does the axel have to be removed to get the rotors off on the 93?

 

you have to take off the axle nut and the only way ive found to get to the screws in the back is to remove the axle from the hub/rotor assebly. you dont have to remove it from the tranny but i usually do just to get it out the way.

 

Removing the rotors on a 93 accord is not really an easy task. The hub/bearing assembly has to be removed from the knuckle. This is not usually very simple, as there will be 12yrs of rust and corrosion holding things together. I would ask why you want/need to replace the rotors. If you are just changing the pads, leave the rotors in place, they don't need to be replaced when pads are installed - regardless of what the guy at Auto Zone says. If you have a brake pedal pulsation, then I would look into having them machined. At the dealer I work at, we replace front brake pads and resurface the rotors for 195.00 including parts. If there is no way around replacing the rotros... if they are ground up, or grooved or too thin to cut, then you will have to replace them.

 

i'm performing this rotor/brake as we speak...pm me for futher info... not to highjack your thread or anything, but whats the torque spec for the 12 pt bolts to go back into the bearing and hub assembly??

 

well my pads are fubard, there rusty and I took them off a while ago and they started falling apart and the inside of the rotors have what im going to say is only about 1 inch of coverd surface area theres about 1/2 inch of rotor on each end thats not being touched on the outside and the pad is all warn on the outside and not in the middle, my friends brother is going to do the work tommorow, he used to be a mechanic and hes doing it for free. my pedal has to almost be pushed to the floor to stop good, my back brakes are new

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTechPro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Removing the rotors on a 93 accord is not really an easy task. The hub/bearing assembly has to be removed from the knuckle. This is not usually very simple, as there will be 12yrs of rust and corrosion holding things together. I would ask why you want/need to replace the rotors. If you are just changing the pads, leave the rotors in place, they don't need to be replaced when pads are installed - regardless of what the guy at Auto Zone says. If you have a brake pedal pulsation, then I would look into having them machined. At the dealer I work at, we replace front brake pads and resurface the rotors for 195.00 including parts. If there is no way around replacing the rotros... if they are ground up, or grooved or too thin to cut, then you will have to replace them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take from this guy, its not as easy as it sounds, it took me almost half a day just to get the dumbass axle nut off, and when we finally got the axle off and all bolts behind the rotor holding it in place off the rotor wouldn't budge, took us two days to figure out that it wasn't going to work, we finally gave up and took it to the shop to have the rotors resurfaced or whatever they do

 

u guys are making it sound like a real hard job to replace rotors , it is not that bad at all.. the hardest part is to remove the 36mm axle nut .....if u don't have any air tools this is what u do...........remove center hub cap, car still on the ground. in park, e-brake on,, loosen the 36mm axle nut, also loosen and not remove the 4 14mm bolts that hold the rotor ,,,,,once loose, raise the car, remove the wheel, remove axle nut, remove 2 17mm bolts that hold the caliper and swing it out of the way, remove cotter pin,loosen up but do not remove castle nut from lower ball joint completely, leave it in a few threads , the reason u are going to get a hammer and hit the lower control arm to separate the ball joint and just in case u miss and u might screw up the threads ,,once separated, totally remove nut , lift up on the knuckle assembly, get axle out of the way, on the back side where the axle went into the hub there are 4 10mm 12 point bolts, u need a 12 point socket , once those are removed, at this point i would get the axle totally out of the car , just pop it out of the tranny and slide it through the wishbone,it wont be in the way,,, put the ball joint back into the control arm, loosely reattach the nut, get a hammer and hammer the rotor out,it will come out as an assembly with the hub, once out , remove the 4 14mm bolts that u loosened up at the begining, replace rotor,,,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a hammer and hammer the rotor out,it will come out as an assembly with the hub,,,,</TD></TR></TABLE>

Removing the hub assembly from the knuckle is usually the worst part. The bolts and axle nut usually always come off no problem. The issue comes with the hub rusting into the knuckle. Some parts of the country don't have this problem, but here in the rustbelt, we do. Usually, once you remove the bolts from the back of the hub, you could hammer on the rotor all day long and it won't budge. I usually use a slide hammer attached to the lug stugs, and pound away. About 50% of the time the wheel bearing seperates and only the hub comes out. Not a big deal, but you need to press the other part out then. Trust me, rust complecates things alot.

