Im thinking of buying a b20 and keeping it stock maybe even a few bolt ons but i was wondering if people like it stock in there coupes and hbs.Ive also searched for info on how to do the swap into my 92cx but i cant find any

 

I was impressed with my B20, compared to a stock B18. I had mine in a EF though, with intake, header, and exhaust. That was good for a 14.3 on falken ziex's. in Salt Lake City.

As for the swap, it's just like any other B series swap.

 

my buddy had one in his EG before he got on itr motor, the thing pulled good, he ran a 14.6 i think for his first time out on the track, stock b20 (no bolt ons) in an EG, 2.0 liter dual cam vtec, the engine has hella torque, thats its ++

 

i have one on my 00 civic hatch, and i am loving the power band at low rpms. the only thing that scared me the most cracking the sleeves. just be sure you dont rev it too high!

 

im about to swap my b20vtec in. I think it a great motor. My homie has a turbo b20b stock motor and is running 12.0@118. he is making like 278whp. im going the NA route and i cant wait. When you decide to swap in your motor let me know cause im always down to help. im in tacoma

 

i thought you were selling it? mi4

 

yeah i want to trade or sell it, but if i dont get what i want for it. ITs going in in a couple of months

 

The torque is awsome for daily driving. Compare to my ls motor, it's like night and day.

 

bump for b20

 

i have fairly built CRVTEC in my EK. what a change. b20 has good torque longer rod stroke that B16. but if you build one for vtec make sure you usea b16 head. out flows in stock form over a GSR head. and you dont have to build it with like dart sleeves a a golden eagle block does the job just fine mine revs to 10k all day with out being scary.make sure you use gsr rod bearings for oil flow to the crank and nget the rods knotched because b20s dont have oil squirters to cool down the pistons

 

I had a b20z and sir tranny in my 00 ek hb . It was awesome . It had some minor bolt ons , stock sir (si) exhaust manifold , skunk2 LS intake manifold , ebay cai , and aem pulleys obd1 LS ECU (p75) . I just recently sold it to a buddy , he has it in his 96 ek hb . Just came off the rollers and his numbers were a 156 whp , and 140 tq ( dyno dynamics ) . You can drive around town in 5th gear with it .

 

id rather have the gsr head over a b16 head and here is why

taken from B20vtec.com
well, its obvious at this point really... if they both cost the same and milage is not an issue, u should go with the gsr head for the extra compression. heres a dyno graph to help u make ur mind (and all those that dont believe a b18c1 head makes more power than a b16 head): http://www.importreview.com/re....html

 

Damn look at all the WA people in this thread lol

So you guys like your B20s better than LS's? Almost making me want to change over

 

bump for more opinions and help on finding a b20z(b20b the same?)

 

For my daily driver, Ive a stock block b20vtec and i used to have a built B16. I said it before and ill say it again, the 2.0 is so much faster and more fun to drive than my built 16. Its just no match. Torque is crazy its addicting.

 

I have a b20b with stage 2 clutch and 71/2 pound fly wheel with SI tranny and intake its great for a daily driver lots of tourqe feels good

 

Here is the B20 thread for your reference.

I am about to receive a JDM B20B block in my 2000 hatch. The engine comes with a JDM ITR tranny with Kaaz LSD. I test drove the car (it is in an ITR now) and though I was a bid afraid to push it (since it isn't my car) but from passenger side feel, it was great.

It is a stock engine, 9.2CR with P75 head. Just a header, ITR cat, Spoon N1 and a ARC intake pipe for bolt-ons. I will let you know how it feels after the swap.

I wouldn't mind get it dynoed if I have a chance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for more opinions and help on finding a b20z(b20b the same?)</TD></TR></TABLE>
The USDM '97-98 B20B has low compression, 6200 RPM redline, and is rated 126hp. The USDM '99-01 B20Z has higher compression, 6800 RPM redline, and is rated 146hp.

The JDM B20B has 2 versions: an early low compression version like the USDM B20B, and a later high compression version like the USDM B20Z.

Check here for more information on the B20B/Z (keep in mind that some of the swap information is '88-91 Civic-specific). Scroll down about 2/3 of the way.

The thread that Nova_Dust posted has some excellent information, make sure to read it.

 

thanks everyone keep the opinions coming

 

I have a 2001 B20B with a B16A2 tranny in my 94 EG hatch, non vtec, and its cool. I can jump right into traffic, without having to wait to get up to speed, but I cant downshift on the fwy at like 70mph cause Im already at like 4500-5000rpm. You might wanna get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator though, cause the LS computer's maps don't give the motor enough fuel IMO. I am in the process of putting in a B18B so I can register my motor swap, then maybe I might put the B20 back in if I dont decide to sell it, its such a good motor, cause its not that old, I just cant smog it. Stupid BAR. Its a good daily driver, but it's not the same without the VTEC, my other hatch has a B20Vtec and its nuts (not bananas). 5th gear, just push the pedal to the floor, and you pass cars. No need to downshift. Super fun, but too loud with straightpipe and it runs rich on the Mugen program. Maybe thats just cause of no cat.

 

so when you guys say b20 vtec do some come stock with vtec or are you refering to a b20 with a head swap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DjGuamstyles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> No need to downshift. </TD></TR></TABLE>

O SO TRUE. Having shitload of torque is just so much fun than having to go 8000RPMs to pass other cars on the highway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ECKO1980 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so when you guys say b20 vtec do some come stock with vtec or are you refering to a b20 with a head swap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well when i say b20vtec im talking about b20 block with a Vtec head. i currently have a gsr head for my motor. I havent drop it in yet, just waiting on some mounts and wiring harness and ill be good to go.

And b20s dont have vtec stock..gotta swap a vtec on them.

You go stock b20
1 layer headgasket
mill the head a little
i/h/e and you be good to go.

 

I wouldnt mess with the hg and milling the head on a stock block . The pistons and rods are weak enough . You are gonna want to add a crank girdle as well .

If you are going to do a crvtec properly , then do some research and build the block . Doing it right once , instead of breaking stuff is a much better way to go . Use the search function , there is a lot of good info on building one on here .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PlusOne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I wouldnt mess with the hg and milling the head on a stock block . The pistons and rods are weak enough . You are gonna want to add a crank girdle as well .

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does the head gasket have to do with rods and pistons? Why did you say B20 pistons are weak?