Will these top mounts work with my H&R coilovers ? I want some more
suspension travel.

 

mhm. just replaces the top mount that you have now. everything is the same excepth that the shock rod mount is higher, and it is made of aluminum. the shock tower bolts are a larger diameter, so keep that in mind if you run a sway bar with tight tolerances.

they also have a top hat with a weight jack (or they did), which makes corner weighting easy. i run them, but i dont know if i'd reccomend for street since it is a spherical bearing.

 

how much do these things help in handling, i bet there is less bottoming out

 

what are you talking about? theres no spherical bearing in them.

i have them and i like them a lot. not sure if they work with h&r springs or not. GC says they only work with their springs

 

guys , these extended mounts are suppose to give the shocks more travel to prevent bottoming out the shock if you really wanna slamm the car !

or so I read. can someone confirm this ??????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rob. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys , these extended mounts are suppose to give the shocks more travel to prevent bottoming out the shock if you really wanna slamm the car !

or so I read. can someone confirm this ??????</TD></TR></TABLE>

it does give more shock travel. but if your car is slam you wont beable to use much of that extra travel. because the upper control arm will start banging on the tower.

i know because i've made a simular item. look at the upper shock mount

EDITh yeh the shock body will bump up agaist the face of the upper mount.

 

rob, you have ultr-lows right? woukdnt they be designed with a shorter shock already? eliminating the need for additional travel.

 

Aren't you running H&R ultralows? Isn't 5" low enough?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rob. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys , these extended mounts are suppose to give the shocks more travel to prevent bottoming out the shock if you really wanna slamm the car !

or so I read. can someone confirm this ??????</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you still use standard crx shocks?

 

oh.... okay... so.. basically that banging noise I hear sometimes over a pothole is my upper control arm banging against the tower ? I thought it was my ultra lows bottoming out ?
So basically these shock mounts allow the use for standard size koni/tokico etc shock ??

btw: my coilovers arent all the way down..I can still lower it 1.5" - 2"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRCRXsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you talking about? theres no spherical bearing in them.

i have them and i like them a lot. not sure if they work with h&r springs or not. GC says they only work with their springs</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they also have a top hat with a weight jack (or they did), which makes corner weighting easy. i run them, but i dont know if i'd reccomend for street since it is a spherical bearing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there are two versions- the one pictured and one with a spherical weight jack.


edit: about the uca banging- take your wheel off and look up there. you'll know if it is hitting.


Modified by rsca_crx at 12:08 AM 10/10/2005

 

I have tested these on my ITA race car and come to the conclusion that they are pretty much worthless. Your upper control arm will slam your inner wheel well before you run out of shock travel....

 

that depends jizz... dont you have to consider that your shock would have bottomed out before the A arm hits the fender? thats the real point.

one thing to consider is that you need to also check if the shock body will FIT INSIDE the top mount. if the OD of the shock is bigger than the ID of the top mount, then its not going to work properly, and then youre just taking up droop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rob. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will these top mounts work with my H&R coilovers ? I want some more
suspension travel.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What i have done a couple times and had no problems with is remove the lower cup that is attached to the shock that Prevents the fork from going any higher= more shock travel. I have done this a few times on my past EF's with no problems at all and it rides way better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eL_cArLos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What i have done a couple times and had no problems with is remove the lower cup that is attached to the shock that Prevents the fork from going any higher= more shock travel. I have done this a few times on my past EF's with no problems at all and it rides way better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

???What are you talking about??? Plz more info. More shock travel = teh good.

 

he's talking about removing the brake collar at the bottom.

scroll down to PART 2, second set of pictures.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=469485

this adds droop as opposed to limits droop which extending the top hat does. its just as effective for giving more shock travel before bottoming out.

 

I forgot all about that DIY, so sweet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that depends jizz... dont you have to consider that your shock would have bottomed out before the A arm hits the fender? thats the real point.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Certianly. But the shock won't bottom out before it hits...at least not on my car. I figured that out by taking off the spring and mounting up the shock and jacking the suspension up. It is close, but the UCA hit first.

edit. I should mention that the brake line bracket was removed and the "collar trick" was performed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he's talking about removing the brake collar at the bottom.

scroll down to PART 2, second set of pictures.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=469485

this adds droop as opposed to limits droop which extending the top hat does. its just as effective for giving more shock travel before bottoming out.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yup