old dyno sheet https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1292294

81.5mm gsr block/stock crank
honda bearings
eagle rods
cp 11:1 pistons
gsr head, stock not milled
ferrea valves, supertech springs/retainers
itr lma's
sk2 stage 2 cams/gears (set on 0-0)
sk2 intake mani with 65mm TB
ITR AEM cold air intake
prelude 290cc injectors
B&M FPR (set at 40 psi)
dc sports JDM 2.5" header/test pipe/tanabe racing medalion cat-back

act streetlight flywheel
exedy street/strip clutch
CTR LSD tranny, stock axles

kevin (speedworks on HT) looked at my old A/F, and made some adjustments a few days ago in crome, ran the new program tonight on the dyno, better looking than before, made about .5 hp more than back in june

i know i need cam gear tuning, and guys dont fuss about the dyno being in this or that format, or whats the humidty, because this is the only way they print out, was on a dynojet, mid 70s outside, 7:40pm october 1st 2005, elevation about 1400 ft or so

best track time was 14.09, at 95 mph, most ITR's only run 15.0 or so here, some 14.9s, to give you an idea of the elevation and everything
..AND this is in a 3020lb car

EDIT-10/2006....motor went 13.5@99 in a si hatch

(2765+255lb driver) 94 4 door gsr with full interior minus spare tire.
NEW INFO: i forgot i got new tires the day before the dyno, i went from a 205/55/15 to a 205/50/15. shorter tire...




cam gears at 0-0 ,crank dead on white line







Modified by darrinbrewer at 11:19 PM 2/27/2007

 

Your numbers are low for the setup you have.
I would recommend you do a compression & leakdown test & or more tuning.
Good luck.

 

Should be more power in that setup-tuning-tuning-tuning.

 

yeah i have kinda the same setup but with stock TB, stock header and ITR cams and i made 182.5whp and 131.1wtq

 

did you atleast resurface the valve seats when you put the new valves in? Generally they wont seal properly giving you low compression/low #s if you dont.

 

Looks like a lot of real estate underneath the curve.

 

had a machine shop do the valves, pretty sure they did the seats.

this is the mountains of north east tn, near the NC/VA borders...times are notoriously slower here at bristol dragway, so i'd probably do better lower on elevation.

cams haven't been tuned at all yet, so that will net some more hp, on 20x8x14s i ran a 14.3 @ 93mph, with a 1.9 60' ft'...ITRs run 15 flat usually here....

been driving the car since march, runs great, no problems at all..the head was on my previous setup of itr pistons in the block


Modified by darrinbrewer at 3:02 PM 10/5/2005

 

ran some better track times, added info above

 

You're car is begging for a final drive.

 

i know it chris, i'm not ready to break into the tranny again, if these carbon coated synchros give out, i'll definately look into that...seems like i read something about if the diff is removed it has to be retorqued or soemthing (i saw a pic of a dude with like a 5 ft pole turning it) but they may be only if the diff itself was diss assy'd...i dont know, but i know i want a 4.78 or higher

 

FD install is easy. I'll do it for a 6-pack of chocolate milk.

 

i tuned almost an similiar setup:

B18C1 engine
81.5mm CTR pistons
S2S2 cams
SKUNK2 IM
64mm TB
I/H/E

The car was tuned with uberdata and made 183whp and 133ft-lbs of tq on a dynojet. motor was only reved to 8300rpms. u should not rev ur car past 8600 rpms cuz u stop making power.those numbers u put down seem normal to me.

 

For no cam timing adjustments, I'd say that's a pretty good dyno. Get those cams adjusted when you can, it makes a difference.

 

numbers for the thread starter and boosted k20 seem really low, but props for closing in on almost 14 flat in the quarter mile . Its still all about the tune, get the gears dialed in and see what happens.

 

Where can I find the CROME?

 

crome is like uberdata, pretty much a free hondata, all's needed it a socketed p28 (or p06 for that matter) its available free at pgmfi.org, go check it out

boosted K20= for the same setup as me, EXCEPT CTR pistons, that should have more power, my pistons have hardly no dome, just a slight raise, i know those CTRs are making a lot more compression than me, which mean it should make more than 3hp difference, here's the 11:1 cp's:



pretty much a a jdm itr piston when comparing dome, nothing crazy like PCT/ctr's

 

NEW INFO: i forgot i got new tires the day before, i went from a 205/55/15 to a 205/50/15. shorter tire...

 

the motor was smoking a bit when the kid came to dyno. probably needs new rings

 

well just ran a better time last night, 14.07@95mph...so i edited the above thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darrinbrewer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well just ran a better time last night, 14.07@95mph...so i edited the above thread </TD></TR></TABLE>

Motor Mayhem?

I toasted some crotch rockets out at Shady Valley today.

 

i decided against the 4.92 or higher FD now... i was reading a few threads, and its actually gonna hurt for drag racing, it'll put me in 5th gear, which will slow me down, i'm at about 7800 in 4th gear at the end of the track, but the ats is good for everything else, this motor will go into a hatch eventually. here's a thread to back up what i'm talking about https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=300231

 

Change cams and retune. I know some that should peak at around 9,200 on your setup.

 

afr's are too rich. you should be aiming for 13.5 across the board with around 12.5-13.0 at redline

 

probably some cams that will eat the **** out of my rocker pads too i may have free access to some m22s in a few weeks, i may see how they do

 

updated info in 1st post...like my 14.07 1/4 was in a 3k LB+ car