i saw someone post this. Is it true? if it is that would mean an OBDI H22 wouldnt need a resistor box?


"To answer this question based on your other posts, OBD1 injectors are saturated, and do not require a resistor box. "

 

OBD1 H22 does need a resistor box. OBD2's do not.

 

ok is there anyway to test to see if its working right?

 

you can use a multimeter and test the reisistance on each wire.

 

ok with the engine cranking? or ignition on? and what should the resistance be? thanks

 

engine on. injectors to box, it should be 2 or 2.5 ohms (can't remember which), and box to the ecu it should be 8 or 10 respectively. I'll have to search to get the exact numbers since I can't remember it off the top of my head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBD1 H22 does need a resistor box. OBD2's do not.</TD></TR></TABLE>

?? OBD2 motors DO need a resistor box to run low impediance injectors.

these are all saturated. (aka need a resistor box when running dsm injectors)
1997-up Prelude VTEC
1992-95 Civic Si/EX
1996-00 Civic
1992-00 Integra LS/GSR/ITR

these are all peak and hold: (cars that COME with resistor boxes from the factory)
1988-91 Civic/Crx Si/HF
1990-91 Integra
1992-96 Prelude non-VTEC
1992-96 Prelude VTEC

1g DSM Non-Turbo 4g63 240cc
2g DSM Non-Turbo Uknown if works
1g DSM Turbo Automatic 380cc
1g/2g DSM Turbo Manual 450cc


got that info from: http://www.homemadeturbo.com/t...ctors/
so it looks like your obd1 h22 falls into the peak and hold category, meaning you don't need a resistor box. I would use a volt meter to make sure, though. You would probably have to test it with the car running, although i'm not positive. Should be around 2-2.5 ohms



Modified by vsm98civic at 12:00 PM 10/3/2005

 

ok so cranking the engine because it wont start

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by huge230 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so cranking the engine because it wont start</TD></TR></TABLE>

cranking is fine. as long as they are spraying.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsm98civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

?? OBD2 motors DO need a resistor box to run low impediance injectors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Saturated do not need resistor box, peak and hold do. the stock obd1 h22 (345 cc) injectors need the box, and the obd2 h22's (290 cc) do not.

 

Ok, I am misinformed. We're talking about two different things, so it depends:

OBD1 motors come with resistor boxes from the factory, so yes they do NEED them.

I was inferring that he was putting peak and hold injectors into an OBD2 car. Such as dsm 450's into an obd2 car. I guess I didn't read it right my bad.

 

ok so i did the right thing but it just wont work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by huge230 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i did the right thing but it just wont work</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure your injectors are the problem? what is the car doing?

 

well it will turn over and no sign of starting at all. The pump primes so thats fine and its getting spark for sure. So only thing left is the injectors right?

 

you need 4 things to start a car.
1. spark
2. fuel
3. timing
4. compression

are you sure your timing is correct?

 

well there is spark
compression is ok
cam timing? Im pretty sure its good but wouldnt it try and start anyway
and fuel pump primes but dont know if the injectors are firing or not. Im going to check the resistance tonight when i get back home
ill keep you posted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by huge230 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cam timing? Im pretty sure its good but wouldnt it try and start anyway
</TD></TR></TABLE>

cam timing kept my swap from starting.

 

how do i check that then? it has been untocuhed as it came from japan. the arrows on the cams line up with each other

 

i replaced my timing belt (preventative maintence), and if I remember correctly, the arrows both point up (at tdc) and there is a mark on the gears that lines up with the other gear. you may want to check that, because if the arrows are pointed at each other, it def won't start.

 

no they arent pointed the way they should be straight up

 

then I would redo the timing belt. Its a good idea to replace it anyways. If the belt goes while driving, you can really mess up the motor. Do you know how to set the motor to tdc?

 

no i dont?

 

96 H22A prelude is OBD2 which also feature peak and hold injectors.. .

 

if i had an OBD II though the ECU wouldnt have plugged in

 

take the valve cover off and pull spark plug in cylinder 1 (closest to timing belt). Take off crank pully. turn crank (direction motor spins) until the dot on the gear lines up with the mark on the block (straight up). take a long screwdriver and drop it in where the #1 spark plug was. if it hits the piston, your bottom end is at tdc. if it does not, then turn the crank one more revolution and you'll be there. now slide the belt off the cam gears and align each so that the arrow points up and the little hash marks line up with each other in the middle. Usually the gear 'falls' into place once you get it close. Then reinstall the belt and crank pully, and you're good to go. Make sure you search on the autotensioner before you do this though. It can be a pita to retension the belt afterwards. I recommend the manual tensioner conversion if you have the time.

 

ok i can check it out
thanks ill let you know