer and use that?

One more question about wetsanding.

I'm using 800 grit now, and then I'll do it again with 1000, and then 1500 grit before I polish. Is it normal for the car to be very flat-black looking at this point? (car is 4 coats of black and 4 coats of clear). I'm just hoping it is as the flat blackness of it kind of freaks me out.

Thanks for answering my questions in advance, and thanks for not flaming.

 

When your wetsanding you should never go below 1000, most dont like going below 1200. Personally, I do 1200, followed by 1500, then buff and polish.


That aside, yes, the finish will look dull and milky. At this point, it should all be flat, and have no shiny spots, this means the clear is smooth, and orange peel gone. Then you buff and polish, and stand back to a beautiful shine.

Also, make sure your buffer is a variable speed, and match the compound to the pad and speed.

You can use your polisher to apply a glaze and wax later on though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by commador &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When your wetsanding you should never go below 1000, most dont like going below 1200. Personally, I do 1200, followed by 1500, then buff and polish.


That aside, yes, the finish will look dull and milky. At this point, it should all be flat, and have no shiny spots, this means the clear is smooth, and orange peel gone. Then you buff and polish, and stand back to a beautiful shine.

Also, make sure your buffer is a variable speed, and match the compound to the pad and speed.

You can use your polisher to apply a glaze and wax later on though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very cool. Is there no other way to do it except by hand? My arms are killing me.

 

Color sanding takes time. Its best to do it by hand, However u can use a random orbital such as a porter cable 7424. I suggest buying a foam sanding pad from 3m and then using a meguiars unigrit 1500 then 2000. Then get a rotary polisher such as a dewalt 849 or makita 9227c. Keepit between 1000-1300 rpms. use a medium cut compound and be CAREFUL. Dont use that 5 million rpm bs thing u said u had. you're going to cut through your clear like a hot knife through butter..and yea back to a respray

honestly, i think you might have sanded through your clear or u will easily sand through your clear since you used 800 grit. start with 1500, then 2000. Also, sand from left to right. no circular stuff. Frequently wipe the area your sanding and check to see if the OP has been removed.

 

yeah, hand sanding is the only way, you have more control, just use a block.

^^^I think that "5billion rpm" is just a DA polisher, they usually come with terry or microfiber bonnets, it will be fine for applying a glaze, and when you wax, makes the job easier, but you really do need a buffer. Paultso listed the good ones. I use that makita, and adjust the speed for what the manufacturer of the buffing compound reccommends.

Another tip, never buff onto and edge, always buff off one. So your cutting edge sweeps off the panel, its reduces the possibility of burning through. Use light pressure, and work the compound in. The way I like to do it is work the compound until it starts to dry out, then I wipe it off with a damp sponge.

Change pads to a fine foam, apply polishing compound, and bring out the shine!

 

yea dude i would never use an orbital or anything powered for that matter when fukin with fresh paint. It's just too easy for an untrained hand to mess up the paint.

http://www.autobody101.com for more help though. a lot of autobody heads in there that know wut they r doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paultso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly, i think you might have sanded through your clear or u will easily sand through your clear since you used 800 grit. start with 1500, then 2000. Also, sand from left to right. no circular stuff. Frequently wipe the area your sanding and check to see if the OP has been removed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've only used 800 on two parts of the car, so I think I'm safe. I'll switch to 1200 tomorrow.

I also think I lucked out because I've been using 3d sandpaper. From what I read 3m is cheap and takes longer to sand, which means I still have a chance for salvation.

Also, I know I'm not into paint yet because my sand residue is still white and isn't black. if i started getting black residue I'd freak out.

Really though, the sanding is taking a LONG time. I'm thinking it's b/c the orange peel is pretty bad. I'd say I've put 5 hours into it already, and I easily have another 5 or more just for the first sanding.

Compared to the initial sanding (initial sanding being the 1000 or 1200 grit to remove the orange peel) how much sanding is required for the second phase of sanding? (the 1500 grit, or 2000 for some people). Is the second phase just as time consuming as the first?

 

are you using your bare hand to sand? or are you using a block? because i know for a fact you will get a wavy finish if you are sanding with your bare hand becasue you put pressure with your fingers, that is why you NEED to use some sort of block sander or at least a paint mixing stick with the sand paper around it.

also like everyone says use 1500 then 2000 grit.
then make sure you have the right cutting compund, then the right glaze and pad.

ther are tools you can use to wetsand, they have waterfed sanders just for wetsanding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by built562 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you using your bare hand to sand? or are you using a block? because i know for a fact you will get a wavy finish if you are sanding with your bare hand becasue you put pressure with your fingers, that is why you NEED to use some sort of block sander or at least a paint mixing stick with the sand paper around it.

also like everyone says use 1500 then 2000 grit.
then make sure you have the right cutting compund, then the right glaze and pad.

ther are tools you can use to wetsand, they have waterfed sanders just for wetsanding.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am using a block to wetsand, so I should be okay.

This sounds like a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway.

