i just want to know if it would be ok to clean it out and put it back in my car. i have a 1991 honda accord. my EGR valve is acting like sh*t and i want to know if i could clean it out and make the problem go away.

 

very evasive info to give u a proper answer.........what kind of problem do u have..........what do u mean egr acts like ****?? what does it do???

 

if you dont live in a state with emission requirments pull that sucker off and put you a block off plate there

 

Minnisotas' inspection laws (I would believe) mirror federal emissions standards for exhaust polutants and would require the presence of an operable egr valve. It is responcible for controlling NOX emissions, and you will probably not pass at the next inspection cycle without it.
There is not much penalty for having it active, It only operates at partial throttle settings, and has no effect at either idle or at WOT.
Be sure you check the passages which feed the egr as well. They may have 'carboned up' from the egr valves absense.

P

 

no Minnesota does not have emissions check anymore, they got rid of them a long time ago, so when i pull off the ERG valve where can i get the cap to put on my block.

 

what i mean that it runs like **** is that when i start up my car, my rpm's are way up in the 2500, but when i step on the gas when im in park, it goes through like a loop. Example: it would go up to 2500 and then it shoots down to 500 then it goes back up to 2500 then shoots back down. and it does this for like 2 minutes, then it kind of goes away. or when i start my car and the rpm's r in thr 2500 range and then i put it in drive and when i got to brake i really have to step on it becuase then i wont stop becuase my rpm's r still in the 2500's. i want to bypass it but then i read this one story online here and my car might run to rich, and lose HP.

 

if i can clean it out how will i be able to do this, my friend did the brake cleaner to it and i guess it started to work just fine after that.

 

well it could be your idle control valve, vacuum leak at the booster most common, or a common problem with that year accord the tranny, i just fixed an accord like that, thought it was a silenoid or something. good luck

 

no my idle control valve is brand new just put it on in the spring. but im going to try the brake cleaner on it to see if it works.

 

when you put the block off plate on there, i heard that it is very bad becuase it raises the temp in the cumbustion chamber, and the vacuum hoses need to be diverted or it wont work. has your check engine light come on, if the block off plate does work, where can i find one becuase i cant find one anywhere.

 

here i got a plan, since im so fed up with this piece of **** part. ill stick a piece of dynomite to it and run away, and see if that fixes the problem.

 

Last weekend I took the throttle body and intake manifold off my 92 EX. I had some idle consistency issues and had been getting progressively worse gas mileage for the past year. What I had was a combination of small problems adding up to poor economy and, because of the age of your vehicle, you likely are experiencing some of the same problems. EGR valves rarely go bad, but they do get dirty and plugged up. The most invaluable tool you can own for troubleshooting intake, throttlebody, and emmission problems is a hand vacuum pump. Without it you are guessing so spend $30 and get one. Pull your EGR out and apply vacuum to it. The pintle should move freely and it should hold vacuum. If it does, just clean it with a methylene chloride based brakecleaner like gumout. You can clean the pintle and seat with 0000 steel wool while applying a small vacuum and they will shine like new. Most EGR problems are plugged ports in the intake. This is not just the 2 holes you see from the top and only cleaning these openings will not solve the problem. The ports run across the intake parallel with the head and there is a small hole opening into each intake port which cannot be seen. I had to bend a piece of 1/16 steel wire into a hook to open these holes (with the intake removed) and use a test tube brush to help loosen the carbon in the ports. And lots of brake cleaner. Finally I bent a piece of 1/8 soft brass tubing into a hook, inserted this into the holes, and used this as a guide for the spray tube of the brake cleaner. I work for a laboratory and had access to pure methylene chloride and I still had to go through all these steps to loosen the carbon. There isn't any spray or gas additive that will do the job. Once clean, I removed all of the other valves off the throttle body and cleaned them and replaced the orings and seals. All of the orings were flat and hard as a rock. I also found the booster valve didn't hold vacuum and replaced it. Small leaks add up and these orings and seals are all under $2.50 . Since I had the intake out, I replaced the seals on the fuel injectors which were also flat and brittle. Once everything was back together, I fired it up and the Idle surged from 800 to 1500 and back and forth. I hooked up vacuum to the EGR to open it up and the idle smoothed out. The IAC was hunting because the Idle screw was out too far to compensate for the problems that I just fixed. Upon dissconnecting the IAC and setting base Idle to 500 or 600, she settled down and runs great. I especialy notice the increase in power between 50 and 75 MPH at mid throttle. Most of the posts on this site would have claimed that my problem was the fast idle valve or the IAC or the EGR.Both the IAC and FIV were doing there job but they were not designed to reign in what was in effect an air leak in that the idle screw was bleeding too much air. The moral of this long story is that all systems are connected and sometimes what you think is the cause is actually the effect. And on 13 to 15 year old cars, basic things such as air leaks rule the day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickhans &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i mean that it runs like **** is that when i start up my car, my rpm's are way up in the 2500, but when i step on the gas when im in park, it goes through like a loop. Example: it would go up to 2500 and then it shoots down to 500 then it goes back up to 2500 then shoots back down. and it does this for like 2 minutes, then it kind of goes away. or when i start my car and the rpm's r in thr 2500 range and then i put it in drive and when i got to brake i really have to step on it becuase then i wont stop becuase my rpm's r still in the 2500's. i want to bypass it but then i read this one story online here and my car might run to rich, and lose HP.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like u got a problem with the fast idle valve,,,,,,,,

 

okay thanks man ill do what i can to fix it.