i am gettin ready to do this battery relocating and i got this 5g cable for the battery to amp wire and i was wondering if i could use it since it long long for it and could i use a 9gauge for the ground ?.....how can i read how big the cable is anyway!

 

I always hear that you should use 0 or 1 gauge. I used 0 gauge (about as thivk as a dime) not including the insulation.

I paid $48 for 13 feet of it. 13 feet was exactly enough to run one the positive wire from the starter to the battery in the trunk and the rest for the ground to the rear shock tower.

 

and also i was wondering if i could use this 100amp fuse that was with my amp ...for an inlet fuse

 

i would recommend something bigger such as 2 or 0 gauge would be ideal. Small wire such as 5 gauge could be prone to electrical short/fire. It should state the gauge on the side of the wire

 

but some of them told me i could use a 4g ...and the 5g i already have is already long enough

 

alright it deffy say 5g

 

Get 0 or 1 gauge. I'm sure you only want to do it once. The whole thing will costs you about $70 to do everythnig right the first time.

You better get an inline fuse also. I already know that my 0 gauge wire will not short out for ****. A $8 inline fuse is well worth it if it keeps my car from catching on fire.

 

alright thats sounds good to me ....there this kit from summit i can buy for 40 bucks ...is that worth it at all?

 

What wire do they have in the kit?
Here's all the stuff I used:

Battery Box $10

13 feet of 0-gauge wire $48

2 new battery terminals $4

2 new eyelets $4

Inline Fuse $10

Alright $82 but still well worth it.

 

if you put it in the back and keep it under 10 feet, you need 2ga. i've done the math, and it works out. if you really need proof i'll dig it out. here is a diagram with connections, and required sizes and loads.

i also know a friend with 4ga that works, and gets only a little warm, but he doesn't run a radio. i used, and would use, 2ga. i definately would not go smaller than 4. anything bigger than 2 is overkill with normal current draws.

keep the breaker or fuse (your choice- i like the ease of the breaker) within 1 foot of the positive terminal in the back.

the solid line is the diagram you want. dotted is for a kill switch.

edit- if you are dead set on saving money with the 5 ga, at least run two lines in parallel.


::this is my diagram. don't copy the link and pretend you drew it::

 

Oh yeah, everything but the o-gauge wire came from AutoZone

 

I can draw too. LOL.

 

the real plm i have hard time finding is the damn battery box that is sealed ...i looked everywhere for it and i cant find it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knwldge54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can draw too. LOL.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your diagram looks a little weird- you grounded to the shock tower?

just ground to the rear of the car- no need to run wire up there.

and if you run a distribution block, you can keep all of the factory wires from the starter and fuse box

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkipMic2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the real plm i have hard time finding is the damn battery box that is sealed ...i looked everywhere for it and i cant find it</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used an hawker odyssey pc680- sealed/not vented- no need for a box.

lots of companies make them- summit sells a whole kit. i'm sure people will chime in with other boxes.


Modified by rsca_crx at 7:30 PM 10/10/2005

 

yea i'm running 2gauge for the tiny odyssey battery(pc680) and its running not too far from the original location of the older battery. I have my battery in that "tool box" rite behind the seats inn my crx.

 

i just want the box to be on the safe side

 

any idea where i can get one at?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i used an hawker odyssey pc680- sealed/not vented- no need for a box.

lots of companies make them- summit sells a whole kit. i'm sure people will chime in with other boxes.


Modified by rsca_crx at 7:30 PM 10/10/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>


I also have the summitracing box and a Hawker pc 680. The Summit box is HUGE! I wanted y battery to go in the right rear of my CRX trunk, but it wouldn't fit. I cut a hug chunk out of the corner and taped it up and used silicone RTV sealant on the tape. I dont have the box installed though, I'll just throw it on to keep the tech inspectors happy at the drag strip.

For wiring I have a distribution block I bought at an Audio store. It has one 0/1 gauge hole and four 4 gauge holes on the other side. The fuse box and starter go into the 4 gauge holes, and I used the 1 or 0 gauge wire out of my summit kit to go to the trunk. Right where the wire enters the trunk I have a 100A fuse that I also got at the Audio store. The battery ground goes right to the spare tire wheel well off to the side. I just drilled a hole, stripped the pain of with a wire wheel and ran a bolt through it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkipMic2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright thats sounds good to me ....there this kit from summit i can buy for 40 bucks ...is that worth it at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Go to autozone.com and under battery-&gt;battery accessories-&gt;hold downs look at the East Penn battery hold down crossbar. This is the same exact one that comes with the summit kit. Then you just get some bolts long enough to go through the bottom of your trunk up through the body and into the battery crossbar tabs which hold down the bar/battery. Get two large washers so the bolts dont go through that hole you have to drill through your chassis. For the other end of the bolt use nuts with the nylon washer on the inner part. Sine the bolt is upside down you'll want the nylon lock washer to keep the bolts secure. If you have the PC580 battery then you dont need a box, unless of course you need it to keep the track officials happy.

if you want I can show you pics of what my battery setup looks like. I'll try t take some pics tomorrow.

 

alright i got on what gauge cable and all but i just need to know where can i really find a box when i just have a stock battery and it nothing fancy abt it and it will set off fumes ...so i need a box

 

these guys are crazy 4g is fine, ive run 4g for years with no problems, 0/2g is overkill you do not need it, if you buy the summit kit it comes with 4g i dont think they would sell it if it was dangerous. ive seen gutted race cars run 8g and be ok, my .02

 

ooohh so ur saying my 5g is fine or i better off getting a 4g

 

just stop right there......you are trying to listen to too many people at once.

it's all electrics and it's first principal. The longer the distance the higher the resistance....More resistance sucks and CAN cause fire. The way to get rid of all that resistance....is a thicker gauge wire!
So stop listening to anything over 0 gauge.
I've run (ought) that's how you say it....and even Double ought (00) gauge wire for these. Don't think just b/c you have the wire already you can find the answer to fit your needs. The answer you are looking for is 0-2g wire. and everything else everybody has said so far.

i don't mean to sound like a dick but you gotta absorb the information from h-t and take that as a platform for finding more information. good luck