I have a polisher/sander (the 8-billion RPM one). I do not have a buffer. I also know nothing about buffing or using a cutting compound.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? I saw a few cheapo buffers at home depot (like $30). Would one of these work? What about a buffing compound? What brand should I get?

I'm glad this thread is here b/c until now I thought that buffing and polishing were the same thing.

 

alright as far as buffers go. If you have a harbor freight near you, go buy their variable speed sander, or order it online (but they usually take 3 weeks for delivering). Its a variable speed sander, with a powerful 11 amp motor. It should be on sale for 30 bux online. if it isnt, jsut wait a week and it will be on sale. Buy it orprint out the add and go to your nearest harbor freight and pick it up. second, go to exceldetail.com and buy 2 orange cutting pads and 3 green polishing pads.


Oh yea, as far as buffing compounds go, i own a detailing business and i have alot of compounds and polishes and waxes i can sell you. Email me at Paultso@gmail.com and i can ship them out to you asap and also tell you how to work them in etc.

btw, 5 hours for sanding is nothing man....just like paint a car, the painting tkes the least time. prepping your surface before u paint is equally, if not alot more important. On the same note, color sanding your orange peeled surface is jsut as important and you should take your time doing it. It will be well worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paultso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright as far as buffers go. If you have a harbor freight near you, go buy their variable speed sander, or order it online (but they usually take 3 weeks for delivering). Its a variable speed sander, with a powerful 11 amp motor. It should be on sale for 30 bux online. if it isnt, jsut wait a week and it will be on sale. Buy it orprint out the add and go to your nearest harbor freight and pick it up. second, go to exceldetail.com and buy 2 orange cutting pads and 3 green polishing pads. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm PRETTY certain my polisher is the Vector 236 (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...otive&v=glance)

I could be wrong, but I'd say i'm 95% sure of it. Will this work?

Do the cutting pads/polishing pads come attached to the black rubber backing that attaches to the polisher? If not, how shall I apply them? Can you perhaps give me an easy step-by-step for this? I use the orange cutting pads first, right? What compound do I use (just give me a name so I can get it locally please)? After cutting with the orange, do I then just polish with the green pads? Again, what compound?

I went to the website you said to buy the orange and green pads, but I couldn't find them. Can you just give me a direct link?

Sorry for the noob-ish questions, and thanks for the help in advance.

 

ok, that vector looks like its fine. However, the rubber backing plate shouldbe detachable and the screw it screws into should be 5/8 inches. Second, you need to buy a different velcro backing plate for it. and the diameter of the backing plate should be about 5 inches. the thread patter on it should be 5/8 inches. Basically the backing plate screws into your polisher, and then you take the foam pad which has another piece of velcro on it, and it sticks to the backing plate.

ok, new website. Go to http://www.autogeek.net

buy this back plate if its compatible with your buffer (5/8 inch thread pattern)
http://autogeek.net/rvp6.html

then buy optimum compound (use this after your sand with 2000 grit. Work in a 2x2 section at a time. Work in shade or somewhere where your paint surface is cool. you made need to work this a couple times to get a good finish. this product is Great..honestly, after working it in a couple times, you'll seriously have an almost swirl free finish. you'll actually think its good enough to wax...but it gets better.

http://autogeek.net/optimum-compound.html

then buy poorboys ssr1. Work this in with your polishing pad a couple times in the same manor you did the optimum.

http://autogeek.net/pblsr16.html

After the ssr1 you are ready for wax. Which you can also buy from autogeek. You can chose which one you want. All of them are excellent if your prep work before is good.

Pads

http://autogeek.net/mgw7000.html (use with optimum)
http://autogeek.net/mgw8000.html (use with ssr1)
jsut get one of each

OH yea, for autogeek, when you order use password "autopia" and get free shipping...or 10 percent off. I have to get back to you on that.

Oh yea, you might get holograms whne u start buffing because you're a newb. Just remember, use a good amount of product...about 1 ring around the polishing pad for a 2x2 section. Keep the pad flat on the paint surface, and always stay moving but not fast...id say move at 2 inches per second. and WATCH OUT on edges and stuff. clear coat is really thin in those areas. be careful whenu sand edges too. I would jsut suggest sanding all the sharp edges off and not sand them or buff them.

if this is too pricey for you, my offer still remains open. But the products i have listed are great, and you wont go wrong with them. Just make sure your buffer is compatible

 

Wow. Thanks for the help... seriously.

I still have a while to go on the sanding, but I'll order this stuff and get it ready for the buffing and polishing which I should hopefully get to next week sometime.

 

I'm with everyone else on hand sanding is where you have the most control, but if you plan on doing this alot, you might want to look into buying something like this http://store.yahoo.com/brandsp....html.

 

oh yea in my last post i meant to say "tape all the edges" not "sand"

 

you have any progress pics?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paultso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have any progress pics?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a whole thread on my paintjob, but someone on h/t deleted the thread. Besides that, I don't have any pictures for the wetsanding yet. I need to get some, but unfortuantely I need to get ready for a road trip I'm taking this weekend instead of taking pictures and sanding