What do i torque the spark plugs to? lbs.

Its a 92 4 banger

 

bump

 

I dont know about torqing them I would just get them pretty tight, but if you insist on the correct torque 156in-lbs.

 

15-6ft lb, make sure you use antiseize and tread it by hand before using a wrench

your torquing it pretty tight is different from my torquing it pretty tight

 

13lb ft.

 

Do you have to take the valve cover off to change the plugs?

 

I should hope not....

 

Proper spark plug torque is 13ft/lbs If you have an in/lb torque wrench, just multiply 13(feet) by 12(number of inches in a foot) and you get 156in/lbs

It is important to know the difference between in/lbs and ft/lbs.
1ft/lb =12in/lb
If you were to try and tighten the spark plugs to 156 ft/lbs.... you would destroy the threads in the cylinder head, very very bad.

If by chance you don't have a torque wrench, I would say to tighten the spark plugs just about the same as you would a oil pan drain plug. They should have about the same feel.

No, you do not need to remove the valve cover to change the plugs, you will however need a 5/8" spark plug socket and an extension and ratchet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTechPro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If by chance you don't have a torque wrench, I would say to tighten the spark plugs just about the same as you would a oil pan drain plug. They should have about the same feel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Might think twice about that. Drain plugs should be torqued to 33 ft-lb: More than double the recommended for a spark plug.

 

I always did it hand tightened then after its tightened by a wrench (very lightly) I go 1/4 turn more...usually its pretty dead on to 13 ft/lbs.

 

don't waste ur money on a torque wrench. not to install plugs anyways .tighten with a rachet till snug and go just a bit more and u will be fine ,,i would suggest u put some antiseize on the threads prior to installing plugs ...

 

Zach, Thank You (really)
You've reaffirmed my faith in Motorheads, you knew enough to ask.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Might think twice about that. Drain plugs should be torqued to 33 ft-lb: More than double the recommended for a spark plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, this is true, but I don't think I have ever torqued a drain plug, it is just a feel thing.

 

For what it's worth, on my '99 LX I4, the owner's manual states:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Torque the spark plug. (If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug two-thirds of a turn after it contacts the cylinder head.)
Tightening torque:
13 lbf-ft (18N-m, 1.8 kgf-m)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Out of curiosity, how much do repair shops charge to replace the plugs? On this car it's very easy (right in front, couldn't ask for a better location), but I'm assuming most people don't do it themselves and hire it out.

 

If you came to the dealership to have your spark plugs replaced.... and only your spark plugs replaced.... we would charge you a half hour labor, or 45 bucks, plus the cost of the plugs. However, plugs are generally replaced as part of the major services (30k, 60k, 90k, etc).... It's a business we have to make money.

 

This person does NOT know what they are talking about. Of course you should buy a torque wrench. 3 in fact. 1/2" drive, 3/8" drive and 1/4" drive with inch pound increments. Every fastener on a car has a torque spec. You should always use those, (if you can get a torque wrench in there.) For example: the torque specs on a spark plug have to be tight enough to making solid contact with the cylinder head for a path to ground for your plugs, as the current goes through the spark plug case. But not so tight you rip out the aluminum cylinder head threads.

 

Gotta go with typhoon-torque it if you can. After tightening a million different nuts and bolts you can estimate when you have to but a torque wrench is best. Especially for lug nuts.
As for antisieze it's a good question because it does change the pressure applied. Per my 1998 civic manual:
Apply a small quantity of anti seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the cylinder head finger-tight. Then torque them to 18 N m 11.8 kgf.m, 1 3 l b n f t ) .

 

That's 13 ft lbs-my manual copy is iffy at best

 

What?? a 3/8 drive torque wrench is like $25. I've had mine for almost 15 years, just don't drop it. 13 ft/lbs is not very tight, its barely snug - use a torque wrench.

 

On the subject of torque wrenches, I strongly suggest the beam style. Once you start feeling resistance with a regular ratchet, switch to a beam torque wrench and just turn slowly until you reach the appropriate torque.

When I first started working on my (other) car, I bought a cheap ratchet style torque wrench from Harbor Freight and it overtorqued everything. You don't want to risk stripping threads or breaking a sparkplug.