Finished. Overpaid a little on the rear assemblies ($200, but they came with E-brake cables, so meh). New brembo drilled rotors off of ebay. Stainless steel braided lines on all four corners. HOP pads and fluid.

Took about 5 hours for me and my buddy to complete the project on my '99 EX coupe. We used the assemblies off of a '97 GSR. Proportion valve off of a '00 Si. Pretty straight forward swap. I would give it a 6 on a 1 through 10 difficulty scale, merely because of the amount of things you have to re hook.

I've got a little more pedal travel than stock, but I'll bet that is due to the EX having a smaller MC than the Si or the GSR. I've got the Si MC, so if the travel problem turns out to be that.. I'll swap out my EX one and pop that one in.

Last thing to do is get it aligned on Monday. Fun project. Not hard, a bit daunting at first when you just start thinking about it.. but it gets easier as you start the install.

 

i haven't replaced my break lines at all... after you replace the break lines how do you fill the MC with fluid? doesn't air get trapped inside?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i haven't replaced my break lines at all... after you replace the break lines how do you fill the MC with fluid? doesn't air get trapped inside?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's called bleeding your lines.

and the Si M/C and EX M/C are both 7/8", not sure if the booster is different though.

 

They're the same? so replacing will not reduce the pedal travel? I mean i don't mind now that I've driven with it for a few days, just bugged me a little at first.

and to civic_driver, you have to bleed the entire system to remove any air bubbles. Pretty simple task, just takes time.

 

along with the mc, right? do you have to bench bleed the mc when you replace your brake lines?

don't the ss lines get hotter faster thus causing fluid boiling problems? haven't really looked into this but might be interested in doing it when i upgrade the brake system

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. ****** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the Si M/C and EX M/C are both 7/8", not sure if the booster is different though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The original poster has an SI MC from a 99-00 SI so it's a 1''. If you haven't put that in already DO IT!!! The most noticeable difference is from upgrading the MC and BB.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i haven't replaced my break lines at all... after you replace the break lines how do you fill the MC with fluid? doesn't air get trapped inside?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You must bleed your lines like Dr. ****** said.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't the ss lines get hotter faster thus causing fluid boiling problems? haven't really looked into this but might be interested in doing it when i upgrade the brake system</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've never heard of that. I have goodridge SS lines on all 4 corners and they've never failed me yet. They are a good brake upgrade but upgrade the meat of your brakes first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The original poster has an SI MC from a 99-00 SI so it's a 1''. If you haven't put that in already DO IT!!! The most noticeable difference is from upgrading the MC and BB.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So the SI MC has larger diameter than the EX? But they both still have the same ratio. I suspected as much when my pedal went down further. Looks like next weekend I'll be replacing that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnecon2001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So the SI MC has larger diameter than the EX? But they both still have the same ratio. I suspected as much when my pedal went down further. Looks like next weekend I'll be replacing that.</TD></TR></TABLE>You're thikning of EG. You have an EM1 SI, not EG SI, right?

EG SI/EX is the same, yes. EM1 SI has a diff bolt pattern and is 1''.

 

The 99-00 SI MC is 7/8th.

Integra's came with a 1" MC, None of the 96-00 Civic's did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bradykiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 99-00 SI MC is 7/8th.

Integra's came with a 1" MC, None of the 96-00 Civic's did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct on the Si MC, they are 7/8.

 

Hmm. I have this MC which I thought to be an 99-00 one. It says 1. I'll take a pic. hm..

 

ex/si mc's are the same for eg and ek
and for the 4th (?) time, its 7/8"

If you want a larger mc, go with an integra unit - but you'll have to change the booster too because the studs are offset on one and horizontal on the other. I have a how-to, in the faq thread at the top of the page, for 1" itr mc/bb swap into ek.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm. I have this MC which I thought to be an 99-00 one. It says 1. I'll take a pic. hm..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where did you get it from?

 

Not trying to thread jack, but how do you bleed brakes? I'm about to do my rear disk swap also and I plan on just taking the old ones off, putting the new ones on, then bleeding after they're on... Just one problem... how do I bleed brakes?

 

Start from the farthest away from the MC to the closest.. so RR, LR, FR and then FL.

Pump up the brakes a few times and then hold with firm pressure on the pedal, while holding the pedal release the bleeder and leave it open for a few seconds to let out air, re-close the bleeder. and repeat till there is no more air bubbles.

Is the simple discription.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bradykiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Start from the farthest away from the MC to the closest.. so RR, LR, FR and then FL.

Pump up the brakes a few times and then hold with firm pressure on the pedal, while holding the pedal release the bleeder and leave it open for a few seconds to let out air, re-close the bleeder. and repeat till there is no more air bubbles.

Is the simple discription.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can I tell when there is no more air bubbles?

 

Oh sorry, i attach a small clear hose to the bleeder valve, so you can see when there isn't anymore air coming out, and it's just fluid.

 

Ah, thanks! Question though... Should the brake fluid fill cap be open or closed while I'm doing this?

 

The reservoir cap? I've always left it off when i do mine. So i can check the fluid level.

And my brakes stop on a dime.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

No problem, good luck with the bleeding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ex/si mc's are the same for eg and ek
and for the 4th (?) time, its 7/8"

If you want a larger mc, go with an integra unit - but you'll have to change the booster too because the studs are offset on one and horizontal on the other. I have a how-to, in the faq thread at the top of the page, for 1" itr mc/bb swap into ek.</TD></TR></TABLE>

link? not on the first page from what I could see.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=642479
there somewhere, not necessarily on the first page...maybe like 3,4,5

 

how much did the entire swap cost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrcivic13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did the entire swap cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well.. including the over priced rear assemblies.. (which I found out today right rear is bent F***) around $400USD total. That includes the assemblies, the MC, Porportion Valve, SS lines, Drilled Rotors, Fluid, and brake pads. You could probably get the assemblies cheaper at a junkyard. I called and found a replacement today for $75 (der..) and the pads and juice cheaper as well (I went with HOP). Doing the install yourself however, will be the biggest money saver.