Before I get flamed, I've already searched the topic. And I'm not looking to adjust the throttle cable but whether I can adjust the spring.

I have a JDM B18C, with a 65 mm TB, Skunk2 IM and idles STEADY around 1300. I checked all the vaccum hoses twice, which are all connected (no jumping between rpms, so it suggest a constant leak rather than a built up pressure leak with vaccum leaks). So I bought new gaskets for the TB and IM, properly cleaned and installed them both using sealant. I adjusted the throttle cable several times, adjusted the TB screw and unplugged the TPS sensor...still with no luck. So I had someone hold down the spring as hard as they could with the throttle cable uninstalled and the rpms dropped dramatically (somewhere around 800 rpms - almost near factory spec)! So appears the throttle isn't closing completly during idle, and I'm guessing the tenson in the spring isn't that tight, so does anyone know whether the throttle spring can be tightened?? Anyone other suggestion will help.

Thanks in advance.

 

bump

 

The throttle should have a portion where there is 2 nuts. You adjust the throttle with these. Or use the idle screw if your adjusting idle.

 

I dont think u can tighten the spring. Mine was way too loose and didnt bring the throttle back all the way when I let go of the pedal so I had to twist the wheel over one more time but now my pedal is extra hard to press!

 

What happens if you just move the two bolts further apart? If you give it like...no slack, and you bring your RMP's down, or not?

 

its not the spring...turn the bleed screw in to lower the idle....n turn it out to raise the idle...screw is on bottom of map sensor..next to the pipe on top of throttle body

 

if you really wanted to tighten the spring, why not cut it and make a new hook out of the newly cut end?

Kinda ghetto, but it'd work

 

Are you sure the cable does not have some dirt or something built up inside cauisng it not to realease all the way? I would take the cable off and and run some light oild down it, see if that helps at all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kito96LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not the spring...turn the bleed screw in to lower the idle....n turn it out to raise the idle...screw is on bottom of map sensor..next to the pipe on top of throttle body</TD></TR></TABLE>

anyone have a picture of that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nataku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have a picture of that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can see it because it is a massive screw. I thought you had to unplug your TPS while doing this, there was a thread on this procedure, but I couldn;'t find it.

 

Thanks for the help everyone but I figured it out yesterday. The TB is edelbrock's 65 mm, and underneath the pullley and spring is a screw which allows how far back the spring can go (or in other words stops the pulley due to the force of the spring). I just loosened the screw and that allowed the pulley to go as far back as I wish, which in turned closed the throttle butterfly completely. I have no idea why that option is there, especially when the instruction manual of the product refers nothing about it and to think I spent months trying different methods to solving this painstaking problem (p0st was my last resort!). At last I'm gonna be bar'd come next Tuesday!

(This will be my second visit, I passed emissions the first time but failed the visual due to my AEM fuel rail...and to all who's ever wondered: yes you can legally BAR a JDM motor, as my Civic was swapped with a JDM B18C. And plus the ref thought my timing was off due to the high idle, but problemed solved!)

Thanks again for all the suggestions (and all the other advice else which lead to finishing this project - well almost)!