I know in the Guidelines it said dont make a post of the first time at the track and what not so i figured this was outside those lines. In September I was at the Autocross event held in DeLand, Florida. Seeing as how i was unemployed and now im not im going to start buying stuff for my car to set it up for dd and autocross car when the events come up.

1990 Honda CRX DX
Stock with 187k+ miles

I havent had time to really look through the rule book completely and what not but i dont think that there are many restrictions as far as how much the car is moddified i mean if it is a danger to the driver or others then yeah but other then that nothing.

First thing i want to do is my DA Brake swap. I have the front spindles complete with rotors and calipers as well as the rear trailing arms and the rotors and calipers. also i grabbed the prop valve and the booster. I dont know how much this is going to affect my suspension's geometry but i know that it will. I also want to do my ls swap it is sitting incomplete only missing mounts and shift linkage.

Following plans
- Hawk Brake pads
- Powerslot Slotted brake rotors.
- Koni Yellows
- GC
- Sprint Camber kit
- 2.5" catback exhaust with 18 inch resonator
- Turbo ( i have a T3 .42/.48 that i pulled off a saab however i think im going to buy a fresh one cause i cant get the exhaust housing off . )

Also, I want to get 4-pt harnesses and drop the weight of my stock seatbelts, but i was wondering how to do this without putting in a rollcage or a rollbar.

I think that suspension a braking are the two most important things when it comes to any form of autocross/road racing any other suggestions would be cool.

By the way. Who drives the blue Acura RSX Type-S running in the third heat? He ran like a 40 flat. I talked to the guy at the last event and i wanted to see if anyone knew him.

 

If you've just started autocrossing, don't do anything to the car and go to quite a few events and get some more seat time. That's the best investment you can make in my opinion.

As for the mods you want to do, read the rulebook. I couldn't tell you what class you'd be in off the top of my head, but it would probably be the most heavily modified class, probably one of the prepareds. But none of those mods are gonna do you any good if you don't know how to drive the car well on the course.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Double_Clutchin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I havent had time to really look through the rule book completely</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is your first mistake. Read the rulebook before you mod the car. You should really decide on a class before making changes to your car, otherwise you might be wasting money on parts you really don't need.

Go to a few events and see what class you like and then make your car fit the class rules.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brianSilverTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you've just started autocrossing, don't do anything to the car and go to quite a few events and get some more seat time. That's the best investment you can make in my opinion.

As for the mods you want to do, read the rulebook. I couldn't tell you what class you'd be in off the top of my head, but it would probably be the most heavily modified class, probably one of the prepareds. But none of those mods are gonna do you any good if you don't know how to drive the car well on the course.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto, car means nothing in autocrossing. If you run over 10 cones your mods give you nothing in return. We have a special interest class that is anything goes, but you can only win it once, then your banned fo' life yo!

Here is the rulebook most clubs follow:
http://www.scca.org/_filelibra...s.pdf

I think CSP(c-stock prepared) would be your class, if the motors stock and you nix the turbo. Brakes have to be &lt;= to 13.6" rotor diameter. I believe you can modify the fuel delivery system too. (dpfi =&gt; mpfi?? may be allowed in sp)

Oh yeah, have fun too.




Modified by mntuner2 at 5:27 PM 10/9/2005

 

Read the rule book.

Find a class and build to it, or just run for now and gain experience.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should really decide on a class before making changes to your car, otherwise you might be wasting money on parts you really don't need.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd put it a different way: You should decide on a class that you can be competitive in, because if you make a mod that's not allowed in that class, you'll be bumped into a different class where you will get toasted.

My opinion: Let your budget decide your class. I did this for two years when I got my first car and started autoxing, and so I raced in stock class. Still do, actually. Because I couldn't mod my car at all without bumping into DSP, I didn't mod my car at all. The end result: Autox might have saved me money. Or at least, I spent the same amount of money learning to drive instead of making my car faster. I'm glad I did.

As for your mod list, if you're only driving on the street and autox, you could stay on stock brakes. From what I hear, slotted rotors won't really do anything but cost money.

Dan

 

If your car is not modified then here are the modifications you need to do.

1. Get an SCCA membership
2. Get a good folding chair
3. Get a good cooler
4. Get a good wide brimmed hat
5. Get a pair of $10 Mechanics gloves

Drive as many events as you can financially, drive every weekend even if it means going hours away. The only money that has been put into my car has been routine maintenance. I've spent around $1500 autoxing this year, sure I could have bought tires and shocks but that wouldn't have made me go faster.

 

true that. i know seat time is the biggest factor when it comes to racing and auto cross i mean if anyone was at the last event in deland you could of seen it i still dont knwo the guys name but the guy in the stock rsx type s hit like a 40 sec run while the evo mr was slower even though it had more **** the guy in the rsx had been driving for 9 years in autocross. On the way home today somehting happened to my car i think its related to the radiator not sure what but once it cools down ill have to look and decide on whats up befroe i go to work. im a pizza delivery guy.

 

The blue RSX is Jason Minehart. Extremely friendly guy. Feel free to just walk up and talk to him.

 

i did said he wanted to drive my rex once i get the ls swap done