ive read 4 or 5 different sets of instructions on wiring a vtec light. its very simple i know. positive lead to a4, 330phm resistor on negative leg, gorund to chassis.

Just wondering tho, however all the instructions say ground to chassis can i ground it to either pin b2 or a16 on my obd1 ecu? id much rather keep all the wires im running around (shift light, gauges, vtec light) kept to my conversion harness (obd0 to odb1) for the ecu.

Thanks a lot

 

i wouldnt ground to the ecu wiring

 

why? at same point the ecu harness gets back to the battery which in turn is grounded to the chassis

 

???

 

LOL you should be able to hear VTEC engage... isn't that enough?!?
You need a relay, you can't put the voltage meant for the VTEC solenoid through the light bulb. That voltage belongs to the solenoid stop stealing it...
Lookup how to wire a relay
http://www.the12volt.com

 

d series

and im runnign it thru an led with a 330ohm resistor

and here is another thread on it

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1261787

and a tutorial on it

http://home.earthlink.net/~civ....html

 

bump ???

 

it's not that serious...it a sohc...

 

make a small simple ground to be safe

he asked for an answer not criticism

 

Im not too sure why you want to do this, but to each his own. Completly off topic, has anyone ever wired their own **** light?

 

its jus tlike havign another gauge, so i know if its engaging or not. Ive placed it to take up an empty space in my cluster.

Ive wired in a shift light i purchased, or are you talkign about building your own? in which case youd need a relay or something to determin the point when it turns on\
otherwise a shift light is just power, ground and ur signal wire.


Modified by c0nspire at 8:09 PM 10/7/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c0nspire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ive wired in a shift light i purchased, or are you talkign about building your own? in which case youd need a relay or something to determin the point when it turns on</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya, im talking about makeing your own for like $3

 

$3 is kinda on the steep side. You need a pulse counter. Those are expensive.

 

Also interested in your little vtec light. If you ever getting it working properly post up a how-to or atleast a couple pics.

 

b00std GSX

here

http://home.earthlink.net/~civ....html

a tut on it, not mine, but another way to do it, ive gone to the ecu instead.

 

when my bro had a vtec light we just wired the positive to the vtec solenoid positive and the ground went to the body on the car... when vtec kicked in it sent out voltage and the light lit up... we never used resistors or anything

 

I think we're making things harder than they really are. This is interesting though. The rex i just bought has a mini me swap. He had the Vtec solenoid rigged to a tack set at 5 1/2, wich then is relayed to the stock ECU. Any input on this?

 

very cool how he made the "VTEC" light in his gauge cluster. Good link!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LShatchie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when my bro had a vtec light we just wired the positive to the vtec solenoid positive and the ground went to the body on the car... when vtec kicked in it sent out voltage and the light lit up... we never used resistors or anything </TD></TR></TABLE>

the resistor is so you dont burn out theled as fast. you dont need it, but im using it to prevent it from burning up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SinSeven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think we're making things harder than they really are. This is interesting though. The rex i just bought has a mini me swap. He had the Vtec solenoid rigged to a tack set at 5 1/2, wich then is relayed to the stock ECU. Any input on this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhmm no vafc?

odb 1 or 0

 

No VAFC is correct. I'll be honest with you. I've been out of the import scene for 3 years. Don't really know which way to go from here.

I believe its OBD 1

 

obd 1 ecu has the vtec solonoid wire and the pressure switch wire as well as obd1 distributor wires, a 4wire o2 sensor, and obd1 eacv. not that it all matters

with the odb1 ecu however the vtec shouldnt need to be wired to a tacch before the ecu, it should run straight to the ecu
obd0 doesnt and requires the vafc