 

I started to do mine got frustrated and called my mechanic. He took almost 6 hours to do the job, he stated they was also factory rotors so next time it should not be as bad. LOL Our 93 model year rotors in the front can be a b#@ch!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTechPro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Removing the hub assembly from the knuckle is usually the worst part. The bolts and axle nut usually always come off no problem. The issue comes with the hub rusting into the knuckle. Some parts of the country don't have this problem, but here in the rustbelt, we do. Usually, once you remove the bolts from the back of the hub, you could hammer on the rotor all day long and it won't budge. I usually use a slide hammer attached to the lug stugs, and pound away. About 50% of the time the wheel bearing seperates and only the hub comes out. Not a big deal, but you need to press the other part out then. Trust me, rust complecates things alot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

believe u me i know all about rust... i lived in madison wisc for 18 yrs and work at a honda dealership Zimbrick for 8 years ,,my best tool was the TORCH i am sure u know what i am talking about ....living here in AZ you are correct i don't have the rust problem so it would make it a bit easier ,,,,,,,,,
as well i use a tool i got from matco ( hub bearing tool ,,) LT 825 , same size as the bearing , it fits into the center from the back side so when u hammer it , u are hammering directly into the center ,,,,,,i dont know wether u are familiar or have used it ,,but if not, next time the Matco guy comes around your shop take a look at it ,,,,,,,,it might help

 

damn ok heres what happend, we got the parts and had to buy a hub puller and ****. after 3 hours of trying and having no clue what to due I said screw it I took it to a shop that did it right away. 317$ labour 3.5 hours flat rate it only took them 2 hours tho shitty deal but oh well at least its done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stealthman80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">317$ labour 3.5 hours flat rate it only took them 2 hours tho </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is why I love what I do. I don't rip people off, but I can beat flat rate by alot, and that where the profit (gravy) is.

 

Yeah, that's ripping people off.

 

yeah well thats the way the system works you sign for 3.5 hours so you pay for 3.5 no matter if it takes 1 hours or 5, its a good system but a shitty deal if it takes alot less time, but its an average time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, that's ripping people off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i can see that u have never been a tech nor you got a clue how the sytem works, so u bitch and feel ripped off ,,,,,,,,,,,but yet u are willing to pay the doctor 50 dollars for 30 seconds of his time and if what it does , does not work u got to pay him again to see u again for the same illness , well as a tech if u dont fix it right the first time u dont get paid when the car comes back ,,,,,,,,,,,that is how a good tech makes good money he has to be fast and good and that comes with knowledge . many knuckle busted,many years on the job , because if not fixed the first time he does not get paid to do the same job again and dont forget the thousands and thousands of dollars they have to spent on tool box and tools, special tools etc etc ...

 

I know different subject but how long does it take to change the spark plug tubes, valve cover gasket and tune the valves? Dealer local to me said with parts under $100. Is that a deal or ripoff????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejc3110 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know different subject but how long does it take to change the spark plug tubes, valve cover gasket and tune the valves? Dealer local to me said with parts under $100. Is that a deal or ripoff????</TD></TR></TABLE>

to adjust valves most dealers take 1 hr flate rate so it all depends on their hourly rate ..valve cover gasket is around 10 dollars the spark plug seals are around 3 dollars each ,( there are 4 of those )..so under 100 sounds about right ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deserthonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i can see that u have never been a tech nor you got a clue how the sytem works, so u bitch and feel ripped off ,,,,,,,,,,,but yet u are willing to pay the doctor 50 dollars for 30 seconds of his time and if what it does , does not work u got to pay him again to see u again for the same illness , well as a tech if u dont fix it right the first time u dont get paid when the car comes back ,,,,,,,,,,,that is how a good tech makes good money he has to be fast and good and that comes with knowledge . many knuckle busted,many years on the job , because if not fixed the first time he does not get paid to do the same job again and dont forget the thousands and thousands of dollars they have to spent on tool box and tools, special tools etc etc ...</TD></TR></TABLE>Well you're right on the first too parts. I've never been a tech and i have no clue as to how the system works because i do all my work myself. (Not being definisive, just stating a fact)

But regardless, your argument of charging ppl alot because they get the job done right the first time is rediculous. The job SHOULD be done right the first time, in ANY field of work.


Modified by litterbox at 8:32 AM 10/3/2005

 

i totally 100% agree with you that the job should be done right the first time ,, but that does not always happen,,,,,,,i guess that/s what makes us human we do err from time to time ,,the key is to minimizes those mistakes to next to none ..but when u do 10-15 car a day each day ..something to some tech will come back and it could be as little as not tighting up a bolt, a loose vacc hose .most mistakes happen because of lack of attention and not lack of experience .....

 

those 4 bolts at the front of the hub/rotor assembly was the must impossible pieces of ***** for me. i got 2 out of the 8 out with my impact wrench. the thing laughed at the impact. took the whole assembly off and took it to a shop because i figured my impact just sucked and thats why i couldnt take it off. they couldnt with there impact wrench either. they ended up chiseling the bolts loss and i just got new bolts.


in theory it shouldnt be a hard job.