i've been trying to adjust my clutch so it engages not so high. well, now i have a problem with it engaging way to low and i can't fix it! it engages less than an inch from the floor and is wicked hard to drive with. the only way i can make it engage a little better is if is set the push rod way and out and have the clutch pedal height very high. i've used the helms manual schematics but nothing works. it seems as though what the helms manua is telling me is wrong. is something wrong with my car?

could somebody get underneath their pedals and take measurements or pictures of the spacing of the master cylinder push rod, how far the top sensor is screwed in and how far the free play sensor is screwed in.

is it possible that from adjusting this stuff to much that i could have broken the master cylinder?

 

My first suggestion is to put it back to the way it was and bleed it some more. See if that helps any.

As for messing up the clutch master slave by doing what you did, I am sure it is possible.

 

see, the problem is, i tried putting it back to stock (by the helms) and it still engages very low. and i've never messed with bleeding it before. why would it have air in teh system?

 

do you see any liquid down by the pedel? If so, you may need a new master cyclinder, but if you change that out, change the slave cyclinder as well. When you change one out, you should change the other to be safe

 

i'll have to check. i can feel grease near the end of the push rod, but toward the master cylinder i dont' really remember. if i have to buy new master/slave cylinders, will i have to bleed the abs along with the brakes or just the brakes? i heard the abs system is a little harder to do and is usually recommended by the dealer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yOnKiNaToR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll have to check. i can feel grease near the end of the push rod, but toward the master cylinder i dont' really remember. if i have to buy new master/slave cylinders, will i have to bleed the abs along with the brakes or just the brakes? i heard the abs system is a little harder to do and is usually recommended by the dealer?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The abs system has nothing to do with the clutch. This is something you can do yourself, well actually, you'll need a friend to help you out when you bleed the system

 

grease is okay (lubricates the rod)...as long as there's no clutch fluid leaking from the MC, you're fine. the bolt should be about 8-10 threads from the MC.

{Bolt}||||||||========[MC]

And there should be some play (about .52inches) before fully disengaging the clutch.

 

what about the top sensor? the one that is supposedly for disengagement? it's above the free play one and has a 14mm bolt to loosen it. you can see how many threads it's screwed in if you look just right.


i got under there with a flashlight and i noticed what seemed like a lot of grease from the mc but possibly some liquid too. all i know is that my pedal is way higher up than my brake and it still engages at the floor. i ordered a new mc for about $50 and i'm gonna put it in even if the one i have isn't broken. i figured that my '92 with 131,000 miles couldn't hurt having a new mc.

hopefully this works.

 

that top sensor you speak of is a safety switch for when you start your car, it disengages the clutch...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khalal538 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that top sensor you speak of is a safety switch for when you start your car, it disengages the clutch...</TD></TR></TABLE>


ahhh, i see. i wish the helms manual said that out in plain words like you just did. i was under the assumption of that locknut changing the disengagement height. (that's what it says in the helms)